Question about Easy Flo EF1400 Central System Vacuum

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Motor My vacuum cut out as I was using it. After some experimenting I found that the circuit reset had gone off. When I tried a second time while near the motor , there was a flash and again the motor shut off. At this time I am guessing that the motor is faulty. The central vacuuming is approximately 12 years old.

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If it tripped the reset again, I would probably agree with you. Check out centralvacuum.com for another motor. They aren't the cheapest, but they have excellent support. Good Luck!!

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Turn vacuum on it run for a few seconds then stops power on light is blinking


Whats your model number? A lot of machines contain a circuit that cuts the motor power when it gets to hot. Try cleaning/replacing filters and a fresh bag.

Dec 17, 2013 | Hoover Vacuums

Tip

How To Replace The Thermal Overload Switch on Hoover Windtunnel Uprights



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover Ultra U6430-900 WindTunnel Bagged...

Tip

Replacing The Thermal Reset Switch on Hoover Windtunnel Self-Propelled Vacuums



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover U6630-900 WindTunnel Bagless...

2 Answers

My dyson handheld charges fully, but keeps cutting out when using. About 7 seconds is the longest continual usage time


Your battery is losing voltage too quick. It has probably developed a 'memory'. Dyson claims that their handheld has the best suction out of all the handhelds out there. In order to maintain that claim the circuit board will shut off power to the motor when the voltage drops below adequate charge for full suction.
We need someone who can teach us to bypass that part of the circuit so it won't cut power to the motor or you need to replace the battery.
Shorting the battery like an Aircraft battery then re-charging won't fix it.

May 21, 2011 | Dyson DC16 Root 6 Bagless Handheld...

2 Answers

I have a Hoover Mach 2.7 Windtunnel that shut off during use and wouldn't turn back on. Was doing kitchen floor and running fine. Though a breaker tripped but didn't...what could it be?


Hello,

It sounds like your thermal reset switch inside of your Hoover may have gone bad. When a vacuum cleaner doesn't turn on it, it's either caused by one of four things.
  1. Electrical Short in your Cord.
  2. Plug has gone bad.
  3. Motor of your vacuum is faulty
  4. The On / Off Switch has gone bad, and/or your Thermal Reset Switch has gone bad
Since this happened while you were vacuuming, I would guess that this is either your electrical plug that's shorted out, or that your thermal reset switch has shorted out. Your model Hoover was built with a protection system that is supposed to automatically shut down your machine if it senses any excessive heat. This mechanism is controlled by a Thermal reset switch which is located in motor compartment. This part is notoroious for failing, even when there's no overheating that's occured.

Before you disassemble the entire machine to check this part though, I would try testing the On / Off switch in your machine, as well as testing the electrical cord, which will also let you know if your plug has gone bad.

Here's a link to a solution I've done here on FixYa explaining how to check the On / Off switch;
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4530569-replace_off_switch_hoover_windtunnel

While you have this apart, you can use the same electrical tester to test your cord. Simply put one end of the test into the terminal from the switch, and the other end of the test on one of the metal prongs that plugs into the wall. See if you have continuity here, if not, switch to the other prong of the plug and see if this helps.

If not continuity, this means your plug, or your cord has failed. If you do have continuity, this means that it's either the On / off switch, or the Thermal Reset Switch that's gone bad.

Here's a link to the solution that I've done on here showing how to replace the Thermal Reset Switch on your vacuum cleaner:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4999778-replace_thermal_overload_switch_hoover

If you'd like some more help diagnosing this vacuum, please feel free to just use the comment field on the bottom of this page. I'm always happy to help you do some more advanced diagnosing, or answer any questions you may have.

If you found this solution helpful, please be so kind and rate this repair helpful, or leave feedback for me. This is greatly appreciated by the FixYa community. Thanks so much,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

Jan 10, 2011 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

Tip

How To Repair Thermal Switch Hoover Windtunnel Upright



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

1 Answer

Electrical supply cuts out after a few minutes use


Sounds like the motor is overheating and cutting out. The motor has a protection device that automatically resets when the motor cools down.
The most common cause of overeating is blocked or dirty filters. Don't be fooled by Dyson's "lifetime filters". They need to be cleaned and/or replaced regularly.
If after cleaning/renewing filters it still does it, you need a new motor as the trip device is not available separately. New motors can be found on eBay quite cheaply but it requires some special tools and good DIY skills to do it. Have a look at www.dysonmedic.com to see if you you think you can do it, but if not it's time to call a repair shop or the Dyson helpline.

Oct 29, 2010 | Dyson DC07 Animal Bagless Upright Cyclonic...

1 Answer

Bissell won't start


no reset (self resetting motor) Pull the plu,g leave it off for a day, plug it in a try it again tomorrow. If it doesn't work, the motor is gone

You also need to make sur ethat you get the vacuum back together correctly, some vacums put a swithc in there so that you can't hurt yourself while performing this repair

Feb 01, 2009 | Bissell 3594 CleanView PowerTrak Bagless...

1 Answer

Possible reset on Thermal Cut-Off


This is not really expert advise but I have a vaccuum with hepa filters and if the filters get dirty My vaccuum acts like your what you are describing.

Jan 07, 2009 | Eureka Vacuums

2 Answers

My Miele s558 Silver moon vacuum just stops suddenly while vacuuming. I can start it again using the button on the handle of the hose. It is erratic, doesn't SEEM to be due to overheating. I read online...


This is caused by a circuit board problem in the hose. Unfortunately, the only way to fix this problem is to purchase a new SES 125-3 hose. The good news is that the new production hoses have rectified this problem and you will not experience it again.

-R

Aug 25, 2008 | Miele Vacuums

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