I do not think i posted correctly. I was wanting to know what you mean by one of the resistors may be "open". Does that mean burned? I also dont know what you mean by one "leg" of the resistor. Is there some way that i can tell that it is bad? I take it that they do not turn black. Sorry for the confusion but this is not like a typical forum and i can not tell if you got any of my other messages.
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Re: your reply to my 43h70 problem
When a resistor goes open it means the resistor has no "continuity" or resistance and must be replaced. Lifting a leg means remove one end of the resistor from the circuit by heating the solder and pulling the end out and checking it with a ohms meter if it doesnt register then its open and needs replacing.
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I don't think you get how this site works. You are not talking to the same expert that answered your original question. Heck, i don't even know your original question. When you post something in that box, Your post gets thrown into a "pool" from which experts can pick and choose at their leisure. Now, when you look at this post, click the "reply" link, post your original question, and i may be able to help you.
Along with the convergence IC’s there will also be some associated components that will need to be replaced as well. There are some resistors that are part of the convergence circuit that will be open and need to be replaced. Most likely these will appear charred in the center. If you have an Ohm Meter or a DVM, check all the resistors that are close to the IC’s and you should be looking for either ones that have opened or have changed values.
If one of the convergence IC’s are found to be bad, I would replace them both, if one has gone bad the other may go soon. I usually order my parts from Andrews Electronics in California, they will have the OEM components that you will need. Their site is http://www.andrewselectronics.com/welcome.aspx And their phone number is a 24-Hour Order Desk: (800) 274-4666 I recommend the phone order so you can talk to the person about the different types of IC’s that are available.
I would also advise that the convergence IC’s be OEM or better, just because they are cheap does not mean that they are a good deal. I have seen the cheap IC’s fail after a short time, even though they look exactly like the OEM IC’s. I think that the bottom line is that you will get what you pay for when it comes to the parts.
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Near the middle of the chassis inside you should see two large metal heat sinks---the chips(2) are black and about 2 1/2 inches wide x 1 1/2 inches tall and should have the STK-392-110 NUMBER printed on them in white.
The hard part of this is first you have to unplug several cables so you can get the entire chassis tilted up so the bottom of the boards face the back of the set. You have to unsolder all 18 pins on each chip AND 4 metal pins on each heat sink--when you replace the chips(apply heat sink grease to them) the hard part is getting all the pins on the chips and the pins for the heat sinks lined up so they go back into the board.
Then holding a heat sink and chip in place solder each chip/heat sink back in.
IT IS A VERY GOOD IDEA WHEN YOU REMOVE THE CHIPS TO CHECK ALL THE DARK GREY RESISTORS AROUND THEM---most are 1.8 ohm 2 watt---they can be checked like checking a fuse--if one of them is open you will still have the same problem if you do not find and replace it---they are protect parts---if one is open--one of the chips got it.
After you replace you can go into the TECH menu and fine adjust the convergence--you can do the same in the customer menu but the TECH menu offers more places to adjust and saves these adjustments---I have instructions for getting into that menu if you need them.
If you can do the repair yourself you can save a lot of money as most shops get 300 or more for this type of repair--a pair of the chips can be bought on Ebay for about 12 dollars plus shipping.
If you have any questions or need advice reply to this posting here.
I made a couple videos about reading and testing resistors. Keep in mind, if you're reading a resistor while it's still in the circuit, it might not read the value that it says on the resistor because of the circuit it's in. While in circuit it can only read the value of the resistor or less. If it reads more ohms while in circuit, then the resistor is probably open. My meter reads OUCH when it's open and 0 when it's shorted.
That would be the convcergence ICs and feed resistors that need replacement. Can you reply to this same post and verify that your model is the R56W36? I will then post the correct ICs and feed resistors for your model as well as a link where you can get replacement ICs and resistors with free instalation instructions with pictures.
Did you check the resistors that power the ICs ocasionally 1 or 2 of them will go open when the ICs go out. They are located right next to the ics. Remove one leg of the resistors out of circuit, you will no doubt find one or two that are open and need to be replaced.
IF your model is the 55PW9363 those resistors should be 6.8 ohms like the other ones. i would put in the ones the service manual lists as those other resistors may have been close but burned out causing the ICs to be over worked.