Hi, My Cyber Twin head died on startup yesterday. The Power amp works fine, digital (Solid State) amp models work fine, but all analog models will not produce sound. I have replaced the T1A and F2A fuses and both 12AX7's, but sitll no life.
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If you mean 3 x 12" drivers - being an odd no. is tricky if you need to maintain a particular impedance (important for Tube amps) but if solid state you have two choices (series and parallel) if all the drivers are sharing the same box space (i.e. the backs of the cones have a common airspace) - it is important to ensure that all drivers receive the same drive power so that the pressure remains equalised for all drivers. If your solid state amplifier can deal with very low impedances (e.g. 8/3=2.66 ohms) then maximum power can be achieved from the amplifier. If amp is rated for loads no less than 4 ohms, you would be better to take a power loss and go for safety and wire the speakers in series (e.g. 8 x 3= 24 ohms) - all competently designed direct coupled solid state amplifiers can deal comfortably with higher impedances, only down side is that power delivered will be much reduced.
If the drivers are in separate air spaces - then there more practical options - such as 2 in series and one in parallel with the series pair (resulting in 5.4 or so ohms for the combination assuming 8 ohm drivers) - note the single parallel driver will be recieving several times more power and should be placed in the centre of any array to maintain dispersion.
That's a nice amp head.... If it is still blowing fuses, you've got a dead short somewhere, that probably is in the power supply section. The power supply is solid state, (diodes for the rectifier), so either one or two didoes went bad or one of the big filter caps shorted out. Look for a blackened area around these components. Sometimes the caps will have just a "puffed-up" look to them, but.. BE VERY CAREFUL! Some tube amplifiers do not have bleeder resistors on the caps and they can hold a charge of up to 450 volts... Very dangerous! AND can KILL.
If you don't know what those components are, or how to use a volt/ohm meter, you should take it to a technician.
Hiya cant be certain but sounds alot like the pots are worn or could be dry joints (bad solder connections) Suggest you get it to someone who knows how to solder etc. Shouldn't be to much to get sorted
The Deluxe may have more efficient speakers....which would cause it to sound louder. Also, the EQ settings could play a part in this. If the EQ's aren't set the same there could be a noticeable difference in sound.....usually the mids can have quite an effect on overall amp volume....
1st off , check the connections from the head output jack to the speaker cab. If you can get hold of a meter , check the continuity on the cable (center wire to center wire , ground wire to ground wire) both should be about 0 ohms. Do you have another speaker cab you can try>?
You might have a speaker fuse internal on the amp too OR a secondary fuse on one of the power supply lines
It does involve changing a ROM chip in the amp, so it is more of a hardware upgrade to get the new firmware into your rig. The upgrade ROM can be ordered through a Fender dealer closest to you.
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I'm not a pro on amps but I have a Peavey Rage 158 amp, I'd suggest seeing if the speaker itself still works by directly connecting a source onto the speaker[take the wires off and hook it up to a source].
Try turning it on and checking the wattage going to the speaker wire, then follow the wire back and check the big coil with copper wire among other things.
A common problem with old amps are the tubes, check the tubes to see if they are burnt out [google it if you need a guide]
then check on ebay or maybe an electronic/guitar store.
If that didn't help, reply with more details
[If you don't want it ill take it off of you for $20 :p ]