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Whirlpool electric stove

The burners on my Whrilpool electric stove quit working (model number RF375PXEW). If I move the burner around, sometimes it will work for short amounts of time. What do I need to do to fix our burners?

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  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    the burners work but the overn does not work

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The ideal thing to do, would to be to replace the elements themselves. Most heating elements for stoves are universal and can be bought at lowes stores. I found your model number specific burner elements on a supply website for 42.00 each on the 8 inch and 35.95 each on the 6 inch elements. I am almost certain, you'll find these parts at lowes or home depot much cheaper. If this doesn't help, let me know, we will try another route.

Posted on Apr 15, 2008

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Hi Teresa Rhodes- Smith -Try reprogramming the range by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and restart unit. If it proves to be ineffective, I strongly suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately and to assist with the repairs and to refrain from using the unit. The range could possibly be experiencing a communication error with the EOC, wiring failure, or faulty element sensor/switch.

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Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

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I have a kenmore gas range with electric ignitors. My question is that my stove top doesnt ignite but lets gas by and I can use a lighter to lite them. However my oven doesn't do anything...no gas no...


Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

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Check the burner ports near the ignitor for blockage. I had one of these units, and the ignitor was not mounted correctly, and caused a similar problem

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1 Answer

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This stove uses a special switch that turns one way for the large burner and the other way for the smaller burner. I was not aware that this had a seperate simmer burner on it, however. I think you using the wrong term there.

This is not computer controlled--the only computer on it should be the oven switch. I would assume that you need to replace the switch for the dual-size burner. If you take your model number in to Sears, or log onto Sears dot com, you should be able to get to the PARTS DIRECT web site on the computer, and if they ever sold that model you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown with expanded drawing and part numbers and prices. You should be able to buy the part from them. The part should be virtually the same as ANY recent model Frigidaire or Kenmore stove with the same style burner. This should be a very easy repair for you to make yourself, assuming that you know a little about working with electricity--remember, this stove USES 220 VOLTS!

Check out all of the wiring coming into the switch and going from the switch to the burner to be sure that there is not a short!

If you have one of the older smooth surface stoves, where the burners are part of the ceramic top, all bets are off, but anything you bought new in the last half-dozen years, should have a separate burner underneath a glass top, and the repair should be simple. Even with the older stove, it is still likely the switch, and should be no problem.

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First thing to check is to put your hand over the burner when the indicator comes on and see if the burner is actually hot! DO NOT actually touch the burner! The smell of your own burning flesh is not so pleasant, and could cause you to pass out with your hand still on the burner or something like that, so be careful. More than likely, the problem is with the burner switch, but could be with anything between that and the actual element.

What did they quote you $350 to repair???? Was that parts and labor, or just parts? Sounds very high. If, however, you have one of the older stoves with a ceramic top that had the element in the top, you have to replace the whole thing to fix one burner, not very smart, economically. Newer stoves use seperate elements beneath the glass top, and so are much less expensive to repair.

Go to the Sears.com website, and click on the parts link (it's in a line of grey typed links, relatively small font, a couple of inches below the top of the website home page, and toward the right side.) Type in your model number on the right side of the parts page where it says to, and it will come up with a parts breakdown that has a list of the parts and their prices. If they never sold your model, you might have to come up with a similar model that they did sell in order to get parts listings that would work.

That will at least give you an idea of prices. You should also look at the switch for that burner.  If the burner won't run on either size setting, I'd suspect the switch or that the power is not getting to that switch.

Remember, you are working with 220 VOLTS here, and be very careful. But if you can handle a voltmeter, you can determine if power is getting to the switch, and getting out of the switch, and if it is getting to the element. You can buy a DVM at Radio Shack or Sears, or just about anywhere else, these days. Elenco is a company that makes decent ones very cheaply, and you can buy them online. Or you might have a friend or relative who has one at home, and knows how to use it around 220 volt circuits....

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