I bought a new Lp rock shakers. It says "Unique fill cap allows players to adjust the amount or type of fill to personalize the sound" BUT HOW DO I DO IT....? DO i remove the pebbles from the hole knob on the side....? please advice me....!! thank you...;-)

sounds like a bad tube or your transformers shot

There is a narrow padding strip that runs under all the keys going across. It is made of a type of felt. It is worn or torn in that spot. If you are careful and have some mechanical skill at opening the unit, you will see it, it should be a pretty simple fix to glue the felt back (if torn) or even to glue a small piece of felt in that spot to raise the key, which will allow full movement again so it would feel pretty close to normal again.

Here is a link to the manual for this unit, it shows a few settings and explains the controls for you pretty well, like this "transtube" feature. You will never get the sound of those you listen to on albums or radio unless you use a lot of expensive equipment but you can get a pretty good imitation of it if you get the hang of the controls.

http://www.peavey.com/assets/literature/manuals/80301112.pdf

I can't give you much information other than to tell you the idea of adjustable crossovers is to allow adjustments to suit the acoustics of the room or space where they are sited, a function that used to be common but has largely been replaced by the graphic equaliser, popularly used to adjust the sound to suit personal preference but originally was intended to be used with a white or pink noise generator and adjusted to compensate for mechanical and electronic "inefficiencies" of hi-fi systems to produce a pure sound.

The best advice I can offer you is to start hanging with a few hi-fi nuts to learn what you need to know and lots more. Positioning the speakers is very important for a good sound and popular and inexpensive mod is to fit spiked feet to them or lift them clear of the ground on purpose built stands...

Adjust the CD level at the CD player itself. Truly independent adjustment is probably not possible on this small system.

First thing is that if you bought MATCHED pairs of the EL34's a COMMON mistake is to install the pairs wrong. Correctely install a pair as the OUTSIDE tubes of the line and then the remaining pair as the middle two tubes of the line of tubes before biasing.

Funny thing, I just ran across this problem you have with a Bedrock brand amp that uses the same configuration as your V3 tube does. This is really a stupid configuration engineering wise as they tie a plate at high voltage to the grid of the second stage in the tube as a cathode follower, This means that the second section has the cathode at a reasonably high voltage relative to the heater with wide audio swings on it as well... Tubes are NOT designed to work that way and result in noisy behavior, One would have to select tubes that have very low heater to cathode leakage in the second section of the tube... What you are seeing is the result of very poor engineering practice. Marshall is probably testing tubes for the leakage and branding them as such...

I think that designers of this circuit have NOT had experience with tubes and have applied transistor type designing to this use... it is plain stupid and myself I would re-engineer the circuit if it was mine or build a tube tester capable of measuring the heater cathode properties to select a suitable tube to use.

Try asking this on:

organforum.com

the closer to the strings the greater the magnetic pull. it's a personal variable to the player.basically how aggresive of a sound you want

It sounds like a filter capacitor(s) has failed. The electrolytic caps dry out and cease to perform allowing unfiltered power to reach the preamp sections and get amplified.

Being this is tube with high voltages, an experienced person should work on it due to shock danger.

I assume you checked the tubes for shorts as well as emission since a heater to cathode short could cause this as well.

I can understand it a bit of a daunting task setting up these guitars (I have bought at least 5 like this) But yes it might be the truss rod ... Without looking at the guitar myself its hard to say ... If you tighten the truss rod remember how much you turned the allen wrench because if it doesnt work your going to need to reset it and start again ... Remember to turn it the right way! and if all else fails ... If your near me (Bournemouth, South of the UK) then you can always pop on over to mine and I can take a look at it.

Failing that just take it to your nearest guitar repair shop and a setup should cost you about £30 if your in the UK.