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You just have to figure out how to remove everything necessary from the front of the dash, so you can actually get at the gauges.
It's just the trim piece first, plastic clips or screws. Now remember,if you were trying to remove the dash cluster, it would come out just the same way. You just need to get to it, not remove it. t should be pretty easy to figure out. Phillips head and/or 1/4 inch head sockets for screws and small bolts. Some are 5/16ths.
depends upon what vehicle your dealing with, if it`s a rear wheel drive V6-V8 vehicles, usualy you can get to them easier thru the wheel well. Front wheel drive V6-V8 vehicles are easy for front of vehicle access, and under vehicle access to get at the ones facing towards the rear of the vehicle.
Undo the top two screws on each side of the back of the door and all the ones across the top edge. Then the panel can be manouvered away from the door. The catch mechanism tends to hold the panel back and there is only just enough free length on the wiring to pull the panel away a couple of inches, but it's enough to access the on/off switch and control module.
Hi, To fit the belt to your dryer you will need to remove the top of the appliance by removing the screws at the rear. Pull of the timer/control knob. Look inside the top of the t/dryer behind the control panel you will see little plastic stems which are attached to the facia panel. You need to knock these out to remove the facia. Once this is off then you can remove the the top 3 screws and the bottom 3 screws the front panel will now come off for you to place the belt on the drum and over the motor spindle. Becareful as the t/dryer will be very loose and will twist. it is easier to lay the appilance down on its back to stop everything falling about. Now you can put it back together in the reverse order....
Here is my own solution...
Disconnect from mains (of course)
remove top (2 screws at back near top)
Unplug electric connectors (on back panel, top RHS). Make sure note what goes where!
Lie unit down on front
remove screws (2) holding the drum spindle cover (centre of back) and remove cover
pop off the circlip holding drum spindle, and washer
unscrew back panel - hex headed screws round outside of back
Remove screws at bottom of back panel which screw into the plastic vent housing (3 I think)
Lift whole back off. (there's a plastic lip at bottom - need to pull away from this a bit) The drum spindle will be unsupported now, so don't move unit
Full access now to drum and motor beneath
Get and put on new belt
Actually, having got into unit, found could not get belt from local spares shop (it had closed down), so bought new drier!
Underneath. Don't see original post here, but to replace a pump (actually, just the pump motor) on an LG front load washer: Drain water out of small hose inside recess and remove access door cover (at lower left of machine). Remove one phillips head screw and use a plastic putty knife or similar tool to push in on left or right side of recess to remove the plastic recess cup. Now remove the two other phillips head screws visible. Tilt machine back and access pump Assembly from under machine. There is a tab that you will have to work loose. Disconnect electrical wires from pump at disconnect plug. You probably want to remove the hoses going to and away from the pump (squeeze clamps). Pump motor is easy to change out now with three more phillips head screws.
Simple, you don't! Remove the passenger's side front tire and there is a little door from which you access the battery.
Actually, you do need to remove it. You can't access the terminal posts
or the tie-down bracket from the access door. The good news is the
process is straightforward, and you don't need to remove the tire.
First, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. From
here you can remove the six screws holding in the battery access panel.
Next, open the hood, unclip the air filter housing and remove
the filter. It helps to get the cover up and out of the way by using a
spare piece of wire and attaching it to the hood.
Now, you're ready to remove the air filter housing. On the
right side of the housing (facing the car) you'll notice a fastener
with no apparent means of removal. This is a friction grommet, akin to
the snaps on a baby's shirt. Grip the housing right above this fastener
and give it a firm pull upwards. The housing should pop out over the
fastener. The left side is not fastened - there are two "bumpers" that
hold it in place on that side.
Now you have complete access to the battery and can proceed
with the replacement, sliding the battery out through the access door
once it's been disconnected.
Finally, it's much easier to re-install the battery access door
from the top, before re-installing the air filter housing. It's
possible, but not easy from down below.