I checked the wall current. its ok. I checked the start switch w/ dvom- it works. I checked the door switch- it works too. Since several people have had problems with the thermal switch, I wonder if that is my problem also. Please advise where the thermal switch is located, how to test it, and if bad how to replace it. Any info on part price and sourcing would also be appreciated. Email: I_M_BT@hotmail.com or phone 714 six -o-six- 9358
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
"Tested start switch and it appears to be working normally". You need to be absolutely sure if the start switch is working and isn't sticking, which it sounds like. Isolate the start switch completely and then check it again with your DVOM. Make sure the switch moves easily without sticking.
If there is power then the door switch is probably broken. first make sure that there is power to the machine. The door switch is tested with power off, accessing switch contacts and reading Ohms with a multimeter. When door is closed the switch must have continuity, reading zero or few Ohms. With door open the switch contacts read infinity (circuit open).
If the door switch is OK, test power cord, main switch, wiring harness, motor and timer.
I encountered the same problem. Turned out to be a blown thermostat, caused by too much moisture from the washer not spinning the delicate cycle enough and / or oversized dryer loads. Cut your load sizes in half and avoid using delicate cycles for cotton items. Very easy fix, Prices in the Midwest range from 30 to 40 USD. Godspeed.