Is the ge tbx19 defrost clock continious or cumulative?

Most modern refrigerators do not have defrost timers anymore. Instead, the main control board controls all of its functions. Older units would have a timer,much like a clock that would defrost every 6,8,or 10 hours if it needed it or not (some may have had a different time but these are the most common). With the main control, it will typically defrost every 8-10 hours of compressor run time. This cuts down on the cost to run it since the defrost cycle uses the most energy.

I am not sure why you are looking for this? you did not say what problem you are having but the main board is in the back, bottom right when you are looking at the back. You will see a rectangular metal plate with maybe 10 screws.

Hello:
Your model does not have defrost timer, instead the defrost is controlled by Main control board located on the back of the fridge..
Part # WR55X10942

PS.. Most common defrost problem on this model is not the board. Its either defrost heater or defrost thermostat..

you have a bad defrost clock or a bad defrost heater.

Good day,
It's an 8 hour cumulative running time control. It runs when the compressor runs, and as well the defrost thermostat in the freezer compartment is closed. That's for the running mode, in the defrost mode it runs whether the defrost thermostat is open or closed, and as well whether the thermostat is on or off.
If it's a defrosting problem, it could well be the defrost thermostat, and in rare cases the main heater. They are both located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
In order of frequency of failing,
1. Defrost thermostat
2. Timer
3. Main heater
4. Harness wiring plugs in the freezer compartment that connect these items.

There are 3 defrost components. The defrost heater, defrost thermostat, and defrost timer or Board. One or more are bad.

on the side of both defrost controls is a diagram black is normally power white is normally nuetral wire the black wire will go to the center of the switchs defrost heater
will be on one side compressor to the other white to the clock moter green was hooked to the metal case if you have a mutitester the clock moter will have constant continuity even after the timer has been turned till it clicks the heater will go on the contacts that have continuity for the shortest amount of time
on the back of most older units was a wiring diagram constant defrost has power even when t-stat is set to off
cumulative the defrost only has power when compressor is running the diagram on old defrost timer should be simaler to the diagram on the old defrost timer the lighter colered tab is normally white wire
hope you have a tester but if you are inclined hook up black and white only turn control till clicks when you have the black wire in the correct position the moter will run no matter where the control is turned
then find wire that starts compresser it will need to be placed on the switch that maintains contact the longest leaving the
heater wire to hook to the contact that stays closed for 20 to 30 minutes
most defrost controls wire the same be careful wiring is 120 volt

Hi! the problem you have stated indicates that the magnetron its not functioning, check for busted fuse.

Between the freezer and fresh food compartment is where the evaporator coils are. Frost free refrigerators aren't really frost free at all. Every 12 hours or 24 hours, a timer turns on a set of heating coils in the evaporator to melt the ice on them. If your refrigerator is otherwise functioning normally (normal cooling), it could be that you simply felt the divider it when the unit was self-defrosting.

Most refrigerators go through the defrost cycle unnoticed. When the cycle starts depends on when you plug in or turn on the refrigerator. If you'd prefer to change the time of your defrost cycle, simply unplug the refrigerator for an hour or two then plug it back in. Every hour it's unplugged will delay the defrost cycle one hour. To avoid having to remove food from the refrigerator, you might want to do this over several days, but it's cumulative so each time you unplug it for whatever length of time, it further delays the defrost cycle that length of time.

Your refrigerator has no idea what time it is (unless it's an electronic model with a built-in clock), so setting its timer to self-defrost in the middle of the night is an exercise in trial-and-error.

The other alternative... That the heater is turned on all the time... Would DEFINITELY affect the cooling capacity of the refrigerator and you'd notice that WAY before you'd notice the heat coming from the freezer/refrigerator compartment wall.

if it is mechanical timer, you can locate the timer and turn it clock wise slowly until you hear a click and the compressor will stop as well as the fans. that is the defrosting mode.

if it is electronics, then there would be no manual defrost. it is either a board problem, defrost heater, or bi-metal thermostat.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

It could be the defrosting clock usually positioned at front bottom behind the removable grill or in the back. This clock times the running and defrosting time, so if stuck on run it will never go to defrost cycle and the ice piles up.It has a one way slotted fit. Use a wide flat screwdriver to slowly turn the dial until compressor stops, (defrost cycle) this will not only stop compressor, but also turn on that tube heather you where talking about to melt ice off evaporator. Then wait (up to 30 minutes) to see if starts up again(run cycle). If it does not, clock needs replacement. You can then turn clock again slowly to turn compressor back on so you can use fridge until repaired. You can do this off and on daily to manually defrost unit until repaired. If this is not your problem it could very well be the heather tube, but they rarely go out.
Best I can do without being there, hope it helps you.
Frank