I was listing one day win it just quit. it was bridged on 2 4 ohm JL w3's. now the left channel is fine but the rite channel will **** the subwoofer in as soon as turn the amp on. i would greatly appre.any help on how and where 2 get the parts 2 fix it. thanks Jay Drope, jonesboro,ar.
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Re: amp sucks sub in
The amp probably has shorted output transistors. The damage may include several surface mount components also. The output transistors are soldered to the mehsa insulator and are more difficult to change than those in other amplifiers. If you want to learn to do repairs, it may be worth the cost and effort to try to repair it. The parts are relatively inexpensive (average less than $15 - not including shipping). The tools to repair it are going to cost ~$35-50.
If you simply want the amp repaired, take it to a local repair shop.
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You can't bridge that amp onto a load lower than 4 ohms. So you can't bridge that amp onto two 4 ohm subs. To get the most power out of your subs is easy. Run one channel to one sub and the other channel to the other sub. 165 watts RMS is plenty for most subs.
I would be more worried about the amp than the speakers, those subs should handle the watts with no problem. The problem will be in the amps ability to remain working with a bridged 2 ohm load. It may not even stay on without going into protect mode with a 2 ohm load. If it does stay on then it may get really hot and shut off from the heat off of the Mosfett Transistors, or it could burn the Mosfetts from driving them too hard. Basically it's your choice, run your amp hard and gain more volume or run it with slightly less sound and have a cleaner sounding more stable amp that will stay on and have less chance of being damaged. If it's not loud enough the best thing to do is buy a different amp that better suits your needs and fits the application. In your case a 2 ohm stable Mono amp is going to be your best bet or a 4 channel amp bridged into 2 channels and run with 4 ohms on each channel. Or another exact matching amp like your 2 channel amp bridge them both and have each powering 1 of your 4 ohm subs. I used two VR mono amps to power my two 12" 4 ohm subs for a few years
you need to determine what impedance the amp is running at ,how many spekers ,most 2 channel amps will only run 2 4 ohm subs per channel and only 1 4 ohm speaker in bridge ,Basically if you have 2 4 ohm speakers bridged at the amp it will usually cut in and out .Some amps will not do this for a while and will work for a while at low impedance but once they get older and hot and cool off many times they will then only work for the intended ohm load ,Do you have 2 speakers ,if so make sure 1 is on left channel and 1 is on 2nd channel (should not cut off ) if it is a mono amp ,make sure you are only running 2 4 ohm subs and not dvc speakers (these will run 1 ohm and shut the amp down ) there are ways of wiring more speakers or dvc speakers ,I can explain but I need to know what product you have .
You are correct, the amp will not support 2 ohms bridged. your best bet would probably be to have one voice coil on each channel. You could run them in parallel on one channel. but you will be getting the same power to each sub as if you put one on each channel. If you run them at 8 ohm bridged you will be getting less than 125 wrms per voice coil because of amp inefficiency at such a high resistance. It will sound cleaner also if you have one voice coil per channel.
not really a problem, your just running a the threshold of the amps comfort zone, a lil trick to raise your impedance a little bit its to run an additional 10 feet of wire before your sub, (longer the wire the more resistance) 10 feet should jump you up about .5 ohms. you wont hear the difference but your amp will fill it, and run a little better. 20 feet will give you right around 1 ohm. now if you dont mind loosing some power run the subs in series and then run them bridged. your amp will work harder, but run easier because its on a big open loop. but before all this take a multi meet and read out your voice coils to see what the ohm level is, then read out what it is at the speaker, then you will see 1. if the subs are okay, and 2. how much you need to raise your impedance for you amp to run comfortably.
Could you elaborate on how the speaker is bridged?
I think you want to hook up a single speaker to a stereo speaker output.
In this case, you would strap (bridge?) the right and left speaker terminals by running a short wire from A right negative to A left negative. Then strap A right positive to A left positive -- this will give you mono output on either of the right or left speaker terminals -- connect your speaker to either one of these.
Do you know what the ohm rating is for the speaker outs on the amp and also the speaker itself?
are you factoring the ohm rating from running them parallel?
2 x 2o subs parallel = 0.5 ohm (lowers ohm's)
2x 2oh subs series = 4 ohm
IT is posable that you are calculating the ohm rating fine, BUT some SUBS can reach lower ohm rating while hitting bass- i didnt know this till i had a rather insane sub that would dip to 1ohm while hitting hard bass causing my amp to go into protect mode.
This should work if channel 3 & 4 are bridged at 4 ohm.
channel 1 should be stable at 2ohm
channel 2 should be stable at 2 ohm
You can hook up the right side speakers together ( + with + and - with - ) . same thing with the left side. this will give you 2 ohm each channel. this will cause your amp to run hot (this might be tuff on the amp). It will give you right (2 speakers) and left ( 2 speakers ), no front and rear adjustement if you need to balance your sound. I think you should be better buying another amp for your sub and take your 4 channels for your 4 car speakers. this amp as a rca output that can feed the other amp ( sub amp ). it is possible to do it.
You've pretty much hit the nail on the head. Two 2 ohm subs in parallel would give you 1 ohm, and two 2 ohm subs in series would give you 4 ohms. 1 ohm would be overloading the amp but 4 ohms is slightly "underloading" the amp.
Your best solution with the gear you have (i.e. not buying new subs or a new amp) is to put the subs in series (4 ohms). True, you'll be putting about 200W into each sub, but according to page 4 of the owner's manual for the subs, 200W is just a tad under the optimum level recommended for the sub anyway.