Question about Car Speakers & Subwoofers

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I have hooked up a large amp in my ford ranger and I have turn signal and brake pedal noise (thumps) amplified through my sub

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Are you getting the audio to the Amp from the Standard Speaker outputs from your head unit or are you using the low-level (non-amplified) outputs?

Amplifiers need clean (low-level) sound in order to work best. If you're providing audio input to your amp from the standard speaker cables that come out of your head unit, the amp will deliver poor sound quality & often engine noise.

If you're using the low level out's from your head unit, then try the following:

1. Make sure you've got clean power. Connect the Amp's power cable (through a fused link of some sort) directly to your car's battery. Don't attempt to tap in to the power from anywhere else on the vehicle (not only will you likely void your warranty if the car's new, but you'll also run the risk of screwing up your car and getting dirty power to your Amp). Garbage in, garbage out!

2. Make sure you've got a great ground (must be the same size cable as the power, must be securely connected at both ends, must be making a good connection to bare metal - I mean use a steel bristle brush or screwdriver to scrape off paint, clear coat, color, anything other then clean bare metal may not work).

3. Try relocating the audio cables away from power cables (both for the amp and other vehicle electronics). Example: BMW's have the battery in the trunk. The power runs down the right side of the vehicle, under the kick plate below the carpet kit. If you run your audio cable down the right side of a BMW, you're bound to get engine noise from the power cables. It's best to run the audio down the driver's side to avoid ambient noise bleed.

4. If you're sure that both 1 - 3 above are good to go, try getting a noise suppression kit - this company makes some of the best:
Pacific Accessory Corporation

Posted on Apr 14, 2008

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I have a mono amplifier hooked up to a 12 inch sub. I have everything hooked up. The ground is good. However, when I turn the gain/level up to around 55% the sub starts thumping loudly. Just a rhythmic...


There are a few things you can look at. Check to make sure you power is at a constant 12 volts. Usually a dip in voltage will set off a protection mode, but it protection is malfunctioning, this may be occuring. You also may need a larger guage wire for power and ground, depending on how many amps your amplifier is drawing. You subwoofer may be the problem too. Is it a dual 4 ohm, or dual 2 ohm? If it's dual 2 ohm and your amp isnt' one ohm stable, this could be causing the amp to overload. From your description it sounds like the amp is "clipping", so my gut tells me it's more of a power problem. Recheck all your wiring. If you have a multimeter to check your power, use it. Good luck.

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What would the best way hooking up a 15" memphis dual voice coil sub ran with a 1000 watt memphis d amplifier??


If the amp is a 2 channel I would hook up each voice coil to a different channel. Also, make sure you hook your amp up as close to the sub as possible. With a sub that size you need to eliminate any delay in signal transfer because the sub is so larg.

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Bass speaker start up noise


Hello anne845,

It sounds like the installer wired the amp remote turn-on terminal to an "accessory" lead in your vehicle. Many stock radios do not have a dedicated amp turn-or lead and the alternative is to connect the amp to a switched power source (ignition or accessory). This means the amp turns on whenever you turn on the vehicle ignition, often resulting in a thumping from the subs. It is a perfectly satisfactory alternative, and will not damage either the amp or the sub. But it's irritating.

If the thumping is objectionable, have your installer wire a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) toggle switch inline with the turn-on wire. The switch should be mounted so it is accessible by the driver, and whenever you turn on the radio, turn on the toggle switch.

Hope this helps.

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Only one thump when car is turned on. problem in amp strength or subwoofer?


try pluging in a diff, speaker to the amp see if u get sound.try powering the sub with a home radio just to see if u get sound at all if ur getting sound from the sub then its the amp but u could of damaged it when the amp over heated

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there is a wire that you must connect behind the radio deck that is blue, this is the remote wire, this goes from the wire to the amp and is what sends the signal that tells the subs to beat/make noise
you will want to run the wire from the amplifier to behind the radios wiring harness. this should fix the problem.
you also mite want to chek the settings on your deck and the volume settings on the amplifire

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1 Answer

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Check the 12v wire running from the battery to the amplifier. Also the sony explode is a garbage subwoofer compared to the Alpine.. sony (they say 1200w max but its more like 100w to power the thing) Amp could be going. Is the amplifier hot when running. If there is a burnt smell comming from the amp, its the amplifier

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remote wire turning on amplifier?
Ground for amplifier?
Gain improperly set?
Radio output crossed over above tuning freq. of enclosure?
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OEM gm stereo


If your amplifier has what they call High level inputs (basically inputs on the amp that you run the speaker wires from your radio into), you can splice wires from where the connectors are on your rear speaker(s), still leaving the speaker hooked up, and use those as an input into the amp. If your amplifier does not have high level inputs, a convertor is available to turn an audio signal from your radio output speaker wires ( spliced in just as above, leaving the speaker hooked up), into an rca output jack. Or the best thing to do would be to buy another say 2-4 channel amp w/high level inputs and rca inputs and outputs, and run your rear speaker wires into the amp. Then you'll be able to run the rca cables out of that amp and into the sub amp, and you'll have the new amp to power your rear speakers or rears and fronts. That would be ideal. But, A convertor is your best bet. Got em at best buy, circuit city, etc. Hope this was helpful.

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1 Answer

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well at this point i would say it is both,, the subs fried because your amplifier passed dc [direct current] and fried the voice coils on your subs....return them if they are under warranty,, the amplifier sound like you either operated it beyound its specifications or it has a defective output stage allowing it to pass or leak dc....it turned the voice coils into the equivelent of the runners in a toaster oven....when an amp passes dc it is going to do so to whatever speakers you hook to it....so either bring it to a shop to be fixed/ return it to place purchase for exchange or throw it away.....or you will continue to experience the same problems....I am sorry..ps the amp goes into protection when it detects a short...[ the short is produced by the amp and it is detecting its own fault and putting it in to protection after it BURNS up your drivers....

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