We moved the ground wire for the stereo, and now the amp will not come back on. What could be the problem? We used a test light on the remote wire and other wires and we are getting power. when you turn the car on the red light comes on and goes right back off. Please help
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Re: amp will not come back on
Try moving the ground wire back where it was and see if it works again. Most likely you have a bad ground. Try grounding your amplifier to your back seat mounting bolts if all possible. Try scraping the location 'til you see metal before you ground your amp as well. Hope this helps!
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Check the wires at the amp. Make sure that the wires are neatly bundled and clean cut when connecting them, a stray wire may be going under one of the connections from the battery input to the ground input of the amp, there for causing a direct short and blowing the fuse. I am assuming you mean that the amp's fuse is blowing. Get yourself a test light and test the wires for power. battery power?(12V) is always on and remote power(12V) comes on only when the radio is on(it should be the blue wire in color). Then make sure you have a very good ground, I always use the seat belt bolt or car seat bolt(direct to chassis). If you checked all these steps with no luck then the culprit may be your amp.
OK ! FIRST THINGS FIRST. DID U TEST THE AMP FIST. BEFORE U STARTED INSTALLING RCA CABLES,AND REMOTE WIRES. LETS DO THAT FIRST.GRAB YOUR AMP.SET IT ON YOU WORK BENCH ,TABLE,OR CHAIR.THEN GET (2)PIEACES OF #10 OR #12 WIRE W/1 OF THE WIRES HAVING A 20AMP FUSEABLE LINK ON IT.NOW THE WIRE W/THE FUSEABLE LINK ON IT.CONN THE REMOTE(REM) AND THE 12v + ON THE AMP AND HOOK THEM BOTH TOGETHER ON 1 SIDE OF THAT FUSEABLE LINK WIRE. AND THE OTHER WIRE HOOK IT UP THE - GROUND SIDE OF THE AMP .NOW PICK UP YOUR AMP OPEN UP YOUR HOOD.MAKING SURE THAT NO WIRES OR THE AMP IS TOUCHING THE + 12V OF THE BATTERY. NOW CONN YOUR GROUND TO GROUND AND THE FUSEABLE LINK ON THE +12v SIDE OF THE BATTERY.NOW THE AMP SHOULD HAVE CAME ON. LOOK 4 A SOLID RED LIGHT OR ANY SIGNS OF A SOLID LIGHT THAT HAD CAME ON.
Your amp needs to be connected to your stereo via rca to the rca jacks in the back of the stereo then connect the remote wire to the remote wire in the back of your stereo it should be blue with a remote flag on it. after that you need to ground the amp and run a wire to the positive terminal on the battery. make sure you install a fuse on the wire in between the battery and the amp.
Try moving the speaker -( ground) from the output of the stereo to the chassis ground - in other words, the speaker - from the wire harness needs to be connected to the chassis ground, making sure it is not connected to the harness - just the speaker. Just try 1 speaker to see if it works or not. If the unit lights up and all the functions seem to work properly but no matter what you cannot get sound out - including the test outlined here then you may possibly have an internal amp blown or another component on the circuit board of the stereo which could happen if the power / ground leads touched or were hooked up backwards. If it's new I'd take it back - if not ( or purchased used and no hope of getting your money back ) you may be able to take it to a stereo repair shop for repair. Hope this helps and good luck!!!
The process is pretty much straight forward for any amp.
This is what you will need to get the job done:
15 ft- 4 gauge power wire (RED) with in-line fuse
3 ft - 4 Guage Ground wire (Brown)
15 ft - 12-16 Gauge Remote wire (Blue)
15 ft - RCA Wires
Here are the steps:
BATT - (Battery +12v) - This will be a 4 guage red wire that you will run directly from your car battery to this Terminal. Be sure to buy a wire a with an inline fuse. This is the main power supply to your amp. Be careful 12 volts doesn't sound like much till you see it in action. I would do this wire last, last thing you want is a hot wire accidentally touching some bare metal.
GND - (Ground Wire) - This is the terminal you will use to ground the AMP. Run a 4 guage wire from this terminal and fasten it to some bare metal in your trunk. Not more than three feet.
RCOM/Remote - There will be a small gauge wire from the back of your stereo that will be the remote wire it will be blue, most stereos have this wire labeled. Its purpose is to send a signal to the amp to turn on when the radio is powered on.
RCA Wires - The location for these is not pictured above, on the back of your stereo there will be amp outputs. Your stereo will send all your low frequencies (Bass) to your amp using these wires. On the amp you will see where these wires will go. They are essential to have a system.
The best way to go about this is hook up the power, ground, and remote and test the Amp to see if it powers up. I have seen so many of my friends skip this step and they paid for it later.
I hope this helps if you need any more help let me know.
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Car Audio Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Orange Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Light Green Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
In Car Amplifiers have 3 main power wires: Live +12v (Fused wire direct from the + side of the cars battery)
Ground (Direct to car earthing point (anywhere cleaned of paint for good connection)(I tend to use boot lock)
Remote (This wire should be connected with the switched live wire coming from the back of the stereo, this is Only live when the cars ignition is on)(there should be 2 power wires coming from the stereo usuallyredlive +12v and yellowswitched live, depending on the cars original wiring, try moving the remote wire from where you have it, to the other live wire
12 VOLT FROM THE BATTERY SOURCE GOES TO 12VOLT BATT CONNECTION.12 VOLT GROUND RETURN MUST BE FIXED TO THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE.SOME VEHICLES HAVE FACTORY GROUNDS UP HIGH ON THE SIDES OF MOST VEHICLES, U CAN USE THIS GROUND LOCATION. IF CONNECT REMOTE WIRE FROM THE RADIOS REMOTE TURN ON LEAD WHICH IS A BLUE/WHITE WIRE OR A STANDARD BLUE IF ITS JUST ONE BLUE WIRE. CONNECT THIS LEAD TO THE REMOTE TURN ON CONNECTION ON THE AMP , SOME KENWOODS HAVE TWO ,INPUT AND OUTPUT LEADS.U ALSO NEED A TEST LIGHT, OR U CAN USE A SPEAKER TO TEST FOR POWER AT UR CONNECTION.IF U USE A TEST LIGHT , CLAMP THE END U WOULD GROUND TO THE VEHICLE, TO THE AMPS GROUND, THEN TOUCH THE PROBE END OF THE TEST LIGHT TO UR WIRED CONNECTION TO VERIFY U HAVE POWER AND GROUND TO YOUR CONNECTION.IF TEST LIGHT DOESN'T WORK ,CHECK UR FUSE AND REMOTE TURN OR LEADS.