How would I trouble-shoot this problem? Good water source to back of fridge. I replaced the water inlet solonoid. Nice satisfying "thunk" there when water is called for. Water filter is ok. I'm familiar using a multi-meter. Be nice to get a cold glass of water and not have to fill up the cube tray all the time. Last time I had a problem with this unit it was 300 clamaroonies to have a defrost circuit board replaced. Thanks for your time and advice. Don
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The ice maker tells the water valve to open so you will not see the power until the ice maker ask for water. Does the ice maker have ice remaining in the ice slots? If not then fill with tap water and after the water freezes and ice maker cycles dropping the ice into the ice bin if it does not refill with water then you will only need to change the=> 2315576 Water Inlet Valve If the ice maker does nothing you will need to change the ice maker=> 4317943 Ice Maker Assembly You can find trouble shooting info at Appliance 911
, Thanks John Tripp
There are 3 things that can prevent an ice maker from not working.
1- Temperature of freezzer- Temp must be below 6 degrees on most ice makers.
2- Water inlet valve- Depending on how your ice maker cycles it calls for water for 7.2 seconds. If you have ice and water though the door you have a dual valve and the ice maker selinoid ine the inlet may be bad. Also make sure water is getting to valve. Just because water is coming through the door does not mean water is entering fridge. There is a reservoir in fringe that holds around 3 gallons of water that can still make water come out the door without water entering fridge.
3- Faulty Ice maker- over time the winding and other components can get worn out and fail.
First check the temperature in the freezer.
Next check the inlet valve. To do this you need to remove the hose going from the inlet valve to ice maker and switch with the hose leading to door. Push the actuator in the door to call for water and see if water enters the ice maker. If it does inlet is good. Replace Icemaker. If not replace inlet valve. There may be a problem with the icemaker still but wont know until inlet is fixed.
If you have anymore problems or you need further assistance please feel free to contact
You could have ice in the water shoot which formed because your inlet valve is clogged. The inlet valve is locater in the back behind access cover. Melt the water shoot with a hairdryer and then replace your inlet valve. Fairly inexpensive and easy to change. The reason the water shoot becomes ice is the inlet valve get slower and slower water flow which gives it time to freeze on the way in to the ice maker. Hope i helped, Rate me.
Suggest you do a good defrost, then retry. Also take note if the opposite solonoid to the water solonoid for the fridge activates. (will be found at the back of the fridge).When the ice maker requires water, it will activate the one valve at the back.
The likely culprit will be a damaged inlet assembly
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Obviously, your ice maker problem could be any number of things... Now that you have water to the ice maker, is the inlet valve opening to allow water to get to the ice maker itself? If it is, is the line that runs between the inlet valve free to allow water to get to the ice maker? if it is, is the ice maker cycling ( meaning the motor rotates the drive mechanism that times the cycle of opening the valve, rotating the mold tray then releasing the ice with a small mold release heater? An ice maker that's ~ 13 years old probably has a removable front cover so that you can see the drive gears.. Also, is the lever that senses the ice cube bin is over full in a position ( normally down) that allows th eice cube maker to cycle? Hopefully, these simple checks will help you trouble shoot the problem and get your icemaker functioning again. Hope this helps !