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It can only be two or three things.
1. the battery has a dead cell.
2. the alternator is bad and must be replaced
3. if it is an older car (1985 or earlier ) the voltage regulator might be bad. Most newer cars have the voltage regulator and the alternator as one part.
Most auto parts stores will check your charging system for free if you just ask them.
Hello there. My name is George. In regards to your problem, there are a few things you need to know. Make sure both battery cables and post are clean and tight. Also check the two bolts holding the voltage regulator onto the side of the engine. A loose voltage regulator will not have the proper grounding to function. Underneath the flywheel is a device called an stator. This stator creates an alternating current or commonly called A/C Voltage. This voltage travels to another external device called an Voltage Regulator. The voltage regulator converts the A/C voltage from the stator to Direct Current or commonly called D/C Voltage to the units battery. Using the Model, Type and Code numbers found on the valve cover, you can call any parts store and they should be able to tell you what type of charging system you have, (i,e. 10 amp, 20 amp etc.) Ask them what the A/C voltage should be coming from the stator. I believe it will be at least 28 to 30 volts a/c. You can measure this voltage by using an ohm meter set to a/c~volts. You must have the engine running full throttle when you do this test. The ideal rpms for this test is 3600. You would need an tachometer to get it perfect, but full throttle usually gives an a/c output around 28 vac Now with the stator and voltage regulator disconnected and the engine running at full throttle, use the red and black test leads from the ohm meter and put the tips into the wire connector, red on one wire and black on the other. No, it does not make a difference which wire. Read the meter. If it shows the voltage the parts store told you (around 28vac is my guess, then your stator is doing its job. If it is giving you anything less than that the stator is bad. If it is bad, you will need to remove the flywheel to inspect it and or replace it. If its good, Turn off the engine and reconnect the stator and voltage regulator. Now find the single wire coming from the voltage regulator (its normally red) and disconnect it. This wire is the d/c voltage connection going to your battery. Set your ohm meter to d/c volts. Start the engine and let it run full throttle while you put the red test lead into the red wire coming from the voltage regulator and the black to a good ground. If you cant find a good ground then use the negative -(Black) battery post. If you read around 13 to 14 volts d/c then your voltage regulator is good and you have a shorted wire from the voltage regulator to the battery, If its bad then it will read 0 and it will need to be replaced. Feel free to contact me at: [email protected] if you have any other questions. Good Luck.
I don't have a shop manual for a Hummer. But GM trucks built in 2007 use something other than the alternator to control voltage. Sometimes its called a generator control module and sometimes it is inside the body computer or the ECM. You may need to check with someone who specializes in Hummers for the answer.
Those 6 Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors are bad.
They are in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit, and one's used to control voltage for the Processor.
(NOTE* Not all Electrolytic capacitors used in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit, and specifically for the Processor, are near the Processor. There may be others also, and not close to the Processor socket )
Part of what the motherboard voltage regulator circuit does, is to regulate voltage for the Processor.
The Processor MUST have a steady, 'clean', supply of Voltage, AND the voltage must be kept within a VERY tight tolerance range, for the Processor.
Detailed information on the motherboard voltage regulator circuit,
Sound like both. But the amp is fried now. It is fixable you have to replace the transistors that is attached to the heatsink. Its a job and a half and need soldering skills.
Parts are just a few bucks on line. What you need to do is open up the amp and disasemble the whole thing. Take the motherboard off completly and look at the transistors for the part number. find the part number and go to this website for a cross-refference fot an NTE part number. http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte/NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$$Search?OpenForm. Once located the NTE part number. Go to http://parts-express.com/ and search the NTE part number in the search box. Hope this helps.
it must be due to ur pc's on/off switch faulty.... try to change the switch. or open the cover of ur cpu and change the on/off switch cables with restart cable. i.e. swap the cables of on/off and restart (remove the on/off cable don't fix it when checking)
low voltage pulling by what your saying it sounds like your alternator is about to give up seeing that it cant disperse elec. to other units so its draining off the battery
change out the voltage regulator they didnt change your alternator they just rebuilt it or did nothing it sounds like
voltage regulator = adjusts the voltage
some are built on the alternator and is replaced at once with new alternator
others look like a little fin like an amp usually black in color this you will see bolted on the fender right or left this is a voltage regulator
somtimes you get a bad alternator in box when it can be new this is a chance chance cause now most parts are remand.
i still believe its your alternator you either of several things
got ripped off
got a bad alternator in replacement or
you got a bad voltage regulator by itself
looks like this
francis, 3 pin voltage regulators have the following;
1 pin is INPUT, let`s say 12 volts
1 pin is OUTPUT, let`s say 5 volts
1 pin is GROUND, all electronics equip. has to have a ground
the problem is they are not all wired internally the same so how do you tell which is input pin and which is output pin ? the best way to find this info is find the data sheet on-line. Google the letters NTE and click on their cross reference link and then enter the number on the front of your regulator and it will cross your device to NTE`s device and show you the info, hope this helps you, Happy Holidays BMW Rider
I have the same problem and it seems like it is going into thermal shutdown as ICs 104 and 106 are overheating which are fed from C138. All input source voltages seem to be correct and I do not get any voltage fluctuation from any input on the following regulator ICs. IC 106 3.3 VDC regulator is giving me 3.3VDC as a Output Source voltage and IC 104 5VDC regulator is giving me 5.0 VDC. IC102 15VDC regulator is giving 15VDC output and IC103
-15VDC regulator is constantly dropping voltage from the time of "Power On" until shutdown which takes about 5-7 minutes. I get right around -11VDC when shutdown occurs. ICs 102 and 103 are not overheating which leads me to believe that the IC 103 -15VDC regulator is faulty and putting a load on the other regulators which are trying to compensate for the voltage drop. I plan to replace the regulator with an NTE 969 replacement.
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