I have a 2006 roadliner that needs the front tire replaced. Thought I could save a few bucks if I pulled the wheel offf myself and took it to a shop to chang the rubber out. I have the bike up on a lift and is ready to go but feel a little uneasy about pulling it off. Friends say it should be a piece of cake, what do you think? Could you talk me through it? Steve

What is your issue? My experience is mostly with Ford but, with a few exceptions, these systems are basically the same. I had a 2006 Ford Freestyle with traction control and on demand all wheel drive meaning that it was front wheel drive until the front wheels began to slip. Then the back wheels would kick in. I was warned by Ford that I had to watch my tire wear. If there was more than 2/32nd inch difference in tread depth between the tires, the traction control system would would mistake this for tire slippage and cause the all wheel drive and / or traction control to activate. This is not good on dry roads especially for the AWD transfer case. I couldn't just replace two tires. It had to be in sets of four or if my tires were 1/2 worn and one had to be replaced due to damage. The one would have to be replaced with a used one of like tread depth or all four would have to go. The real fun started when I replaced a rear axle bearing. I went to Autozone and bought a made in China special. The car had over 120 K miles on it and I'm on a fixed income so I thought I'd save a buck. UH HUH. While disassembling the rear axle bearing, I didn't know that my anti lock brake sensor was inside the housing where the bearing went. When I got the bearing out, I dropped the axle on this plastic piece. I put everything back together and took it for a test drive. At 40 MPH, my instrument cluster lit up like a slot machine, my gauges went to zero and my transmission wouldn't shift right. I replaced the sensor to no avail. I took back the bearing and exchanged it. I took it apart literally 7 times looking for metal chips interfering with the magnetic sensor for the ABS or any possible mistakes on my part. Finally, for $84.00, I took it to Ford. They put it on their computer and took it for a ride. It showed that the repaired wheel was going 5 MPH SLOWER than the other 3!!! As it turns out, the proper bearing has 8 fingers inside it that the ABS sensor counts during every revolution. If it counts these fingers faster or slower than on the other wheels, it activates the traction control / all wheel drive. If it stays activated too long, the computer looses it's mind. Ford said that these must have been missing from the cheap bearing and it was counting the bearing rollers instead. I took this bearing back and exchanged it for a MOOG brand and went on my merry way. Ford said that a guy was in there with a front wheel drive only car with similar problems. He had bought a cheap set of bearings on line but they were made of non-magnetic stainless steel and his sensors weren't seeing them at all. I know that this is long and drawn out but this is the extent of my knowledge of traction control. I hope that this helps in some way. Good luck.

If you have not hit anything 95 percent of the time it is a tire issue. Can even be a tire issue if you hit something. Broke a belt in the tire. One of the weights came off the rim. I had a garage swear it was a tire rod end once and it did not fix it. Turned out they did not even check the tires. Turned out to be a busted belt and a missing weight. Could have saved myself 800 bucks in labor

pull off wheel and check brake pads low,caliper sticking ,or debris -if brakes look good than check hub-wheel bearing----- may be going bad

they can get stuck on the hub. just kick it or hit the tire with a big hammer and it will come loose.

A few possibilities.... bent rim, broken steel belt in tire, or a wheel weight that keeps the tire/wheel combination in balance has fallen off. Not sure how big the bump was, so other options would be suspension related. I would check the tire and/or wheel first.

Some tire pressure monitoring systems don't care if the wheels were put back on in the same position they were in originally.Unfortunately I think Subaru's do.If the light hasn't turned within a few miles of driving you will need to have your monitoring system reset.Most tire shops have the needed scanners but if they don't,do you Have a Discount Tire in your area? The last I heard they do this for free.Good Luck!

My roadliner has been in the shop for a month while they tried to isolate a similar noise. After several failed attempts, they claim to have solved it by replacing the regulator. I will pick up the bike tomorrow and see for myself.

Yes you can do this; the bearings are sealed unit hubs; very easy the cost is only about $70 each at an auto parts store. once you look at them you'll know how to do this.