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Luckily that is pretty easy with modern motherboards.
1. Remove power and unplug all devices hooked to computer. 2. Open case. 3. Write down the location and orientation of all wires connecting to old motherboard. 4. Disconnect all wires from the case that are plugged into old motherboard. 5. Uncrew the screws holding the motherboard in the case. 6. Carefully remove old motherboard. 7. Install new motherboard and secure it to the case (probably using the same screws as the old MB) 8. Refer to diagram you made earlier to plug in all the wires to the proper places in the new motherboard. 9. Check and make sure the new motherboard works before closing the case. 10. If everything is working correctly, close up the case and you are done.
Several things to try: Open the case and identify the two pronged connector for the power switch on the motherboard (usually, but not always black and white wires). NOTE I'm referring to the wires that connect to the FP header on the motherboard which are about 1.5 mm in diameter, disconnect the switch plug to the connector and using a small insulated screwdriver touch the two terminals together. If the machine powers up, there is a fault at the power switch or in the power cable. Once it powers on, release the contact with the terminals, you could also fabricate a simple switch If this fails, then you need to check if the power supply is indeed ok, simplest way is to disconnect all peripherals such as the hard dives, dvd drives, fans etc and try and power on that way. Check also that the ATX main connector of 20-24 pins is FIRMLY in its socket on the mob and the smaller (if fitted) 4 pin CPU power plug is in place. If that fails, try another PSU to confirm that the fault does not lie with the one you currently have installed After that inspect the motherboard closely for any capacitors that are bulging, leaking or have blown, at this juncture I'd suspect terminal motherboard failure
The first step to replacing a motherboard in a desktop computer is to remove the old motherboard. That may sound trivial, but it's literally half of the job, and I'm splitting removal and installation onto two pages so it doesn't get too big. In order to remove the motherboard, you not only have to disconnect all connections between the motherboard and components in the case, you should also remove any cables that are simply in the way. Remember to touch the metal edge of the case to ground yourself from time to time. Some techs like to leave the power supply plugged in for a ground, but that's pretty crazy with ATX technology, since if the switch on the back of the supply goes on, the power supply will be live. I unplug the power supply and avoid dancing on the rug to generate static electricity.
Next we remove the data cable from the hard drives. In a larger case, I might have left the data cables installed on the drive end, but there's very little clearance between the motherboard and the drive cages, and you don't want to start wrestling the old motherboard out because you didn't prepare properly. It's just like working on a car, if you don't get enough stuff out of the way to have room to get a wrench in and see what you're doing, you're just wasting time in the long run. Keep in mind that we're replacing the motherboard, not just taking the old one out, and you don't want to bash the new motherboard around as you're installing it.
Now it's time to remove the PCI adapters and the video card. All of the adapters that mount in motherboard slots are secured to the back rail of the case with single screw each, though the screws are often missing in systems that have been worked on. You may as well take all the screws out at the same time and put them aside in a glass or any other small container to keep them from getting too lost.
You should always handle adapters by the the edges and by the metal bracket when removing them from the motherboard. Again, you can't race through this part like you're just waiting to get to the main course, because you're going to need to put all these adapters back in after you replace the motherboard, unless the new motherboard has those features integrated in the I/O core. You should especially avoid touching the gold contacts on the card edge that pulls out of the motherboard slots, because the oil from your fingers is an electrical insulator.
Standard ATX motherboards feature a single 10x2, 20 pin connector for the power supply. The connection features a sort of a simple latch which is released from the nub on the motherboard connector by depressing the top of the latch (just below my thumb). You can also see the nub on the motherboard connector, on the side near the motherboard edge. It can take a bit of force to pull the connection out of the motherboard even once it's release, since there are 20 tight connection, so be prepared to use your off hand to hold the motherboard down if the edge lifts as you remove the connector.
Now we get to removing the data cables from the old motherboard. If we had more room in the case, I would have left them attached to the drives on the other end. If you have trouble remembering where everything goes when you go to install the new motherboard, I'd recommend the book I write for McGraw-Hill, "Build Your Own PC," which uses extensive photographic illustrations to detail the complete assembly of three state-of-the-art PCs. Note that I'm using both hands to pull out the ribbon cable, holding it as near to the connector as possible. High quality ribbon cables often include a pull loop or tab so you can remove them without stressing the cable.
The motherboard is actually mounted in the case with a series of screws through the motherboard, seven in this case, all of which must be removed. About the worst thing that can happen when you're replacing a motherboard is that one of the screws will turn and turn without releasing. Normally, this is due to the screw having been over-tightened in a brass standoff, which comes unscrewed from the motherboard pan and remains attached to the screw. If you think this is happening, proceed to removing the rest of the screws first so you won't place undo strain on the motherboard by flexing it up. If the standoff thread in the motherboard pan is stripped, you can take off the other side of the case and grab it with vise grips from the back.
The final set of connections we have to deal with are the front panel leads that attach to the motherboard. This includes the LEDs for hard drive activity and power status, the case speaker, and most importantly, the power switch. ATX systems use a logic switch to tell the motherboard, which is always receiving a trickle of power from the ATX power supply, to power full on. These are all small format connectors that easily pull off, and frankly, the power switch is the only one you really need to reconnect when you replace the motherboard, the other's are bells and whistles.
Once all the connections to the motherboard are removed and the screws are all out, you can lift the motherboard a little and pull it away from the back of the case, where the connectors of the I/O core protrude through the shield (left). Once you disengage the I/O core, you can lift the motherboard right out of the case. I usually hold onto a PCI slot and the CPU heatsink, there's just no room to get your fingers on the edges of the motherboard in most cases (below). That pretty much covers the removal phase of replacing a motherboard, so skip over to how to install a new motherboard if you're ready..
I'd like you to check some components on the motherboard. Specifically, Electrolytic Capacitors.
More specifically, the one's used in the motherboard Voltage Regulator Circuit.
This is a leading cause of a computer booting up, then shutting down, then restarting again.
eMachines are a budget computer. The low cost, is due to low quality hardware components inside the computer.. Electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard, being some of the above stated components.
1) Electrolytic Capacitors slowly build a charge up, then release the charge all at once. Akin to a swimming pool slowly being filled up by a garden hose, then one wall of the pool is taken down all at once.
The Electrolytic capacitors used on the motherboard, are aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, and are Radial in design.
Viewing the second photo down, at the top right of the page, the bottom Electrolytic Capacitor is of the radial design. Both leads come out of the bottom.
Essentially, an aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor is a small aluminum 'can', with three strips of thin foil rolled up together, inside.
A) One strip is metal, and is the Conducting strip.
B) One strip is also metal, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
C) The last strip is composed of a paper-like material, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.
The paper strip is placed between the two metal strips, and all three strips are rolled up tightly, then inserted into the 'can'.
(Of the two leads that protrude from the bottom of the capacitor, one is a Positive lead, the other is a Negative lead. The Positive lead is connected to the Conducting strip. The Negative lead is connected to the Non-Conducting strip)
At the bottom of the 'can' case is a seal. This seal is composed of a synthetic rubber-like material, and is a flat disk shape.
At the top of the 'can' case is another seal. It is a thin, flat, disk of metal. The center of this disk shape has an X, or K, etched partially into the disk.
Electrolytic Capacitors break down over time. The design manufacturer of a product that uses this type of capacitor, is aware of this, and plans accordingly.
The capacitor used is 50 percent better than is required. This way as the capacitor breaks down, it weakens to a state that is still usable.
Low quality Electrolytic Capacitors have inferior Electrolytic paste. As the paste breaks down a gas is formed. (Hydrogen gas)
The gas expands inside the can's case, and slowly pushes the Electrolytic paste out. (Oozes out)
When the capacitor is starting to break down, the outside can case bulges.
As the capacitor breaks down further, the paste is pushed out of the bottom seal, (Rubber like disk has one side pushed out of the bottom), and/or breaks the etched design on top open, and paste pushes out.
So much paste loss, and the capacitor can operate in a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails. The paste can also dry up inside, and will show no outward visual signs of failure.
Computer unplugged from power, computer case open. TOUCH (Not 'shouting') the metal frame of the open computer case, BEFORE you reach inside, to relieve your body of static electricity.
[Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer. You may not even see it, or feel it.
Computer unplugged from power you are safe. TOUCH the metal frame, and your computer is safe. Work on a table. Do Not work on a bed, or directly on a carpet floor. These are high areas of static.
Should you get up, and walk away in the middle of working on your computer, be Sure to touch the metal frame upon your return]
See if you can observe visual signs of capacitor failure.
Usually the brass stand offs are used by the slots and ports to provide a bit more solid support. The problem when mounting directly is that you don't want anything on the board touching the metal that isn't supposed to. Usually they will make mounting pads around the holes. These keep the board from shorting out. Without seeing the case all I can tell you is to see if the pads are the only thing that are touching. If you are not sure then just get some electricians tape and put a piece over the case mounts. Thats is faster and works as well as using the proper brown insulating washers. Just check first and tape and you'll be fine.
It is highly unlikely a Pentium 3 motherboard is available let alone a SOYO P3 motherboard.
Motherboards and desktop cases have standard mounting holes, I would suggest you buy a late model motherboard that suit your requirements and mount it in your desktop case. You need to be sure the ATX power supply is adequate power output.
Better still just buy a new computer, you don't need a buy a new monitor.
You can reuse the old hard disk and put it into an USB hard drive adapter case and use it as an external hard drive.
If you've gutted out the old dell computer, then your only talking about a empty case. Put all the right chips and cpu's that the Asus board requires, and you should have no problem with the CD rom or any other hardware. Except if you try and put the hard disk from the dell, it will not have the same configurations, and probably be a bit crazy. But, reformat the drive to it's new board, and your home free.
The power connections will be the same as it was on the old Presario, if you have the old power supply then nothing changes on that. You'll need to hook up the front connectors for USB and Hard drive lights, reset etc, but that would be the ugliest senario. Meaning the csse fit a special connector that the board doesn't carry. In that case you to option, either cut the special connectors and replace them with the ones from the old Presario case, or don't connect them, all but the power, you're gonna need that hooked up, one way or the other.
But, that's as tough as it gets my friend. A case is a case is a case.
Hi there. Get a strong flashlight and a magnifying glass (if you have one). On the motherboard look for the front panel, it should be
marked PWR and coloured green, also the plug that connects to it should
be marked PWR_SW. On some boards there are no colours but the markings are the same, so take a good close look. Have a look at these pictures for an idea >>>>>>
You should be able to purchase a cooler that fits your existing cooler plate.
Replacing a cooler can sometimes be a lot of work. Sometimes you have to remove the motherboard from the case and remove the cooler plate from the underside of the motherboard. Then coolers that use "just the holes" can be used. Or another (different) cooler plate can be installed that may have came with your new cooler. In my experience, the coolers that use "just the holes" (no plate) leave a lot to be desired. Plus, if you're not careful, you can damage the motherboard by applying too much force when installing the fan. If you use a new plate, don't forget to install the insulator between the motherboard and the plate, if it comes with one.
Be careful to protect against unwanted electrostatic discharge. Always touch the metal computer case before touching any parts inside the computer. Also, if you remove the mobo, take careful note of where all the wires go before disassembly.