Kenmore dryer works, but getting no heat (electric dryer)
I have a Kenmore Electric dryer Model # 11066812694. It will not get hot. Everything is functional but the heating mechanism. I removed the two screws from the top lint screen, as well as the panel from the back. I vacuumed the lint trap and the air wheel. I have removed the thermal fuse as suggested in a previous posting. Which seems simple enough for a woman to do. :) Now, I'm ready to go to have the part tested for functionality. In the event that it is not the thermal fuse, how do I get to the heater element and is it going to be more difficult to replace? Because I honestly think that this has been way too easy and I have a feeling that I am in for a big surprise!
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You will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel to access. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the right-hand side of the dryer (facing from the back). Simply disconnect, the wires leads and remove the mounting screws to remove.
Now...you mentioned removing the thermal fuse. Did you check the thermal cut-out or the hi-limit thermostat? These components are small silver disc-shaped devices mounted on the heater box assembly. As you are facing the back of the dryer, the hi-limit thermostat is located near the terminal connections of the heating element. The thermal cut-out is located farthest away from the heating element closer to the top of the heater box. Usually when you have a no heat problem, it the thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, or heating element that goes bad. If the thermal fuse is bad, you generally have a dryer that not only won't heat, but won't even turn on. I hope I'm not confusing you. In a nut shell, there's a difference between the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. If you had large accumulations of lint in your dryer, I would bet you have a blown thermal cut-out.
If you wish to check the parts listing yourself to make sure you have the correct parts, go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading. The thermal cut-out kit is what you need to order for a no heat problem. It's listed as item #1 (part #279816). This also includes the hi-limit thermostat. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace BOTH of these components at the same time. The heating element is listed as item #14 (part #279838).
Look under the "view diagram" heading and you can see where all these components are located, using the exploded view of the dryer assembly. The thermal fuse you mention is listed as item #59 in the drawing and is located on the air baffle housing.
This is still an easy fix. I just want to make sure you're identifying the correct parts. I don't think you want to purchase parts you don't need.
I hope this helps you. If I've managed to confuse you, please post back with your questions and I can guide you in the right direction.
Posted on Apr 16, 2008
Sounds like you have done your homework and have become well aquainted with the inner workings of your dryer. To rule out the possibility of you doing anything wrong, go back and doublecheck to make sure your terminals are all connected properly and make sure all the terminal lugs are snug and not loose. The burning odor that you mentioned can occur when the dryer has been off for a while and if you have been cleaning lint (which you stated you have been doing). As careful as you may have been in your cleaning efforts, lint and dust gets blown around and resettles. It is common for dust to settle on the heating element and burn off. Try running the dryer for a few minutes with the back removed to see if the smell dissipates. It should go away after a while. This will also give you the opportunity to inspect the dryer operation to make sure you don't have any obvious signs of any malfunctions. CAUTION: Stay away from the back of the dryer with the back removed and the dryer plugged in. I think you're smart enough to figure out that there are dangerous voltage potentials present. NOTE: It is also normal for the heating element to cycle on and off. It should not be glowing continuously. Please post back if you have any further questions.
...and you are a real trooper. You are an inspiration to all Moms that want to learn how to fix it themselves. Glad I could help you.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Hi,
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
heatman101
Apr 13, 2011 | Kenmore 64742 Electric Dryer
Oct 26, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers
Hi,
If you are having problems with your
gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor
goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working
properly.
if
you dryer is gas check out this gas
no heat
tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can
have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to
heat.
check
out this electric
no heat
tip...
heatman101
May 15, 2010 | Kenmore 83142 Electric Dryer
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How to Replace Your Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, or Kitchenaid. Electric Dryer's Heating Element ... 3 styles of heating elements in use for these dryers. ...www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm - Cached
How to article - how to replace the heating element in a whirlpool dishwasher. When your dishwasher heating element goes bad, your dishes will not dry quickly. Before...ehow.com/how_5337380_replace-heating-element-whirlpool-di...
How to article - how to replace the heating element in a whirlpool oven. If the lower heating element in your Whirlpool oven no longer gets hot, or if you nOct 15, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers
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The information that you gave me was very helpful. I bought the kit and I installed the thermal cutoff as well as the thermostat. I followed the directions to the best of my ability. I know the difference between the male/female components, but it got a little confusing when it advised me if the was 3/16" terminal connected to the direct connect thermostat then on end of the jumper wire must be cut off. Woooo...I am out of breath. I connected the red jumper wire to the harness and the other end to the thermostat. The previous thermostat(#34) had red wires connected to the other prongs(2)so I reconnected those. The Thermal fuse(#59) has 2 blue wires and the Thermal Internal bias(#42) has 2 red and 2 violet wires attached. After installing these new parts, should it smell as if something is burning? I do not see smoke, but it smells. I flipped the breaker and unplugged it immediately. What did I do wrong? Please help!
Thank you very much for all of help! I read your article on driers and it was awesome. You are the man!
I have a Sears Kenmore 70 series that will not get hot when trying to dry my clothes?????
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