Question about Oster 12-Bottle Wine Cellar - Black
I have a oster wine cooler OW0912H6H the fans on it quit working the inside light and the temp controls seem to be working ok any tips?
I had the same problem as other bloggers--temp would not decrease and fan did not run. . . as suggested by others, I replaced the 5A heat-shrink wrapped fuse in upper left corner of circuit board (fuse is covered in black heat shrink wrap and is in a U-shape). I unsoldered the two ends of the fuse on the circuit board (be sure you locate the correct two holes) and then replaced it with two parts from Radio Shack--a 5x20mm Inline Fuse Holder rated at 250V AC, 5A (part # 270-1238) and used a 6.3A slow-blow 250V fuse (part # 270-1066). Now the wine Refir works great!
To replace the part take all the screws off the sheet metal covering on the back of the refrigerator. Remove the circuit board from the plastic holder. I left all the wires plugged in and just unsoldered the fuse with the circuit board still connected--but to solder you will need an extra pair of hands to hold the board while you solder.
If you don't have it, get some silver solder while at Radio Shack and a thin, needle-point soldering iron tip. Radio shack has 30W soldering irons for less than $10. You really don't need soldering experience--just a steady hand. Even if you have none of these parts your total outlay at RadioShack is less than $25 for everything.
Posted on May 29, 2009
I followed someone else's advice on this string about replacing the fuse on the upper left side of the circuit board (as you face it from the back of the fridge). It was not easy to find this 5 amp fuse because its covered in black plastic (heatshrink), and is soldered on to the circuit board. There is another glass fuse that's easy to see, that is not the one. I checked the continuity of both the fuses and found that this one WAS out. I removed the fuse by locating the connections for the fuse on the back side of the circuit breaker and heating the connections with a soldering iron. I picked up an in-line fuse holder and a 6.3 amp 5x20mm fuse at Radio Shack and soldered it in place. I had to make the holes on the ciruit board a tiny bit larger to fit the fuse holder in. It's working great now. Actually, it's cooling off 3 or 4 times faster then it did before. I think a 6.3 amp to 7.0 amp fuse is perfect. The 5 amp was definetely too small.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
I also have this model and upon opening the unit the fuse encased in shrink tubing was indeed blown. As per the suggestion above I de-soldered the fuse and added a 5x20mm in-line fuse holder and picked up a few extra 6.3 amp slow blows (all they had). Works like a charm. Cost me maybe 5 bucks. If your unit is dead and you can't get a refund and you have some soldering experience give it a try.
Posted on Oct 24, 2008
Found the fuse that I read in some of the solutions. The fuse is on the circuit board covered with a black tube. It looks like a upside down "U" on the upper left hand side of the board, next to a copper coil. (The shrink tube keeps the fuse from shorting out with the copper coil.) It is not the fuse on the lower right that you can easily see. I'm an electrician and I even had a hard time finding it! This is not a real easy fix unless you are a little adapt at working with electronics or a small soldering iron. I wonder how many of these units were thrown out because of a $.25 stinking fuse? Hope this helps. Bone
Posted on Oct 29, 2009
As one person said... There is a circuit board on back of cooler it has a green and red light on it. Look at the top left corner there is fuse covered by black plastic heat shrink wrap. That fuse is blown and needs to be replaced
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
The problem with the unit is that the fan stops working. I was told that the problem occurs because the fuse installed is 5 amps and should have been 6 or 7 amps. The fix: As you face the back of the unit, the glass fuse is on the left, protected under a black plastic cover. The fuse is soldered in (of all things). I took the circuit board out and spent 30 bucks to have the fuse replaced. Works fine. Want to try a number? 800-605-5364 You're welcome.
Posted on May 16, 2008
Yep it was the fuse on the upper left corner covered in heat shrink. Replaced the fuse and good as new.
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
Same problem. After reading this thread I purchased an inline fuse holder and a 7 amp fuse at Radio Shack. [less than $5] I took a digital picture of the circuit board before removing it as there are several plug-in connectors. After thirty minutes of work I had the connector soldered in, 7 amp fuse in place and everything back together. Everything is working fine. I might investigate getting a higher quality fan.
Posted on Oct 25, 2008
Had the wine cellar one week, ran it empty for a day in the hot weather and the fan stopped working just like for everybody else. Followed the advice from Jack Dx and Jet_mm and yes the 'hidden' fuse had blown. Replaced it with a 7amp fuse and even with the weather still hot it is cooling down very quickly.
Posted on Aug 06, 2008
Just in case anyone can't find the "f2" problem fuse here is a picture of the circuit board
Posted on Apr 16, 2017
If its only a little job to do to clean first for most profit to help the cause of this problem is to remove the dusty lubrication of the axle of the motor because everytime it started IF the FAN axles are NOT clean and good lubricated then it will suck to much by every startup once in a year can sometimes neccesary to clean because dust turns easely in the front sinterbearings of the fan motor(s) andthe whole motor becomes warmer and lubrication need to refreshed is much better, and thats the same thing as you have a as a suggested cheap living room fan there is inside the coil a temperature fuse build in but there are no glass fuses to find and if its not properly maintained as every summer use a little bit wd40 or some handy oil on the motor axle to have a much lower resist for the start because thats the moment that the coil temperature fuse inside the electric field coil (most to find inside a wrapped heat shrink or cardboard tube) so if that is doing each time then fuses are not neccesary to change with higher ampere ones because its just to prevent thermal failures in the coil of the motor by a to high heat dissipation. factories have special calculated the choice for the fuses in order for CE comformation on fire insurance and more .
Posted on Jun 11, 2016
I got tired of my wife using it as a Wine Storage Cabinet, so I decided to tear into the back. Yes there are 2 fuses one on the bottom that is mounted horizontal that you can see and there is one that is in the middle of the Circuit board that is covered with black shrink wrap. All I did was snip It off and solder the wire direct.
Works Perfect don't recommend going below 55 degree's
Posted on Dec 06, 2010
As everybody else said, I un-soldered the existing fuse, which was without a doubt blown, and re-soldered a new one in. It's working great now. Instantly started cooling off and the fan came back instantly, things it was not doing in the past.
I left the metal road coming from the other solder-point in the board, and just re-attached it to the new fuse at the other tip. The rod is quite stupid in my opinion, as the placement of the fuse too.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
This fuse issue was the problem with mine - thanks. I installed a fuse holder, had to drill out the board to take a the larger wire size of the fuse-holder wire, soldered it up and were back in business.
To clarify, the problem fuse is mounted end up, with a jumper wire up to the end of it and covered in heavy shrink tubing. The pc board is single sided, so drilling it is ok. It is not like a more sophisticated board with multi-layers or plated through holes.
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
To clerify, that nortorious 5 Amp fuse, in black heat shrink, is "F2". The main fuse "F1", not covered in heat shrink, doesn't seem to give any problems.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
You guys are right on....after 8 months my cooler fans stopped working. Installed in-line fuse and now I have cool wine once again.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
I JUST replased my fuse yesterday. and cooler is working great now. If you cant do it yourself, take to an electrician. tell him it is the fuse on the upper left of the board that is black shrink wrapped. It will be a kindrgarten job for him and probably not very expensive. buy the parts yourself and save evn more. this was an easy fix!
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
I encourage each of you to file a complaint with www.consumeraffairs.com.
My only response from Oster continues to be automated emails that say "Hi I'm Bunny B and have forwarded your concerns to appropriate division." No response to my questions, phone system not helpful. This is ridiculous.
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
I've read all the posts and I'd like to add 1 more person with the same problem. I can't find a troubleshooting guide anywhere. the fans stopped working, there is a red and green LED light on the back circuit board. I can only assume the red means there's a problem (duh). Is there a reset button? I only had the cooler for 8 months and was working fine until 4 days ago. Did anyone bring it back to Best Buy for a refund? Do they keep copies of the receipts in their computers?
Posted on Oct 29, 2008
I added an inline fuse holder. now we can see what happens... I do believe this company tanked! NO SURPRISE! Total spent $17 including the vodka!
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
Problem is the fuse in the circuit we have fixed over 40 of these send over the circuit board for 10.00 dollars along with post marked return for shipment package we will repair.
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
Wow, there is a lot of misinformation in this thread. This unit is not made by Elite Classics, so do not call them. The correct number is 866-866-6283 (the same one as on your warranty card). This will get you in to the service center and they will take care of your problem.
Jack Dx is correct in that the problem is the fuse. If you are handy you can solder in a new fuse yourself, it is a standard 5mmx20mm glass fuse. Use a 6.5 or 7 amp fuse.
Posted on Jul 03, 2008
This wine frig is not made by Oster but is instead made by and licensed to Oster by the Elite Group - 877-383-6399
Posted on Jul 01, 2008
I have same problem. I went to Oster.com and under customer service there is a link to locate the local oster service center. I dropped it off and oster will fix/replace under warranty (Dec 2007/BestBuy).
Posted on Jun 02, 2008
We got our for x-mas and about 4 mounths after we got it the temp slowly rose. It said of the inst. book that the temp can go down to about 50 but ours only went down to 51. About 4 mounths after we got it it went up to like 54-55. We returned to best buy for a new one and tried that one out. The new one had the same promblem but only we couldnt find the return slip so we couldnt return it. (the built in fan on mine works) so...
I took a fan from an old computer of mine and connected it on the back of the unit were the holes are in the metal at the top. (above the built in fan). If you are facing the back of the unit the fan would be on the left upper hand corner of the unit. This was the area the was the most hottest. After about 2 days the temp went back down to about 52 but it wont go any lower.
Hope that helps. (if you use a computer fan, then use a 9v dc cord to hook it up with.
Posted on May 11, 2008
I called the local tech service center here and they told me they did not have much luck with these coolers because parts where unavailable, Why can't you even find this cooler on the Oster web site? The tech said it's like someone else makes it and they sell it. I am very unhappy with this company at this time and plan on NOT buying any of their products again
Posted on May 07, 2008
I too have the Oster OW0912H6H Wine Cooler and we just noticed the other night that the temp was at 76. So was our inside temperature in the house. Wondering if anyone received a manual with their unit and if it says anything about overheating or resetting.
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
I just bought one of these in my local classifieds in "as-is"condition.First thing I noticed is that the fan on the back was'nt working.I wiggled the connection on the circuit board and what do you know this babys cooling!Not bad for a $10 wine cellar!
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
I have a oster wine cooler OW0912H6H the fans on it quit working the inside light and the temp controls seem to be working ok any tips?
If the fans have gone out then I would replace the fans as it does spread the cool air inside of the wine cooler to keep the wine cold – other wise the air just sits and will not circulate – if you cannot serv the fans yourself – call a serv tech and they will do the repair for you ---- for parts you call 1-800-786-2326 or the parts website of:
Posted on Apr 15, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
The issue could be the cold control, timer, wiring, or the compressor.
The temp control has to be closed for voltage to get to the timer. The timer then calls for the fans and compressor to run. The timer could have stalled after a defrost cycle or the cold control could not be sending voltage to the timer.
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