Question about Maytag MGR5875QD CleanDesign Gas Kitchen Range

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Frigidaire electrolux gallery series

My oven and the clock do not work but all my burners on the stovetop work fine i heard a loud popping sound and it blew my circuit breaker downstairs






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  • croni11 Oct 12, 2008

    I heard a pooping sound and now my oven won't go on. I repalced all the fuses in the stove as well as checked the fuses in my home. WHat now?

  • Anonymous Feb 16, 2009

    I didn't hear the pop, and it didn't affect the circuits, but the oven doesn't work. I think it's a heating coil.

  • tanyarowland Feb 17, 2009

    HI

    I have the fridgidare elcotolux gallery series stove just over 5 years old. Purchaed from coast Wholesale appliances, with the 5 year extended warranty. Last March the control panel caught on fire. Coast replaced the panel. In Nov or maybe just before it started to show PF (power failure)

    and would should off the oven. My microwave and alarm clocks were not on PF so it wasn't a house power failure. This happened several times. To the point where a roast I was cooking never cooked as it went to PF while I was out. I called coast in Dec. They sent someone out to look at it. He checked the control panel and electrical and could find nothing wrong.

    Coast said is was out of warranty in Oct and as I had not reported any problems with it since March they would do nothing. Also telling me the control panel only had a 90 day warranty.

    I am extremely worried another fire may start as well. The oven is unreliable. Although it is convection. I can't use it as it burns the lower tray of baked goods if I have two trays in.

    I am concerned this is a manufacturer defect that could cause a house fire.

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Stoveboy,

I know you probably have the problem fixed by now, but I had the same problem with my frigidaire range just the other day. Loud popping sound, range/clock controls do not work. Stovetop still works great.

I took the back off the stove and got to the circuit board. Unplug the connector and the five spade connector wires. Once you do that, remove the 4 screws holding the entire assembly in place. The circuit board(s) are held in the housing with retaining clips on the housing. Use a small screwdriver or similar to pull back on each clip to pry each side of the board out. Once the board(s) are free, look in between the two circuit boards and you will see the problem. The larger, 20 amp relay is the culprit. It blew traces off of both boards making it almost impossible to repair. Without having a schematic to go by, I went ahead and decided to just replace w/ new boards as opposed to trying to solder the traces. I have not checked on prices, but brief web searches didn't return any results. The board part # is SF5301-S7509-N

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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Dear Nabulldog(Solution #2),

I have same board with same problem and R75 measures 219.4 ohm.

Posted on Mar 08, 2010

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Mine did the same think, load pop, clock out, oven out. The burners work fine. Removed boards, relay, which controls L2 in and L2 out, blew out a trace along with a relay lead. I removed the relay and checked it. It was still good, modified the relay to replace blown pin. reinstalled, didn't work. I look a little deeper and found resistor R75 open. It is also feed to the affected relay.
I'm trying to determine if R75 is a 220 ohm or a 10,000 ohm. I can't distinguish which end of the resistor to read from. Usally, there is a slight gap in between the value and the last color band, but not in my case. Anyone know the size of resistor R75?

Color Bands: Red Red Blk Blk Brown
or
Brown Blk Blk Red Red

Posted on Dec 08, 2009

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Klllllllllllllll

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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Frigidaire stacked washer/dryer squeeks loud when running dryer side

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

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Probly shorted out clock

Posted on May 16, 2008

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