Help!!! The door seal magically got twisted after my 15 year old son did a "small" load of towels. Now the machine makes horrible sounds (as if off balance). I am not using it until I can fix it. Please send any tips, tricks, or fix help. I may make the son wash clothes by hand from now on! Just kidding! Thanks, S.
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Re: replacing the door seal on a ghw9400pla
I can give you advice on how to replace the door seal, but I would also recommend you inspect the shocks when you remove the lower panel under the door. I could be wrong, but I'm not sure if the bellow being twisted will cause the vibration you are talking about. I believe there are four shocks on this model. If the washer was overloaded, it could have potentially damaged one of them as well.
advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing
machines. This is the door bellow replacement.Just follow these steps: 1.
Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm)
where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and
then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the screw(s)
behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above
the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off.
Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires
attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located
behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop
around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring.
Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the
rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will
also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of
the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is
on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as
long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the
front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care
to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in
a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the
bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on
either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that
are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom.
Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the
wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub.Also remove the boot from the fill tube
coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be
instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you
align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp
enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and
or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order
of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch
assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make
sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a
ridge on the tube where to stop.Sometimes
the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The
clamp is always difficult to get back in place.If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live
without it. Some newer models do not
have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot
fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back
over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around
the door. Beginning at the top of the
door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the
bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions,
you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the
spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use
a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has
the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button
under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the
washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and
"C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a
series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If
you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any
time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any
I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you. Post back if you need further assistance.
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Check the door seal size. Measure your door or doors, and take down the make and model number.
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2Order a replacement door seal.
It's easy to find them online. Make sure to check the model number for
your refrigerator when you order it. When it arrives, hold the new door
seal up against the old door seal to compare the size. The sizes are
rarely incorrect, but it will save you the trouble of doing the job
twice if you happened to receive the wrong door seal.
3Locate the screws.
Lift the edges of the seal and find the screws underneath that are
holding in the plastic liner and door seal. Often, the screws hold in a
plastic liner, which in turn clamps the door seal to the door.
4Loosen the screws.
Begin to loosen the screws that hold in the door seal. DO NOT take the
screws all of the way out. It is unnecessary and will create more of a
job for you. If at all possible, loosen only a few screws at a time, as
5Remove the old seal.
Once all of the screws are loose, the door seal should easily slide out
from behind the plastic liner. Don't be too forceful when doing this
step, since some plastic liners can be quite brittle and crumble if you
are too rough. If the plastic is old, replace it.
6Insert the new seal.
Begin slipping the small lip of the new door seal behind the plastic
liner of the fridge. The best method is to start in the top corners and
work your way around the door.
7Tighten the screws.
Once the door seal is in a certain section, you can begin tightening
the screws. Begin with the 8 corner screws, and then check the
alignment of the door while closed. Also check that the seal is even
and straight. If the door is twisted, you can easily manipulate the
door to twist back into shape whilst the screws are loose. Then tighten
the remaining screws.
Use a bit of baby powder or talcum powder to prevent sticking. Rub some
powder around the hinge side corners of the door seal, and where the
seal slides. This will help to prevent the door seal from twisting as
it meets the metal of the fridge. If this still doesn't prevent
twisting, then wedge a screwdriver under the seal as you close the door
and leave it shut for an hour.
9Check for gaps.
Look for any gaps in the door seal, especially at the top on the
opening side. These can form due to the door dropping or being out of
alignment. One way to check is to turn on a flashlight and place it
inside, then close the door and look for light.
10Fix any gaps in the door seal.
Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the
gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as
shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal.
Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix
the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it.
11Check the corners.
If the application of powder hasn't prevented the door seal twisting,
then wedge a screwdriver under the seal as you close the door and leave
it shut for an hour. The door seal will then have enough time to mould
into the correct shape.
You may need to replace the door seal. But first take some 100% pure silicone and push some in the hole and around the hole. Let this dry for 24 hours before using this should seal it up. If this does not work replace the door seal. Here is a link that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/washerdoorseal.html
place new seal in warm water for 15 min. start at one corner, remove appr 4 srcews in each direction pull old gasket down. now start to install new. continue to remove old and install new. make sure to remove weight from door. after your done place a film of vasoline on mating surface.i sometimes will roll a small amount of paper towel to insert where gasket is not wanting to pull up . push door firmly shut for a few days.
Most likely cause is the door seal or proper name for part is door bellows where the door seal to the machine. Check for tears or rips inside the bellows and any cuts where the door meets the seal. The seal could also be pronated toward the inner tub too much just from wear. The seal would need to be replaced. Also make sure the door is locking. The reason it happens with the towels (heavy load) is b/c they put more pressure on the door making it easier to break the water tight seal. Please rate this post.
The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.
PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.
CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.
LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.
NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.
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the plastic that you see overlapping the metal on the sides of the opening is in two parts, top and bottom, you can see the seem. the top is the smaller part, this plastic is also the drum support on the front. There are some glides on the top section that wear with time, after a few years they may need replacement. Perhaps these are worn out dropping the drum creating an uneven gap and catching. there is also a felt strip in there between the front of the dryer and the drum, keeping it back. To view this remove the top by removing the 2 screws inside upper door opening holding top down. then lift top and if plastic console slide to left then pull away, metal -just pull straight. remove 2 screws holding front to cabinet sides. pull front forward. glides are visible on top. if not there or worn thru plastic replace upper plastic support
Try not to wash large items with small items the large items like sheet will twist around the small item. causeing twisting and wrinkling. Also If you are overloading the clothes or underloading the clothes they will come out wrinkled. I would try to do some testing wash a load of only towels then wash a load of only t-shirts and other light weight items that you may have. Then do just a load of your jeans. What happens? Please let me know
This code is not on the list.
Push cancel twice
Select drain and spin
Select your cycle and push start.
If this does not clear the code, you will need a service call.
Before you do that I am wondering-Are you using an HE detergent and in small amounts? Are you loading the washer evenly- for example towels with towels lingerie with lingerie and jeans with jeans. Front loaders are very sensitive to how they are loaded. Check everything you can:
Turn off the washer and unplug it. Grab some old towels and a bucket.
Check the drain hose- is it twisted, squished or plugged ( you can turn off the washer unplug it and remove the drain hose to see if it is clogged.) While you are back there check the incoming water hoses are they twisted? Unscrew them from the washer and make sure the little filters at the ends of the hoses are not plugged, so that water is coming in freely. Make sure water valves are turned all the way on.
When you are back in front examine the door seal. Is it in good condition? Give the tub a spin with your hand. Does it spin freely and does it feel secure?
Check your dispensers. Are they clean and empty? if they are not try running an empty short cycle with just a little Hot water in the liquid dispensers to see if they are plugged.
Okay. Good luck to you. I hope this can be solved without a service call.
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the problem is your door seal if you close the door after a wash then what happens is the water goes mouldy on the inside of the door seal what you need to do is replace the door seal you will never get rid of the smell without replacing it never close the door after a wash always leave it open to make sure its your seal the easy way is to look at the inner part of the seal and it will be mouldy only thing you can do