Question about Bose LifeStyle 5 Series-III CD Shelf System
This unit is dead, no lights, no display, nothing. External Power supply replaced, still dead!!! Does anyone have a circuit diagram for this unit?
I just went through a similar problem. Everything on the LifeStyle 5 receiver worked fine but no display. Mine is the version "2V" as shown on the serial number label on the bottom. I just replaced the C17 capacitor with a 47uF / 35V one from Radio Shack. For those of you who have been searching for a solution you've probably noticed that for the other console version you'll either have to replace the C16 or C19. For myself on the "2V" version it was the C17.
Note, I have never really done anything electrical like this before and it IS possible to do yourself (actually helps if you have a second set of hands at times).
Supplies from Radio Shack -
Here's what I did....
1. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel with a philips head screwdriver.
2. Remove the main cover (non-cd side). Use a small flathead screwdriver to push in the 3 gray tabs on the back panel and lift up so that it prys open toward the front of the unit. Take this main cover off.
3. Remove the cover on the cd side. Use that small flathead screwdriver to push in the 2 black tabs on the back panel and lift up so that it prys open toward the front of the unit. Take this cd cover off. Both top covers should now be off so you're looking at the circuit boards.
4. Remove the top circuit board. It is just held in by a few tabs. Note, I didn't disconnect any wires, ribbons, etc. I just removed the circuit board from the tabs that keep it secure and let it rest loosely on top.
5. Remove the bottom circuit board. I found this to be the trickiest step and needed an extra set of hands to hold up the top circuit board while I worked my fingers around the bottom circuit board to release it from the tabs. I also used pens (hey, at least I'm honest) as levers to keep the bottom circuit board from falling back down and getting re-secured by the tabs. Part of my problem was not recognizing there was an additional tab in the middle of the circuit board holding it down. Just be patient and keep working it. Probably took me like 10-15 minutes just to get this board removed from the tabs. Again, like the top circuit board, I didn't disconnnect any wires, ribbons, etc. I just removed the circuit board from the tabs that keep it secure.
6. Remove the C17 capacitor. Flip over the bottom circuit board and double check to make sure you're about to remove the correct capacitor. The C17 is located near the bottom left of the circuit board. (Someone else gave me the tip to make sure that when I put in the new capacitor I had the proper polarity. I'll revisit this in the next step, but at the time I was about to remove the existing C17 I just put a mark on the outside of the capacitor so I knew how it was aligned on the board. I used copper desolder braid and the soldering iron to remove the solder from the existing capacitor. I then just pulled the existing capactor out and the holes in the circuit board looked clear.
7. Install the new C17 capacitor. I noticed that the capacitors had a different color vertical band on them. Right or wrong, I used this as a guide for me to determine the polarity when installing the new one. I just put the new one in the same way as the old one (with respect to where this different colored band was and the mark I had made on the old one) and pulled the leads through the holes in the circuit board until it seemed tight enough against the circuit board. I bent the leads back (but not broken off) to hold it in place while I soldered the connection. Once I finished soldering the connection I cut off the excess from the leads with wire cutters.
8. Test the display. You don't need to re-secure the circuit boards to test it out. I believe I just flipped it over and connected the FM antenna and the AC power cords to their respective connections in the back and it worked!
9. Reassemble the console. This was much easier than the disassembly and was essentially the steps above in reverse order. Just put the bottom circuit board back in and secure it with the tabs (including the one in the center). Then do the same for the top circuit board. Put the cd cover back on until it snaps into the tabs. Do the same for the main cover. Put the 4 screws back in and you're done! Good luck!
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
I have a PDF Service Manual for this model, complete with PCB layout and circuit diagrams. Please contact me.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
Thanks David_77, I just replaced my C19 225v 33uf with a 167v 33uf and everything works like a champ. Bose wanted $250 to look at it. I also replaced the ac plug in because one of the terminals broke off making for intermittent power
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
I had the same problem and just fixed it using David_77's advice. The difference was that my PC board was a newer revision level so the capacitor that needed changing was C17. It was the only 33uF/63V capacitor on the board. There was no visible damage to the cap, but it had degraded to a value of around 7uF. In the picture posted by craftsmen22, C17 is shown as the bottom-most capacitor on the left side. Thanks for the advice David_77!
Posted on Nov 21, 2008
Hello and thanks for the help. I just replaced my C16 33uF 63v to a 47uF 35V capacitor. i can now see the display but the parts of the display that is not supposed to be turned an i can see at about 50% brightness. In other words I can see everything (cd, video, tape, disk, random, Am, fm, random, etc.) all at the same time. I think the 47uF 35V is too strong. Can anyone recommend an alternative. Should I just try and find an original 33uF 63v replacement?
Posted on Jul 26, 2010
C19 on mine. Rather than easter egg around, I used a multi-meter on volts AC range and checked all the electrolytics. C19 had 13 VAC on it, while all others were 1 volt or less. Didn't have a replacement 33uf 25V handy, but I did have three 10uf 25V. Three in parallel is 30uf. I actually prefer the lower brightness of 20uf, so I only installed two. Not a bad day overall. Purchased the whole system with subwoofer and two satellite speakers on Craigslist for $100. Works perfectly now. Now I only need a cheap bluetooth adapter and I'm in the modern era.
Posted on Nov 30, 2015
Thanks for a great description. I cheated ? bit and wiggled the c17 intill the legs broke and welded from the top. Took 10 minutes to fix.
Posted on Aug 25, 2015
I have an old LS5 and experience a humming sound in the background only when i am on the radio. Anyone get this problem, humming only when radio but no such problem when you are on CD or AUX?
Please send me the service manual.
Thank you in advance.
Posted on Aug 25, 2012
I had the same problem with no display and found this thread (thanks for the info!). In my case, it was the capacitor that needed changing was C16, 100uF/25v. I replaced it with 100uF/35v I found at Radio Shack. Now I have the display back.
The only problem I still have is, once it's turned off, it doesn't remember the radio station it was on before. Is this normal?
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
You are a god send. I cost me 0.44 for the cap plus 5.40 shipping was simple and fixed the problem.
Now can anyone tell me how to get at Dolby 5.1 surround upgrade for it? :-)
Thanks so much.
Posted on Aug 15, 2008
Thanks for all of the information..Still took a lot of thinking..My system is up and running perfectly. I fixed the display problem very easily. The speaker output...and the R428 resistor problem was another fiasco though. The PDF file you sent of the bottom of the main circuit board wasn't opening correctly so I had to figure out from the description of the output connector to the resistor...what baffeled me was the ohms on the resistor was correct. I took a 35 mm lense and turned it backwards and magnified the resistor and found that at some point someone had changed the resistor and did a poor job soldering. I carefully resoldered the ends of the resistor and wala...All is working well....If anyone else does this I have a pic of the circuit where the resistor is located. If the techs on this site need it I can send ..also when you disconnect the 3 cables to remove the circuit cards two of them are interchangable....mark them!!
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
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