Question about Norelco 7610X Electric Shaver

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Razor disassembly Need to replace batteries and can't figure out how to open razor to get to the batteries. Looks like the trimmer must be removed first.  How to remove the trimmer? Can you please help. Thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I need to know how to remove the battery from a norelco mod #

To get to the batteries, you will need to flip up the lotion packet cover on the back and remove the lotion packet if there is one. You will see four screws on the back. Remove these to take off the back of the shaver case. Once this back case is removed, you will be able to see the battery pack. The circuit board can be lifted up slightly for better access to the batteries.
To replace the batteries, you will need to do a little soldering. For easy replacement, it is sometimes suggested that you use a modified installation technique. This is to break the tabs off of the old batteries rather that removing them from the circuit board. This allows the old batteries to be removed but leaves the tabs attached to the circuit board. You can them solder the tabs from the new batteries to the old existing tabs.

Batteries for this shaver can be found at See link below.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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SOURCE: how to change battery in Norelco 5841XL razor

it's soldered in

Posted on Aug 23, 2008

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SOURCE: Wahl Razor will not realign after removing blades for cleaning!

This is always a problem with clippers, it's just a matter of holding the blades tightly in place and getting the screws in as tightly as possible without letting the blades go. This has always worked for me in the past.

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

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SOURCE: how to change battery in Norelco 5841XL razor

8/20/2009 I have successfully replaced batteries on Norelco 5841xl. Purchased 4AA NiMH rechargable batteries from CVS for $9.50. Only need 2. Removed 2 Philips/straight screws on back cover(1 screw hidden under sideburn trimmer extension button).
Specially, be sure to mark on the shaver which way the batteries are inserted, 'cause once removed there are no marks to tell which way to go. The 2 batteries are "SPOT WELDED" to the metal ribbon contact wires. I used a sharp jack-knife to carefully pry the top edge away from the battery, (Pressing down sharp edge, and prying the ribbon away from the battery) then with the knife reaching under the ribbon battery junction(knife sharp side up) and prying the ribbon away from the battery. I redid this process a few times, wearing away (fatiguing the metal) at the removal of the ribbon. the top of one sort-of broke off above the battery but no matter there was enough left below , that there was enough to solder a wire to if necessary. Anyway "success" 2 batteries removed, no threat to heat sensitive components below. Continuing, I used a sharp new nail-file to harshly scrape some scratches onto the top and bottom of the batteries, so the solder would have fresh rough (un-oxidized) metal to solder to. A 15 or 30 watt soldering iron might work but I used a 120 watt weller soldering gun to solder the ribbons to the batteries (as they were connected in series before). preheat the soldering tool to temp, Press soldering tool to the battery briefly and while there insert "rosin core solder" between junction between the battery and iron, after a small droplet forms, stop inserting and let the heat on the battery increase, seeing the solder wetting to the battery, only then remove heat quickly to prevent deeper heating of the battery. Having presoldered the 4 points on the batterys, insert batteries into holder, you can then solder batteries into place with iron pressing ribbon to battery, and a small touch of solder to the iron-ribbon-battery junction, to help "wetting" the surfaces (thereby helping the iron heat to transfer into the joint) and remove heat and let joint cool without movement, 'til frozen again. (Don't want "Cold-Soldering" joint to occur by movement while freezing) . One special note worth checking and evaluating: there are 2 capacitor cans at the bottom end of the battery holder, almost touching the bottom of the batteries..... BE VERY CAREFUL that the caps don't touch the horizontal wire connecting the 2 batteries together, or the batteries themselves. I have no knowledge of the concequences but don't wanna find out either. My shaver was 8 maybe 10 years old, and went from holding a charge for a week new, to not holding a useable charge for a complete shave. So I charged the newones once fully, it's been 2 weeks and I'm only down 20% to 80% charged, and it seems now on batteries to run just a little bit faster than new. (Like when the cord is in the wall). Avery awesome experience for me cause I thought the $90.00 shaver was a loss.
Just a thought in hindsight, Keep an eye for heat while charging, because I've not plugged it in and left it a long time unattended. The previous batteries were NiCad and these were NiMH and I'm not sure what the charging differences are, but I'm REAL HAPPY, and my keeping an eye for a while until I'm comfortable with it's safety, is a small price to pay for saving $90.00 for $10 batteries.
Only problem might be fire or explosion... Be careful in anything you do, ever... But there you go !!!!! Real Happy Camper...

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

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SOURCE: I dropped the razor and the removable head section

The head assembly (the part that flips up) for your model 7775X shaver si comprised of three components; the heads, the head holder and the retainer. These are always sold seperately and you can find them available at See links below.

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

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The razor head comes loose from the two arms.

The one piece motor drive which also contains the shaver head in the Braun wear out. They can be replaced by yourself or a shaver tech. A good place for parts,

To disassemble the 7000 Series Braun shaver.

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To disassemble the 8000 Braun Series shaver.

Remove the plastic cover on the bottom that covers the corded socket. Be careful, there are a total of two tabs on the short sides and four very small tabs on the long sides. I usedmy fingernail to create a space big enough to insert the corner of a credit card in the center of the long side opposite the blue light indicator, then gently removed the cover. Using a screwdriver could damage the plastic.

The two sides then pop off, they only fit on their respective side when replacing. Don't lose the two small black seals on the top of each side piece.

There are a total of four screws holding the body together. Remove the screws, using the proper flat blade or torx screwdriver. The shaver will then split into. You can then remove the the Motor Drive Unit and the separate circuit board with the batteries.

This would also be a good time to clean the goo buildup from around the shaver head.

Assembly is the reverse of above. The Motor Unit will only fit in one way, there is a flat side and a angular side. Be sure the pin for the trimmer is placed in its proper hole, or it won't extend.

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