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TV HV I'm servicing a 25" TV..brand:TCL model: TCL-2560 First,it blowns the fuse,i replaced its switching transistor in primary,,then its ok...but it can't give picture because there's another problem in HV, there's arcing in anode cap wire{damaged}. is this may affect or damage the Deflection Yoke? can i replace the Flyback Transformer...or only its anode cap wire where the arcing is made? Thanks.

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  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

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  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

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  • Master
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Usually when thiers arching its usually inside the flyback connection that causes the arching.I reccomend changing the flyback.

Posted on Apr 13, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Micro wont heat. fix or replace? what could be the prob?


Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

Here are some problems you can have
  1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
  2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
  3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
  4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
  5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
  6. Damaged protective VDR from filament to chassis (not commonly used).
  7. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).
Microwaves must be serviced by technicians due to the inherent dangers involved in repairing these appliances. Internal capacitors can retain a lethal electrical charge even though the unit is completely unplugged. A microwave radiation leakage test must be performed on the unit following any internal component repair.

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Jan 05, 2011 | Kenmore 63792 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

I have the model FMAC101D1PS and now it's not heating. I press the minutes to heat, it run but it doesn't heat anyting.


Most likely causes are an open thermal protector or thermal fuse but could also be blown fuse in HV area of microwave (somewhat uncommon in domestic microwaves).
Less likely causes are failure of other parts in the HV area.



If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron (see repair manual link below).
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses (see repair manual link below).
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • For the various HV parts and how to test them follow this link: Microwave Repair Manual link.

A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.

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No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:


  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.


If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual

(**All the above references to tests are found here)

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