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if the bike is fuel injected- the pump is in the fuel tank.. if the bike has carburetors- there is normally no fuel pump- the fuel gravity feeds from the tank thru the petcock valve into the carbs
This pump is a bit strange to use. The valve in the filler head is odd in that it controls the flow of air in both direction...which is not a great design in my opinion...but it does allow for use in different filling applications. The trick is getting the pump into its different filling "modes"
For a Schrader bike valve: 1. Make sure the pump is in "tire mode" by blowing into the valve with your mouth. If you then pump the handle you should feel air filling your mouth. 2. Put the "locking lever" in the unlocked position, the unlocked
position is when the silver metal lever is parallel to the air hose, or
said another way it makes an "L" with the air outlet that goes on the
tire air filling stem. To verify this is correct, look in the air outlet and move
the lever from locked to un-locked, you will see slight
change in the diameter of the outlet. 3. Push the air filler hole over the schrader valve really hard and
make sure it is seated all the way down. Close the "locking lever"
(silver metal lever should now be perpendicular to the air house and be
in line with the air outlet... i.e. point straight out away from the
tire filler stem.
4. Pump.
For a Presta bike valve:
1. Make sure the pump is in "tire mode" again. 2. Take off plastic caps off presta valves on bike tire. 3. Unscrew the little nut on the presta stem to allow the tire valve
to open when pressure is applied (you can test this by pushing the stem
in a little and air should escape, the nut holds the valve closed, so
it needs to be loosened). 4. Take the adapter from the locking lever (silver metal lever) on
the pump and screw it on the presta valve. The adapter is the brass
looking thing. Screw the rubber gasketed side down on the presta valve.
5. Press the air pump tire filler outlet onto the adapter.
6. Close the locking lever to seal the filler head on the adapter.
7. Pump. 8. Unlock the locking lever and pull it off quickly.
9. Unscrew the presta adapter and screw down the presta valve nut but just finger tight.
10. Screw on the plastic cover cap for the presta valve.
To Fill a Ball:
1. Twist the ball pin filler out by rotating the gray plastic tab
around until the ball pin filler is pointing straight out (in-line with
the air hose).
2. Make sure the pump is in "Ball mode" by again blowing into the filler. Sometimes shaking the filler valve really hard is necessary. 3. Put the filler pin into a ball.
4. Pump.
That will entirely depend on how much you want to pressurize these things. Surprisingly, glue does not hold a high tensile strength. I would be nervous using anything higher than 20psi. I don't know what pressure the glue will go up to, but if it breaks at higher than 20psi, it starts to become dangerous.
good luck
A better answer than 'just replace the fuse', is to install a new lighter socket near the battery with a new fuse holder and a heavy enough fuse and wiring to sustain the current draw of the air pump. Connect the wiring (with fuse) directly to the battery connections. Hope this helps.
There are two styles of valves on bicycle inner tubes. The commonly used style is called Presta, and it is characterized by a thin, threaded brass stem with a head that has a threaded pin in it. This has a small nut pressed on that must be unscrewed to fill it with air. The other style (which resembles the valves on a car's tire) is called Schrader. Bicycle air pumps can handle both styles, but some require a reconfiguration of the pump's valve to make the change from one style to the other. This involves unscrewing the head and removing the parts inside. The details on these processes and the styles of valves on your bicycle will be found in the air pump manual.
The switchbladenozzles web site is down, but here is the content from the trouble shooting page circa 2008 from archive.org:
(SCHWINN BIKE) PUMP • Using the SWITHCBLADE pump nozzle (both 5-in-1 and 4-in-1):
EXPLAINING THE INTERNAL SWITCHING MECHANISM To get best results from your SWITCHBLADE equipped pump, it is helpful to understand how the automatic switching
mechanism works. The internal switch (changing the air from flowing to the hole for bike tires to the needle for
sport balls) senses back pressure from the object you are trying to inflate. When you insert the needle into the
ball, (or put the nozzle on a bike tire valve) the back pressure inside the ball (or tire) flows into the nozzle
and pushes the switching mechanism to shut off the outlet you are not using.
PROBLEM: Air is escaping through the wrong outlet
NOTE: In the case of a new pump/nozzle OR a pump/nozzle that has not been used for a long time, it is possible
excess lubricant used in the manufacturing process and/or dirt have caused the switch to stick in place. Don NOT attempt to block the outlet you are not using. Common sense tells you to do this, but in fact it will
only create back pressure in the channel you do not want to use and actually further block air from being
directed to the correct outlet.
FIRST SOLUTION After making sure your nozzle is firmly attached to the tire valve (or in the case of a sport ball, the needle
is firmly and completely inserted into the ball) give three to five quick firm strokes of the pump. Doing this
should create enough back pressure in the nozzle to free up the mechanism and activate the switch.
SECOND SOLUTION In certain circumstances, the two most common of which are a brand new bicycle inner tube (note: many new inner
tubes actually have NEGATIVE pressure inside, as they have had the air sucked out of them at the factory to make
it easier to put the tube inside the packaging) or a totally flat sport ball, rapid firm pumping may not be
enough to activate the switch. In these cases do the following:
SPORT BALL: Insert needle is firmly and completely into the ball. Give the ball a hard squeeze (this will force air up the needle and trigger the internal switch).
I think this is a simple gravity feed to the carbs. It's possible you require some vacuum from the intact manifold to open the flow. Some Honda Nighthawks are set up that way.
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