Question about GE PSS25NGNBB Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

TEMPERATURE CONTROL PROBLEM

My fridge has a digital temperature control. It will not let me reset to proper temperature. It keeps running cold and freezing my food. The freezer is working fine though. I did buy a thermometer to read the inside temp and it matches the number on the display. Just can't change the temp on the thermostat. Do I need a new thermostat?

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  • Anonymous Mar 11, 2009

    samer problem - control panel stuck on 9 - highest setting

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Yes

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

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The temp says 14 and 8 but should be -21 and 3? Can anyone help


Controlling the Freezer temperature
The freezer temperature can be set between -14°C (8°F) and -25?C (-14°F) to suit your particular needs. Press the freezer button repeatedly until the desired temperature is shown in the temperature display. Keep in mind that foods like ice cream may melt at -16?C (4°F). The temperature display will move sequentially from -14°C (8°F) and -25?C (-14°F). When the display reaches -14?C (8°F), it will begin again at -25?C (-14°F). Five seconds after the new temperature is set the display will again show the actual current
freezer temperature. However, this number will change as the Freezer adjusts to the new temperature. The top and bottom guards in the freezer of this model are the two star sections, so the
temperature in two star sections are slightly higher than other freezer compartment.

Controlling the Fridge temperature
The refrigerator temperature can be set between 7?C (45°F) and 1?C (34°F) to suit your particular needs. Press the fridge button repeatedly until the desired temperature is shown in the
temperature display. The temperature control process for the Fridge works just like the Freezer process. Press the fridge button to set your desired temperature. After a few seconds, the Fridge will
begin tracking towards the newly set temperature. This will be reflected in the digital display. The temperature of the freezer or the refrigerator may rise from opening the doors too frequently, or if a large amount of warm or hot food is placed in either side. This may cause the digital display to blink. Once the freezer and refrigerator return to their normal set temperatures the blinking will stop.
If the blinking continues, you may need to "reset" the refrigerator. Try unplugging the appliance, wait about 10 minutes and then plug back in.

The refrigerator does not work at all or it does not chill sufficiently.
• Check that the power plug is properly connected.
• Is the temperature control on the display panel set to the correct
temperature? Try setting it to a lower temperature.
• Is the refrigerator in direct sunlight or located too near a heat source?
• Is the back of the refrigerator too close to the wall and therefore keeping air from circulating?

Dado

Jul 19, 2015 | Samsung RSA1UTMG American-Style Manhattan...

2 Answers

Westinghouse RJ532, 530 Litre, Frost Free Fridge/Freezer keeps stopping - if we move the little red dial in the fridge under the air temperature control it starts up again, goes for awhile and then stops....


If the refrigerator was tipped on back or side, even part way, it has to wit upright at least overnight, because of the freon flowing upward.
If you just moved in and it has been sitting and unplugged, then it may be low on freon.

Here are some tips


If you open the fresh food compartment of your fridge (the non-freezer compartment), you will most likely see two different controls. One refers to the refrigerator temperature and the other refers to the freezer. Different manufacturers use different wording, but the idea is the same.
The first thing you need to know in order to understand what these controls really do is that all the cold air in the entire refrigerator is made in the freezer compartment. A portion of that cold air is then blown into the fresh food compartment. How much cold air gets blown in is controlled by the "freezer" control, which is really just an air baffle that opens or closed to let more or less air into the fresh food compartment. The "refrigerator" control is actually a thermostat that feels the temperature inside the fresh food compartment and turns the compressor on and off according to the temperature that the thermostat feels.
Let’s run through an example. Suppose you decide that your ice cream isn’t hard enough. You adjust the "freezer" control to make your freezer colder. What you’re actually doing is restricting the amount of cold air that gets blown from the freezer into the fresh food compartment and so keeping more of the cold air in the freezer. As a result, the freezer will get colder but also the fresh food compartment will tend to get warmer because its cold air supply has been diminished. The "refrigerator" control (the thermostat) will feel this increase in temperature inside the fresh food compartment and will keep the compressor running longer in order to maintain the temperature setting on the "refrigerator" control. So, you can see that any change you make to one control will affect the other.
Many people then wonder, "Well, how do I know what the correct setting on the controls should be?" Since the temperature inside a refrigerator will vary according to lots of external factors such as frequency and duration of door openings, it is impossible to say where your controls should be set all the time in order to maintain a desired temperature in the freezer and fresh food compartments without knowing the actual temperature inside both compartments. For this reason, you should place two thermometers in your refrigerator: one in the fresh food compartment (the big one) and the other in your freezer. The controls should then be adjusted to achieve -10 to +10ºF in the freezer and between 36 and 38ºF in the fresh food compartment.
Keep in mind, too, that it takes 24 hours for any change in the controls to work through the system and reach steady state so don’t look for instantaneous changes in temperature when you make control setting changes. Knowing the actual temperature inside your refrigerator compartments is also a great way to save money on your power bill since you can adjust the controls to avoid running your compressor longer than needed to keep your food cold.

Mar 16, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer alarm goes off even though the freezer temperature is below -20C. The compressor runs continuously.


From the sound of it the temperature control is bad. I'm only stating this because if the cold control (temperature control) isn't converting the temperature to electrical signal properly, the machine will constantly run trying to reach the set temperature the cold control is set at. Question, is there a digital display showing the temperature or did you use a meter or thermometer to check it, and how is the temperature set, by a digital control or a dial, rheostat or any other type of manual control?

Jun 21, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Temperature not working


Hello,

Before replacing the refrigerator's temperature controls, you should do some basic troubleshooting to make sure the problem stems from a defective control and not some other problem. The most obvious thing to check is that the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power from the outlet. If it is running, but not cooling, it could be due to dirty condenser coils or a defective door seal. Once the coils are clean and the door seal has been checked, you can be pretty confident that the problem is the temperature controls.
There are usually two control knobs, one that controls the temperature of the freezer and one that controls the refrigerator. Although they appear to be independent controls, it is important to understand that the cold air comes solely from the freezer area into the refrigerator compartment. The freezer control determines how much cold air the condenser produces while the refrigerator control adjusts the flow of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. If there is no cold air on either side, it is probably the freezer control that is at fault. The procedure to replace the control switch is the same for the refrigerator control and for the freezer control.


Even though we have gone through this troubleshooting, it is still a good idea to test the control mechanism before replacing it. You will need a multitester and possibly needle-nose pliers and a screwdriver for the testing. First, unplug the refrigerator so you don't get shocked. Then, remove the temperature control's dial and/or housing. The dial will just pull straight off, but the housing may have screws holding it in place. After removing the housing, just let it hang by its wires. There should be two wires attached to the control. Label them before disconnecting so it is easier to put back together. Remove the wires by pulling on the slip-on connectors, not the wires themselves. Needle-nose pliers may be needed to remove these connectors from the terminals, especially if the refrigerator is old.
Set the ohms setting on your multitester to X1 and attach one probe to each terminal. Turn the temperature control to off or to the warmest setting if there is no off position. The multitester should give you a reading of infinity if the control is on off and a reading of near infinity if there is no off position. Then turn the control to the coldest setting and retest. Now, the multitester should give you a reading of zero. If both of these tests are not passed, the control needs to be replaced.

You already have the dial part of the temperature control disassembled, but there is also a temperature probe attached to it. Remove all fasteners holding on the existing probe and take note of the path of the probe. Install the new temperature probe along the same path as the original. Do not bend at a sharp angle and try to avoid bending more than necessary so the probe does not get damaged. Attach the refrigerator's wires to the new temperature, replacing the connectors if corroded. Replace the switch and any necessary housing screws you removed earlier. Plug in the refrigerator and set the temperature control to the midpoint setting. The refrigerator should start cooling down within one to two hours.
Note that,

The thermostat – that part of your fridge that controls the temperature – may be one of the smallest parts, but of course it is also one of the most important. The thermostat can not easily be repaired – generally speaking, if you have a faulty thermostat you will almost certainly need to have it replaced.
There are several warning signs that the temperature inside the fridge is not what it should be. An obvious sign that the temperature is too cold inside the fridge is when liquids – milk, soda or orange juice, for example – are partly frozen. Similarly, if your freezer or ice compartment is kept too cold, ice will form on the outside of packets of food that are stored in there. The bottom part of your fridge is the coldest part – you can always try putting produce and other sensitive food items on a higher shelf. Ice or frost forming on the inside walls of the fridge also indicates a problem. Food that spoils before it should is also a sign that your fridge may be too warm.


Before you spend the time and money replacing the thermostat, here are some tests you can perform to see if it is the thermostat that is faulty, or some other problem. If you feel the temperature in your fridge is not what it should be, firstly try the obvious: make sure the temperature control is set correctly. The ideal temperature for the fridge should be between 38 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and for the freezer temperature between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature setting may have arbitrary numbers on it, (for example 1 through 9, warmest to coldest) and simply moving this control to the next setting up or down may solve the problem. Depending on the age and make of your fridge, there may be separate temperature controls for both the fridge and freezer. Check the manufacturer’s manual that comes with your fridge to find the suggested setting for the temperature control – or call the manufacturer if you don’t have the manual. Most companies have a toll free help or troubleshooting number to call.
If you are technically minded, it is possible to easily unscrew the temperature dial, and then remove the actual temperature control box, taking care not to pull any wires away. You can then test the temperature control using a hand held device called a continuity tester probe. Set the control dial to its coldest setting, and then attach the probe. If it lights up, then this indicates a closed circuit with no obvious problem in the electrical system. Make sure your fridge is unplugged while you do this.

If your fridge temperature is too low and you cannot make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, it may be one of several other parts that are causing the problem – there may be a leak in the refrigerant system, a defective air damper, or a situation known as cold air migration, which occurs in ‘side by side’ fridge/freezer models. Poor cooling can also be caused by frost building up on the evaporator coils – a vital part of the fridge that you cannot easily see without removing a panel on the inside of the freezer. A sure sign of this is if you see slight icing or frost build up on the inside walls, or floor of the fridge. If your fridge is self-defrosting, it may be a faulty defrosting mechanism that is causing the ice or frost build-up. One way to test this, although it is not particularly convenient, is to take everything out of the fridge, leave the door open and turn the thermostat off for at least 24 hours. Once the ice build up has disappeared, put the thermostat back on its normal setting – if the fridge then cools properly, there is probably a problem with some part of the defrosting system.

There are other ways to test that the thermostat is keeping your fridge as cool as it should. A good method of accurately checking the temp over a period of time is to leave a glass of water in the fridge for 24 hours; or a glass of cooking oil in the freezer. You can also use a thermometer – a meat thermometer is good for this. Also check the door seal and the door catch on your fridge – something as simple as the door not closing fully can cause a slight temperature increase inside the fridge. And leaving the refrigerator door open for long periods of time can also cause the inside temperature to warm up.

If you are lucky though, you may never need to repair your fridge – the average lifespan of a refrigerator is about 15 years, making them one of the most reliable and longest lasting of household appliances.



Good luck in solving the problem......

Aug 15, 2010 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

We have a Hoover No frost refrigerator/freezer. There is no control for the fridge temperature which is now running very cold (it freezes drinks, etc.). What can I do to increase the temperature of the...


The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

Apr 16, 2010 | Hoover HCA391FFK Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Freezer is working OK but fridge is warming up - would this likely be a control board problem?


Not likely. Assuming you have tried adjusting the temperature control, a more likely suspect would be a problematic evaporator fan. This fan is located (usually behind an access panel) in the freezer. Its purpose is to move cold air throughout the freezer and the refrigerator. If the fan fails, there may be enough cold air to keep the freezer cold; but there is not enough to keep the refrigerator at the proper temperature.

If the fan is running, you should be able to hear it. If you can't, open the access panel and look at it. If it's not turning, you likely need to replace the fan motor.

Oct 18, 2009 | Samsung RB2155 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

3 Answers

Hotpoint ffa97p - the fridge is too cold and not responding to temperature changing


I'm assuming you're meaning that you reset the "cold control" in the refrigerator area and it is not responding. Try resetting the T stat in the freezer to between 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 and see if the unit continues to run on. If I have this the other way around, set the "cold control" the same as the T stat. The "cold control" is just a flapper door, it doesn't control the compressor only the T stat in the freezer does..
If the T stat is set as I said and the unit just keeps on running and never shuts down except to defrost, the T stat is bad and needs replaced.
There is a chance that the flapper door in the "cold control" is stuck wide open. Removing the cover and inspecting it might tell you if that's happening.

Jul 09, 2009 | Hotpoint Refrigerators

1 Answer

Jenn-Air JCD 2295 Refrigerator


I would say the cold control may be bad.If the fridge is getting too cold it sounds like the control is not shutting the unit down when it gets to temp. You can check the cold control with a OHM meter and see if it is working properly. If it is not you will need to replace it and your refrigerator should work fine.

Jul 15, 2007 | Jenn-Air JCD2290HES Side by Side...

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