Could it have to do with the temperature sensor? If it is still coiled up on the back of your heater, it may be turning the heater off. You need to uncoil the sensor wire, and place the sensor somewhere away from the heater. One sight said atleast 8" off the ground. (I have a Laser 73 and mine is about two feet to the right and about 8 foot up on my wall as I have a lot.) You can attach it to a board if you have to, or any other item. Just put it as far away from the heat of the heater as you can so it will only be sensing the room air temp. If the line needs to be longer you can cut in stereo wire (I read this online too). Then play with the heat settings to see at what temp it is most comfortable for you. Hope this solves the problem.
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Call manufacturer or Installer - Direct Vent Furnaces are not a DIY service. Carbon Monoxide is deadly and can easily be emitted if there is something wrong with the heater. Get professional help before anything further is done, as it needs a full inspection for your safety.
No. The Monitor has a male fitting going into the stove and a Toyo has a female. The diameters are not the same either. You want a Toyo exhaust pipe for your Toyo. The exhaust is is larger as is the air side. Don't mess around, get the right stuff.
My business is Laser Heating Service in the North Pole/Fairbanks area of Alaska. EE12 is the error code for overheating. Most likely you have a Laser 30 giving you this error code. The most common reason for the EE12 error code is that the Toyo is not getting enough air circulation across the heat exchanger and causing it to overheat. Look at the back of your Toyo where the black frame around the circulating fan and flue pipe is. You will see a screen that slides in a slot at the back of the Toyo. Slide the screen out and clean it. If you have a smoker or the Toyo is in a kitchen area where it collects nicotine or grease then you may need to clean it with hot water, detergent, or 409 Cleaner to get the sticky residue off that the dust fuzz collects on and clog your screen. EE12 can be caused by a couple other issues, but they are more rare. Try this first and let me know if it works! toyotechnician
My business is Laser Heating Service in the North Pole/Fairbanks areas of Alaska. An EE2 error code is usually fuel related. What does your Toyo do before the EE2 code shows up? If you let me know the sequence of events, I can trouble shoot the problem for you. toyotech
My business is Laser Heating Service in the
North Pole/Fairbanks areas of Alaska. An EE2 error code is usually fuel
related. What does your Toyo do before the EE2 code shows up? The firing process is the burner button blinks green for 7-9 minutes, then it clicks up to the medium, yellow light which starts flashing. That is when the fuel pump starts pumping. If you hear a fairly audible tic tic, or thump thump coming from the fuel pump then that is your indication that the fuel pump is starving for fuel. You either have a fuel line restriction, too little fuel, a clogged filter, a clogged sump screen, or rarely, a failing fuel pump. Usually, it is a fuel line restriction.
If you hear no tic tic or thump thump and it just goes off on EE2 then the problem is in the burn chamber. You may have a carbon chain in the chamber causing the flame sensor to temporarily short out. You can clean the flame sensor, fuel nozzle, and igniter to resolve this problem until you can get your Toyo tuned up.
What Does EE2 Mean? Laser 30, 56, and 73 model Laser heaters cease operation and display the EE2 code on the control panel (instead of the clock or temperature settings) when the primary flame rod on the heater fails to sense a flame during the first 5 minutes of the Ignition and Pre- Heat cycle. On the Laser 55 and 72 the heater will stop and the red Reset lamp will light rather than the EE2 code. (Note: There may be other reasons for the reset lamp to come on but much of this information will apply.) What Can Cause An EE2 Error? The primary flame rod is the only sensor in the heater that can cause the EE2 error. Thus, if it occurs, either there is (1) no flame to detect, or (2) the sensor failed to detect the flame. The flame rod is located on the lower 1/3 of the burner. It is a heavy wire with a ceramic insulator. A single white insulated wire connects this device to the main circuit board.