a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You just gotta get your gains set up right. Look Up "How To Set your Gains with a Multimeter" your over powering your subs or speakers and your amplifiers cant keep up. you also have to make sure your speakers are wired to the right ohms. your amp cant handle. if your amp cant handle, for Example:1 Ohms your gonna blow your amps. ......Speakers and subs are a science too.
I am not sure about the LED fault lights....but I have a few troubleshooting angles to provide a start:
Try checking the power supply at the output devices and compare with the good (Left) channel.
The distortion you are hearing may be due to low voltage.
This is a stereo amp, so you have a good (Left) channel to compare with. Use a multimeter to compare resistances (no power applied) or voltages (power on) at the components working back from the outputs of each channel.
When you find a difference you have located the faulty area.
If you can get an oscilloscope it can also be used to trace the path back from the output of each amp.
Have you checked the final transistors on that weak channel? They may look fine but may be weak. You can pull them and check them on your multimeter with the diode check and cross it with the data sheet for that transistor.
May be the problem is on the sound you are using is not a 5 channel coded sound or check in the menu´s of the amp if the rear channel´s have sufficient db output, check the connections, check if you amp. is not working only as simple stereo (menus also)
According to the specs for the xo 1945- the output is; 50W x 4 Max Power Output , and I do not see a pre amp output listed. So I think to connect subs, you will need a separate AMP.
The way this works; the rear speaker wires from the xo 1945 hook into the Add-on amp, for example a 4 channel amp. In a 4 channel amp, the rear speakers come off two of the channels of the add-on, and the subs come off the other two channels. There is also the option of bridging two channels for more output power to ONE sub.
You did not mention what size sub(s) you were thinking of adding, but keep in mind that the ox 1945 puts 50 watts MAX per channel. So, if you add two 12" subs and a 1500 watt amp to drive them, your total sound is going to be very uneven.
If you go on line and look up auto audio or amps, you'll get a good idea of all the Sub and amp options that are available.... Hope this helps.
If your amp looks like it's going to work as normal (ie the front display lights up as it should etc), but then the amp goes into protection mode when the anti-thud circuit times out, then I know what's likely to be wrong.
It's one of the power amplifier channels which has gone faulty.
I just found this out after having this problem with my AVR-1906.
I took the amp apart and de-soldered the suspected channel power transistors (centre channel in my case).....and hey-presto! it fired up as normal (obviously the centre channel would be out of service).
I have ordered the replacement transistors from Farnell (UK) at a miserly cost of around £2-£3 each.
Just waiting for them to arrive.
An alternative is, if you don't use all your channels, take the transistors from a known working but not needed channel and swap them over with the duff ones.
Grab yourself a test light and make sure that not only the 12v red power wire is putting out power but the thin blue or 12 volt turn on wire is also showing power. Then test the ground terminal and make sure u have a good ground. If that doesnt work try checking the amps fuses and check the fuse and connection on the battery. If everything checks out ok and the problem persists then put a small test speaker to the channel outputs and make sure that u are getting noise from those channels if you dont get any noise then u most likely have bad outputs and blown channels, you will need a new amp. Good luck, hope i was good help.
If you know how to use a multimeter, you can test the amp this way:
-unhook the subs -hook up a cheapie speaker you know for sure works to one of the channels -unhook the audio inputs -turn the amp on -set your meter to VDC -put the positive probe on the inside of the input connector, being sure you make contact with th inner contact -take the negative probe and tap it on the outside of the connector
What you are doing is sending a low voltage (replicating an audio signal) into the amp audio circuit and allowing the amp to amplify it. If the amp makes the speaker pop each time you strike the probe, the amp is working.
You mentioned you need a 4 channel amplifier make the two, dual voice coil subs operate. The is not true and by hooking them up like that, there's a chance of damaging the subs. The reason is that the dual voice coils are interwoven and they have to get electrically identical signals or they fight against each other. The can mechanically fail, then, electrically fail, then even damage the amp too.