Question about Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier
You have to go through an authorized dealer to get service from JL. Most good repair shops can repair most problems with them.
Before you send it off, confirm that you have good DC voltage at the remote and B+ terminals.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 07, 2015 | Kenwood Car Audio & Video
Feb 12, 2012 | Car Audio & Video
1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm - 4 ohm (11V-14.5V)
THD at Rated Power:
<0.05% @ 4 ohm
>95dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
5 Hz - 250 Hz (+0, -1dB)
>500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz
According to the chart your amp is only stable down to 1.5 Ohms, so running at .75 Ohms the noise you are hearing is the amp clipping (running more power than it can handle at low ohms)
I would suggest wiring it in series, or you could adjust the gain on the amp until the popping goes away.
Hope this helps.
Nov 10, 2010 | Jl Audio 13W7 Car Subwoofer
Jun 09, 2009 | Jl Audio 1000/1 Car Audio Amplifier
Mar 07, 2009 | Jl Audio 1000/1 Car Audio Amplifier
Feb 25, 2009 | Pioneer DEH-P4000UB CD Player
Jan 17, 2009 | Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier
Jan 09, 2008 | Jl Audio 300/4 Car Audio Amplifier
It sounds like you have a broken output filter inductor in the amplifier. You should be aware that the speaker outputs of the amp are biased at ~40v DC and can give a good shock if you touch the speaker wire while you're grounded (touching the body of the vehicle).
When you connected the speaker as you did, I would have expected the speaker to move in or out and remain there while the wire was connected to the housing of the amp. I'll assume that the amp was screwed down to the chassis of the vehicle. If it wasn't, you may have more than one problem.
Oct 18, 2007 | Jl Audio 300/4 Car Audio Amplifier
74 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!