The feed dogs stick and bunch up the fabric and pull it out of the hoop.
The feed dogs seems to grab the thread and fabric and keep the machine from advancing. It is stuck so tight, the hoop lets go, no matter how tight I have it hooped. But when I get the mess cleaned up on top of the feed dogs, the bobbin thread seems to be ok. I have noticed several times when I insert the bobbin and wind the thread in , the thread sticks in the loop sometimes. Hope this makes sense. My machine was at the dealers last week for cleaning and repair for this problem, but it is not fixed.
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Re: The feed dogs stick and bunch up the fabric and pull...
I would take it back to the repair shop with some of your samples and the "mess" in place so they can sort it out for you.......after all, you have paid them to do a service and should have a 30 or 90 day warrantee implicit in that arrangement.
I suggest you phone first to arrange to meet (with the tech too if possible) and outline your concerns, they do have a responsibility to you.
Whenever this happens to me (rare thankfully) I give the machine priority and generally talk it through with the customer and try a sew test with them present so we can see what is happening then and there.
I would not advise you to "play around" inside as it will void any warrantee.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
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When you sew the machine must be set at the correct settings. If your machine won't straight stitch, turn it off at the power point and then turn it back on. Most machines reset to the default straight stitch setting. Secondly when you sew the presser foot must be down. This engages the "feed dogs" or the triangular looking "teeth" below the presser foot. As you sew, the feed dogs grab the two layers of fabric pulling them through, the thread above (spool) and the thread below (bobbin) meet to form the stitch. Finally, maybe fiddling around with dials and settings you may have dropped, or disengaged the feed dogs. Check with your manual on how to re-engage the feed dogs. Hope this helps and happy sewing. Remember, when all else fails..... read the manual.
DO NOT pull your fabric through. Under the face plate you will find the feed dogs. They are two rows of "textured" metal things that grab the fabric from underneath and pull it back. This pulls your fabric through. Look in your manual for info on the feed dogs. They are adjustable. You need to raise the feed dogs to a higher position.
when the needle pulls the fabric into the feed dog you dont have enough fabric behund the neelde when you srart, and the fabric gets caught in the feed and the bobbin case underneath clean it out anf change the needle they often get bent after they get tangled in the thread and fabric
What do I need to get
started at free machine embroidery?
A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other
words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to
feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your
zigzag stitches too.
An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An
embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the
throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see
what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can
alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into
it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in
that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but
they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to
replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle
with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with
spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery
hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood,
has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring,
separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place
the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull
the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you
squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place
the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still
squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop
is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better
tension on the fabric.
Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while
you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some
are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're
done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery,
as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also
papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water,
leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your
authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent
plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your
authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very
nice. It's expensive though.
Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery
hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the
piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the
piece from the fabric.
Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary
polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the
fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may
want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when
you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery
Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so
you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of
that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought?
Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel
that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the
bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread
will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a
problem with this to date.
How do I prepare the machine
and fabric for free machine embroidery?
Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't
set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that
important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any
stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric
is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to
embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the
fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the
table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right
side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or
special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If
you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place
the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift
the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to
remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then
re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing
machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until
stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
How do I lock the thread at
the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to
Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.
are you doing embroidery? if so turn off jump stitch cutting if possible. is the machine threaded correctly (pull needle thread out of machine and thread again with presser foot raised.
check for foreign matter in needle tension assembly. ensure there is sufficient needle thread tension.
the thread you see caught up underneath the fabric will be needle thread and indicates insufficient needle thread tension or something preventing the needle thread from being pulled up into the fabric (maybe a damaged bobbin case, or bobbin case position finger, or damaged needle plate hole).
About the needle problem, Brother's FAQ gives the following response:
Make sure the needle is correctly inserted with the flat side facing the back and pushed up into the machine as far as possible.
The needle could have been damaged or bent. If so replace with a new one.
Make sure the fabric is not pulled excessively when sewing. Let the feed dogs move the fabric. Do not pull the fabric.
The combination of needle size, thread size and fabric is incorrect. Be sure to use the correct needle and thread size for the fabric you are sewing.(example: Denim-size 16 needle and 40-50 heavy duty thread).
As for the manual, here's the link: http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/BSC/public/files/dlf/doch000063/ps21xl55565700ug02en.pdf
This is a very common problem with really lightweight fabric and can often be cured (if doing straight stitching) by using a straight stitch needle plate and foot. The wider needle plate and foot openings on newer machines give the machine/thread a wider area to pull the fabric into the machine. By using a straight stitch plate/foot you remove the wide opening, eliminating the majority of the problem.
Also - try using a specially coated needle (Teflon or other non-stick finish). The thread feeds more smoothly through the needle and the needle more smoothly through the fabric, causing less drag into the needle plate opening.
Hope this helps. Don't hesitate to respond to this if you have further specific questions. We're always happy to help
Happy stitching, Kim & Linnette www.sewingexpressions.com