The round ball in the ball valve is leaking and I've been told the whole piece needs replacing. How do you "unscrew" it from the filter? It is an older model and I don't think there's a wrench made big enough to get it off.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: How do you get the Trimline Ball Valve off?
First if it isn't cracked you should be able to remove the screws from the top and replace gaskets inside. There are two types the clamp ones and the threaded ones. The threads get difficult with plastic on plastic (or fiberglass) and sand in the threads. If it is indeed no longer of any use, thread a piece of 1-1/2" pipe in the vale openings. Apply some type of lube to soak into the threads. Get an assistant to hold the filter , while you use that pipe as a large wrench to remove valve. REMEMBER LEFTY LOOSEY. That valve will be rather expensive,and not easy to locate. Try repairing it first.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Most toilet tank troubles can be traced to a faulty flush valve. You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1) repair the old flush valve; (2) replace the flush ball with a more modern flapper or install a glued-in replacement flapper; (3) or install a new flush valve.
These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more simple adjustments were discussed previously.
Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted with deposits, replace it with a new one. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 wet-or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be replaced.
You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.
Flapper. To replace a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe. Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet operation.
A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replacement trip handle.
Glue-in repair kit. Many replacement flush valves simply glue in place on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are available, not every type of flush can be replaced by these devices.
On single-piece toilet tanks–with a flush valve held in place with flanges that fit inside the opening–the flapper-ball may bind and prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets, this problem does not occur.
Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.
Ristrict the flow of water thru even more...We've put a tee in a line then a stubby piece of PCV into a ball valve then another stub about 6 inches long and a cap. Tie the inlet line into this stub and partially close the ball valve.
When the tank is full and leaking into the bowl reach in and put slight pressure on the flapper and if the leak stops then you may have the wrong flapper or the flapper is not installed properly. If that is not the case then make sure the flush valve seat is not cracked or that the surface is not warped.
The suction tube connects to a small brass piece that has a ball valve. When pump pushes water down hose, it creates suction on the ball valve. The ball valve has to be the right size. Too large, no suction, too small, no suction. The entire world of electronics is based on similar principle.
When the ball valve wears out, or gets clogged, the pump pressure is not able to lift fluid. Try cleaning valve, but my bet is you need a new part with the ball valve.
Check if air is actually leaking from the plunger valve. (check with soapy water) If leaking from plunger valve check outer orings to cylinder guide and cylinder plate. Small cuts to these orings will cause leak by trigger. If trigger is actually leaking then replace vinyl ball and rubber seat. Good luck with your repair and post again if you have other questions.
First of all, your shut off must be defective. Secondly, if you have the ball float style toilet valve, try lifting up on ball, and see if that stops the flow. If it does, there is adjustment there at end by valve, you can tighten screw. If that doesn't do it, you can carefully bend rod attached to valve with ball on end, by holding it at both ends of the rod itself, and bend it downward. If either doesn't stop the flow, you probably need a new tank valve, such as one in picture that I use quite often. Easy to replace, works good, but you will need to get that water shut off at some other location if that shut-off is not working right.This might be a good time to replace that as well.