Question about Maytag Performa PAV2200

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Dryer won't start

Symptoms: 4.5 yr old dryer will not start. Worked perfectly in present location/setup for 1 yr, as recently as yesterday evening. I've checked to be sure that the wiring is connected properly, plugged in properly and that the breaker is not tripped. Door is securly closed; lent filter and exhaust free of debris. Pushing "start" knob fails to start machine. My dryer want start put in a new thermal fuse and a door switch my light bulb still doesn't go on when door opens could it be burned out and causing the dryer not to start? Or could it be the timer?

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  • Anonymous Jan 10, 2009

    I have a Whirlpool dryer that was running. Opened the door to remove part of the load, closed door...start knob failed to restart the machine.

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1 Answer

Your light should be working regardless of badtimer even, id check the incoming power supply, adn the connection behind the unit itself

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Indesit wd12 (old) timer just goes round without stopping. door light flashes 9 times, help!


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Check and make sure the belt is still arond the drum if not thats your problem.

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LG WM 3431 does not dry


Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD / WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However, WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual downloaded from http://136.166.4.200/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my repairs.

Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for your screw-ups.

Trouble date: January 2006

Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.

Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without “Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.

Trouble date: March 2008

Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.

Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.

Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.

Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at 2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while the kitchen timer was still running.

Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and 4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.

Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.

Lessons learnt:

Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.

Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the Duct Assembly (condensing).

Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.

Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side. Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and secure bellows.

Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush. Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end. Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.

Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and it appears to be so for many users as well.

User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning maintenance is required.

extracted from http://www99.epinions.com/content_427670867588?alert_type=0&submit=Submit
please visit and leave a positive comment if your trouble was solved. tq.

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the part that needs to be replaced is the user interface. this part is not cheep check you owners manual to see if you have any warranty left

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If the machine fills and agitates but does not drain, something is probably wrong with the drain hose or the pump. The fact that the washer fills and agitates tells you that the motor works and the belt is okay (though some units have a separate belt for the pump and direct-drive washing machines don't have belts). 1) Be sure the drain hose isn't kinked. 2) Check the tab on the lid that strikes the lid switch; if it is broken, the washer may stop during the drain cycle. Press and release the lid switch: if it doesn't click each time you do this, it's probably broken. If you're experienced at home repair, you can remove the switch, test it, and replace it if needed; otherwise, call an appliance repair service person. 3) The water pump may be broken or clogged with a small article of clothing or the controls may be broken; call an appliance repairperson. courtesy "nagev"

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