I believe I fixed the solder pads and the tracers that were damaged, I tested the set and still have the three blinks for the convergence board. I've read up a little on using my multimeter and was wondering if you could reccomend any resources that would give me enough detail so that I can begin to check the components that lead into the chip, I have the manual, schematics, a multimeter and most importantly time. Im currently not confident on how to test them safely with out creating a cascade of new problems. Also there are four 2.2Ohm (i think) resistors in circuit to the IC that have a slight browning around the center (not the indicators bands), other resistor with the same markings do not, I don't believe the brown to be excess flux, is this an indicator that the resistor is shot? Again any feed back is useful, I know this is a large task to take on for a novice so any basic info or refrence material would be appreciated. Thanks again, matt P.S. - this TV is quickly becoming my white whale.
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Re: I attempted a repair
Yes those resistors are open. If you remove 1 leg of each of those resistors out of circuit then test them you will find that they are open, replacing those with the same rated flameproof resistors should solve your problem. You can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I will send you some Ebooks that will give you some basic instruction on electronic repair. I have a wealth of information and I dont mind sending you whatever can help you learn electronics. Its a fascinating field.
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The most common problem with this set is the convergence chips fail.To repair this type problem you need test equipment and soldering/desoldering tools and supplies. Most repair shops can repair this problem for 150-295 us dollars. If you attempt to disassemble the tv by yourself you risk damage to a light sensor that will render the set inoperable.In other instances I have seen bad solder connections and transistor failure on the boards but all these are repairable problems. No circuit board replacement should be needed. Good luck Russmann.
I would prefer you stay with the original STK number but spending extra cash for unproven "better product" isn't safe in my book. Just change the 2.2ohm resistor you saw glow but carefully test all others. It's nice of them to put a kit together but not necessary. The last convergence job I did was more about getting the board out nicely than soldering the packs in. Worked great and saved loads of money. Hope yours goes as well. I didn't need any of the resistors I purchased.
seems that SD tech is not available at this moment unless he might have
answered this question. I would be glad to help you to fix this
the code 2-2 does indicates a short protect fault, which is usually
caused by a failure in the convergence section. This is a very common
repair in these sets. The typical repair involves replacing the
convergence ICs (integrated circuits), and testing/replacing two small
The replacement ICs for your set are part number: STKxxx-xxx and are available from www.encompassparts.com
for $19.95 each (needs two). You will also need at least one (likely
two) 5 Amp pico fuses. If you wish to repair this yourself, the ICs are
located on the large heat sink on the center (Power) PC board. The fuses
are also on this board, near the center, location numbers: F9A04 and
F9A05. You would need soldering equipment and very good soldering skills
to replace these parts.
If you were to call a local shop to repair this, the labor to replace
these is roughly $250-275 (in my area) if the TV were brought in to the
shop. Please add a trip charge if repaired in the home.
The fuses must be tested with a multimeter to see if they are bad. They
are only $2.50 each, so most people without a meter just change them
both. If the repair has any problems, like a solder bridge, you may need
a meter to check them after that. A good magnifying glass helps prevent
solder bridges (for me, anyway).
My 9 years old Mitsubishi WS-55857 had the same problem (distorted pictures) for couple of months and I was about to buy a new plasma TV. But, I found TvRepairKits.com and I decided to give a try before buying a new TV. I received a convergence repair kit in two days with web site info for detailed instructions with many picutres to explain the process. When I had questions and Ed was very prompt to answer my questions thru the e-mail. I never done solding before, but I am moderate handy person. I spent less than $100 and three hours and my TV picutre looks stunning. I went thru advanced convergence process after I repalced the convergence chips and replaced RCA video cable with better quality and my TV picture looks as good as brand new. Thansk ED for your help! From Portland Oregon
Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001
Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852
Symptoms January, 2009:
Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
Possible related note:Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
Fuses F850 and F852 found blown
PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
There are two main power supply capacitors in this set.They are C-809 and C-810.One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time.When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities.One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU!Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.
These sets have alot of problems with poor solder connections resolder all pins on flyback transfomer, check 3 capacitors on power/deflection board cp(150) 2200uf 16v (cp120) 220uf 35v (cp114)220uf 35v they are green with gold writing.Also it is better to fix it Now because the longer you keep trying to play set it can cause more damage to it.
Resoldering those parts is known as a temporary "fix". Those parts need to be replaced. I believe that they are D616 and D6301. Both are on the "G" board. I don't have a listing for your specific model, but most of thr 57s are similar.
First of all thank you for the compliment. 3 blinks on the led means shutdown due to the convergence circuits. Its an easy repair you need to replace both convergence amp ICs thier numbers are STK392-110 I will post a link where you can order replacements and they provide free installation instructions as well as free on line tech support while you do your repair by way of instant messaging. I am one of thier repair techs that does the online support. just go to this link i am posting and purchase two STK392-110 Convergence ICs they ship free anywhere in the world. If you need other items such as solder irons and what not just leave a request by clicking the contact link in the lower left collum as they sell all those items they just dont list them all, and they will respond fast telling you what they have. http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
You can repair any of the traces with small wires from the affected pin to the next componnent on that trace. To remove the board label all wires that you disconnect. There are "bridge" connectors that connect the signal bd and main bd. these lift up off the main board and will stay attached to the board youre working on. If you need further info please let me know. Also use solder wick to remove the solder and get a small tip solder iron 30watt from radio shack. The proper way to solder is (1) allow the iron to heat up. (2) touch the hot tip to the pin on one side and then briefly touch the solder to the other side of that pin so the solder flows around the pin. Use the solder sparingly so you dont bridge the pins with solder. (3) always check your work with a magnifying glass to insure the pins arent bridged.