Symptoms: 4.5 yr old dryer will not start. Worked perfectly in present location/setup for 1 yr, as recently as yesterday evening.
I've checked to be sure that the wiring is connected properly, plugged in properly and that the breaker is not tripped. Door is securly closed; lent filter and exhaust free of debris. Pushing "start" knob fails to start machine.
My dryer want start put in a new thermal fuse and a door switch my light bulb still doesn't go on when door opens could it be burned out and causing the dryer not to start? Or could it be the timer?
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Oct 14, 2011 - Uploaded by PartSelect
In this video you'll learn why your dryer might not be starting. ... If it makes noise but won't start trying spinning the drum empty ten times then close door and try it. ... I changed the door switch and still gives code AU. any suggestions .... thermal fuse everything seems good except my dryer won't come on!!!.
It appears your motor/motor controller has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD /
WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share
my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG
washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD
should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features
available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However,
WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features
are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual
downloaded from http://126.96.36.199/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my
Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of
common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for
Trouble date: January 2006
Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.
Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More)
didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was
quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB
Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without
“Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were
dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.
Trouble date: March 2008
Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.
Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First
diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in
dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also
thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint
but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.
Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.
Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced
to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a
separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at
2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while
the kitchen timer was still running.
Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and
4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when
the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes
were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.
Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.
Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.
Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare
with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying
cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be
sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side
of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the
Duct Assembly (condensing).
Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.
Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in
manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the
Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side.
Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case
Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or
visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and
Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the
heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush.
Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the
Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were
moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and
do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse
entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint
would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain
hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to
worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a
suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end.
Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before
re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.
Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB
Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and
it appears to be so for many users as well.
User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should
not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning
maintenance is required.
If the machine fills and agitates but does not drain, something is probably wrong with the drain hose or the pump. The fact that the washer fills and agitates tells you that the motor works and the belt is okay (though some units have a separate belt for the pump and direct-drive washing machines don't have belts).
1) Be sure the drain hose isn't kinked.
2) Check the tab on the lid that strikes the lid switch; if it is broken, the washer may stop during the drain cycle. Press and release the lid switch: if it doesn't click each time you do this, it's probably broken. If you're experienced at home repair, you can remove the switch, test it, and replace it if needed; otherwise, call an appliance repair service person.
3) The water pump may be broken or clogged with a small article of clothing or the controls may be broken; call an appliance repairperson.