Question about Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

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Biggt----can you help? A200

Can you guide me with testing my motor with a resistance test?? Not sure if that is what to do to test. Thanks in advance. Reg.

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What is your symptom?

Basically, you need to check both start and run windings for continuity.

If you have a mechanical start switch, (likely), you can simply ohm out at the power cord end, hot to neutral, power switch on, and check for continuity. Then manually open the contacts on the start switch and look for a small increase in your ohms. I don't know the exact numbers, but I would expect under 10 ohms.

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

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Beatriz, I looked through the entire manual, it shows no reverse option. Did you just get the mixer or did you have it repaired. It seams the mixer is either wired wrong or the gears that rotate the mixer were not assembled correctly.
Check the attached link,manual,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

https://my.hobartcorp.com/kroger/TechnicalServiceManuals/A200%20Technical%20Manual.pdf

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If the gearing is all free to move and you replaced the motor capacitor that only leaves the motor. If you can remove the motor and test it "out of the gearing" that would confirm it. You have wired the capacitor correctly and used the correct one? Just asking! Are you sure the gearing isn't jammed up?

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There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

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1 Answer

Have a A200 Mixer, when turned on, you have to spin it by hand then it runs fine. Whats wrong


The answer is clearly in the starting circuit which doesn't have too many parts, but depends on the type of starting circuit your mixer uses (electronic or mechanical start switch). I'm assuming your mixer isn't very old, as the old units used brushed motors which did not have starting circuits.

The parts of the starting circuit are the motor start winding, the start capacitor and the start switch (probably electronic in your case which is a small silver box with four wire terminals on it). The capacitor should be tested with a multimeter after verifying it's not holding a charge (check with multimeter set to DC Volts, mixer unplugged, should read zero volts).
Start winding should be tested with the meter to measure ohms. Locate the wires leading to the motor (hopefully only three wires) and you should get a reading for all three combinations of measurements (wire 1-to-wire 2, 2-to-3, 1-to-3) if meter indicates open on any of these, motor stator is bad(this is pretty rare and quite expensive).
Electronic start switches are not very simple to test, but if the capacitor and motor test out OK with the meter, and all the wiring is intact (look closely for loose wires, burned wires, poorly crimped terminals, etc.) then it must be the start switch.

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1 Answer

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