Question about GE PSW23PSRSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Defrost controle How do you get the controle into a manul defrost to check out the board.

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Caint do it you can read the defrost circuit easyier by going into the freezer and ohming out the heater, btw the stat that is on the evaperator coil will read contunity up to 145 f it is not a bi-metal it is a over temp sensor
if you have a defrost issue check the heater of ok then go to the sensor also located on the evap coil
if it reads contunity then mother board located on the back of the ref






































Posted on Apr 17, 2008

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I have a GE Profile refrigerator model #PFSSPKXBSS and the front control panel gets frozen. The only time I can change the settings is when the display panel goes haywire and starts changing all the...


solenoid for the ice dispenser flopper might get rusted, so the flop door would not close and freezer air would escape building up ice. need new solenoid assy for ice dispenser door and possible flopper.

Mar 27, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

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Fixya manuals


It doesn't defrost
  1. Defrost control board
If the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  1. Defrost timer
If the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  1. Defrost heater assembly
If your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  1. Defrost sensor with fuse
Another possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.
Defrost drain problems
  1. Clogged or freezing defrost drain
If you are experiencing defrost drain issues, it is possibly due to a clogged or freezing drain that is blocking water flow to the bottom of the freezer. This will cause the defrost water to drain and drip down to the bottom of the freezer section. To correct this issue, thaw any ice or remove debris that could be causing the clogged drain or replace the drain heater.
  1. Drain heater
If you are experiencing defrost drain problems, inspect the defrost drain heater. A dislocated or burnt out drain heater will result in the drain tube freezing over. Attempt to return the part to the designated position or replace the damaged part to correct the issue. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Sep 06, 2014 | GE Monogram ZIRS36NM 36'' Stainless All...

1 Answer

Samsung refrigerator defrost problem


Check the defrost drain hose. If it is plugged, the water from defrosting has no place to go, so defrosting doesn't do much.

Also, make sure you have power to the defrosting circuit (you may have a problem with the wiring). The simplest and safest means is to do a continuity check of the wires between the control board and heater with the refrigerator unplugged, or unplug the heater connection to the control board and measure the resistance of the heater through the connector(s). If it is open or very high, examine the wire terminals for corrosion. If the defrost control board is separate from the rest of the refrigerator control system, check for power coming into the board.

May 12, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Neff integrated fridge freezer


test this steps and fix it, use the VOM. God bless you

  1. Defrost control boardIf the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  2. Main control boardA possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  3. Defrost timerIf the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  4. Defrost heater assemblyIf your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  5. Defrost thermostatAnother cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  6. Defrost sensor with fuseAnother possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/refrigerator-repair-help.html#9#ixzz2aX5nUL00
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 30, 2013 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I cant locate the defrost timer on my amana AFD2535FES. my freezer is cold but the fridge isn't


Hello,
That model refrig. does not use older style parts sorry their is no defrost timer. What is uses is a control board to turn on the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board check the defrost heater and thermostat first. Check both defrost heater and defrost thermostat first using a meter to check continuty on both of them. If either the defrost heater or t-stat dont hav econtinuty they will be the problem. If both check good the control should be replaced. These pictures show where the defrost heater and thermostat are while or model will look different the location of them will be very similar RMOSTAT IT MUST BE COLD SO CHECK IT WHILE FROST IS BUILT UP AROUND IT.oldtech2332_11.jpgoldtech2332_12.jpg

Aug 16, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Maytag PTB21BBGRB problem with refrigerator being too warm (58 degrees). Freezer is working. We have vacuumed the condenser fan & the fan is moving.


First look into rear of freezer on backwall for a layer of frost. If you find frost then the next step is to check the defrost timer found inside fresh food section Click here=> PTB21BBGRB Control Panel part #12 in large view is the defrost timer. There maybe a plastic plug below the control panel that you may pry away for you to manulally turn slowly clockwise until it clicks and the defrost will take place. If that works the the defrost timer part number is Click Here=> 68233-3 or here=> www.pcappliancerepair.com
that also offers solutions to their customers. On some service manuals contact Appliance911seabreeze.com If that does not work fo you then please let me know so we move to the next step. Thanks Sea Breeze

Aug 09, 2010 | Maytag MSD2734GE Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

No cooling or compressor operation


Compressor and evap fan cycling are controlled by a circuit board as well as the defrost. It is all in serie - once your defrost kicks in contact is cut from the evap fan and compressor - once defrost is finished the switch reverts back to normal operation and your evap fan & compressor turns on.

Most common causes of this issue is either a defrost timer fault or control board (burnt resistor or bad board).

Inspecting and changing the control board will usually fix the issue - if your evap fan comes on after changing the board but not the compressor then you have a bad compressor.

If you have one of those units like some whirlpool/Kenmore/Inglis that have electronic controls in the refrigerator section, this is the board that controls the thermostat and compressor on/off cycling. The board behind your freezer is also connected to the board in your fridge, this one controls the defrost.

Sep 27, 2009 | Amana Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a GE GSS201EMAWW that won't defrost, is it most likely the board or heater ??


http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
^ ^ ^
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

Jul 09, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Apr 17, 2009 | GE GSS23SGSSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

1 Answer

MAYTAG MSD2656DEB DEFROST CONTROL


There is no forced defrost entry for your refrig. Yours has a ADC board in the upper right corner of the control area in the refrig section. The only way to initate defrost is jump the terminals on the board. Look at the wiring diagram closely before making the jump. The board energizes the heater thru the neutral side so make sure you dont jump line to this. I believe you jump L2 to Def

Dec 02, 2007 | Refrigerators

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