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Squeek in the machine model number xqg50-11 i removed back cover belt is ok i found a 2 inch long hose

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Hello;
check the belt tension as it could be loose a bit also check its edges for any signs of wear n tear ,, spray some silicone lubricant on it and see if that helps.
cheers.
bob_snz

Posted on Apr 19, 2008

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Maytag maxima washer won't drain


get to the back of the unit and take out the 2 screws on the back of the lid . remove the lid. look at the front electrical panel -remove the screws holding it in place. look inside the unit on the right and left side -- there may be 2 screws holding the front on - about 7 inches down. there may be two screws also at the bottom of the front panel. If the washer won't drain, should check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't drain properly, if at all. If the washer won't drain water check the drain hose. Be sure the hose did not get kinked behind the washer. Also, remove the hose from the pump and check it for obstructions. If the washer won't drain there might be a clogged pump or hose. It's common for small socks or other small clothing items to get into the water drain system and clog the hose leading to the pump or the pump itself. Remove the hoses from the pump in order to remove the article of clothing. Keep in mind that any water in the washer will pour out of the hoses when removed.

Jan 08, 2014 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

Amana lea30aw squeeks


there are drum rollers that support the drum and turn during rotation,FIRST UNPLUG the unit from POWER,then,remove the 2 bottom screws at the front cover and remove lower cover below the door, then remove 4 screws on front door cover 2 on each side and remove upper front and door,then remove 2 screws just under the top cover in front then release and remove drum belt from idler pulley by reaching under drum on right side by motor,then remove drum and 2 pulleys will be on rear of inside machine the other 2 will be on door panel,sometimes you can remove "c" CLIPS AND CLEAN HAIR AND LINT OUT AND lube with dry lubricant,but they are relatively inexpensive so replace all 4 rollers,check axles they turn on too and belt condition too amnd throughly clean out lint from innards too

Mar 11, 2012 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

How do I change the timing belt on my 1991 chevy lumina 3.1?


Things You'll Need:
  • 2 camshaft timing clamps (#J38613-A)
  • Set of metric ½-inch drive sockets
  • Set of metric 3/8-inch drive sockets
  • Set of metric ¼-inch drive sockets
  • ½-inch drive ratchet
  • ½-inch drive air gun
  • ½-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive air gun
  • 3/8-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
  • ¼-inch drive ratchet
  • ¼-inch drive air gun
  • ¼-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
  • Pry bar
  • Common screwdriver
  • Small common screwdriver
  • Small piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Torque wrench
    Removing the Timing Belt
  1. Remove the air cleaner, air duct and the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir can remain attached to the hoses---just unbolt it and move it to the side out of your way. Remove the serpentine belt. Before removing the serpentine belt, make sure there is a diagram on the hood or radiator support to show you the belt routing. If the belt routing sticker is missing, sketch out a picture of the belt routing.
  2. Siphon the fluid out of the reservoir of the power steering pump, or be prepared to cap the line ports off. You can cap the line ports off with a piece of rubber hose. Close the open end of the hose with a large bolt. Unbolt the power steering pump from its bracket and set it aside. Cap any open hose ends or pipe fittings. This will prevent additional fluid loss.
  3. Remove the right timing belt cover, spark plug wire cover, left timing belt cover and the ECM harness cover using the ¼-inch tools. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner with the 3/8-inch tools. Unclip the power steering hose from the alternator. Using the ¼-inch tools or the 3/8-inch tools, remove the center timing belt cover and the right and left camshaft covers.
  4. Remove the tensioner side plate. The side plate is located just under the left cams and has three bolts holding it on. The tensioner is hydraulic and includes a plunger unit. Turn the plunger unit to remove it from the pulley arm and socket. Make sure you do not lose the tapered brush that sits between the plunger and the mount. Loosen and remove the tensioner pulley bolt (located at about 10 o'clock on the tensioner pulley). Tape the pulley pivot bushing to the pulley so it doesn't fall out. Remove the pulley and the arm. Remove the timing belt.
  5. Installing the Timing Belt
  6. Bend a thick paper clip so you have a straight piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long. Clamp the tensioner plunger at its center in a vise, with the plunger pointing toward the ground. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes to get the oil into the rubber boot. Remove the plug from the flat base of the plunger and insert a small screwdriver into the vent hole. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the pushrod is retracted. Make sure the pushrod is fully retracted before moving on to the next step.
  7. Push the wire peg you created in Step 1 into the vent hole and turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until you feel the wire peg lock into the pushrod. Fill the plunger with 5W-30 synthetic engine oil to the bottom of the hole. Do not overfill the plunger. Put the plug back on the plunger. Make sure the plug is in securely and the plunger is completely sealed. Wipe the plunger clean of spilled oil.
  8. Clean the tensioner pulley, but do not lubricate it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the number 1 cylinder (front cylinder on the driver's side) is at top dead center and the timing marks on the crank pulley and the block are lined up. Top dead center is achieved when the piston in the number 1 hole reaches its complete height in the rotation. You can feel for this by sticking a screwdriver in number 1 spark plug hole while turning the crank pulley.
  9. Turn all four of the camshaft pulleys so that the machined flats are facing up. Install the timing clamps on each camshaft carrier. Torque the bolt on the timing clamp to 22 foot pounds of torque. If there are any timing marks drawn on the camshaft pulleys, erase them.

  10. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts. Using a rubber hammer, tap each camshaft sprocket to remove any taper. Tighten the sprocket bolts finger-tight. Spin each sprocket to be sure the sprocket turns freely. Make sure there is no back and forth freeplay when the sprockets are being turned.
  11. Install the timing belt starting with the crankshaft pulley. Route the belt to the right guide pulley (as you are facing the engine), then the right exhaust camshaft sprocket, over the top of the right intake camshaft sprocket, then under the center guide pulley, over the left intake camshaft sprocket and over the left exhaust camshaft sprocket. Make sure the timing belt is tight on the right side and loose on the left side (again, as you are facing the engine).
  12. Install the tensioner pulley, making sure the pivot brush does not fall out. Leave it taped or use a magnet to hold it in. Torque the tensioner pulley bolt to 37 foot pounds of torque. Install the tensioner and the side plate. Be sure the pushrod end is seated properly against the tensioner pulley. Torque the side plate retaining bolts to 18 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin and let the plunger extend to its normal position.
  13. Set the torque wrench to 89 foot pounds of torque, then put the torque wrench on the square lug of the tensioner and torque it. This applies initial tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft sprocket three times by hand. This ensures seating of the timing belt and makes sure the engine turns freely without the valves hitting the pistons. Check to be sure the crankshaft pulley timing marks are still lined up.
  14. Torque the bolts on the left camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys to 96 foot pounds of torque. You will need to hold the sprockets to keep them from turning while torquing the bolts. Remove the timing clamp from the left side camshaft carrier. The cams should not move when removing the timing clamp. Turn the crankshaft one complete clockwise rotation and align the crankshaft pulley marks.
  15. Repeat Step 9 for the right camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys, expect when turning the engine, turn it two complete clockwise rotations and align the crankshaft pulley marks. The flat, machined surfaces on the camshafts will be facing up on one side and facing down on the other side.
  16. Mark the left camshaft exhaust pulley at 2 o'clock and the left camshaft intake pulley at 8 o'clock (the marks should be in line with each other) with fingernail polish or heat paint. Mark the right camshaft exhaust pulley at 10 o'clock and the right camshaft intake pulley at 4 o'clock, lining up the marks. Install all components in the reverse order of removal.

Feb 15, 2011 | 1991 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

I have a LG washing machine Model # WM2688H*M it has a slight leak that I traced to a small black hose. The hose is in the back of the machine that goes from the bottom of the drum to the top somewhere...


It's not likely the hose is leaking, but rather water is leaking from somewhere else and is running down the outside of that hose. Remove the washer top by taking out the two phillips head screws from the bottom of the plastic clips on the back side of the washer's top. Now, stand in front of the machine and use the palms of you hands to sharply push the top cover back about 2 inches, then lift the cover off. Look for the water leak. The most likely suspect is a water inlet valve.

Jan 01, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Need location of thermostate


Removal & Installation 3.9L, 5.2L & 5.9L Engines To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Coolant until level is below thermostat dod_trk_altbracket.gif

    • Support bracket located near rear of alternator (A/C Vehicles) dod_trk_releasebelttension.gif

    • Alternator drive belt by attaching a wrench to the pulley mounting bolt of the automatic tensioner, rotating the tensioner clockwise to release belt tension, and removing the belt:
    • Alternator mounting bolts, but do not remove any wiring at alternator
    • 4WD indicator lamp wiring harness (4WD vehicles)
    • Alternator and position aside WARNING
      When servicing constant tension hose clamps, use only tools designed for servicing this type of clamp, such as special clamp tool (number 6094). Always wear safety glasses when servicing constant tension clamps. Always replace constant tension clamps with the same numbered clamp.
    • Radiator hose clamp and upper radiator hose at thermostat housing and position wiring harness aside to gain access to thermostat dod_trk_59l_thermostat.gif

    • Thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat
To Install:
  1. Clean intake manifold and thermostat housing mating surfaces.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • Thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on intake manifold
    • Gasket on intake manifold and over thermostat dod_trk_thermohousingposition.gif

    • Thermostat housing to intake manifold NOTE: The word FRONT is stamped on housing and must be placed towards front of vehicle.
    • Housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
      1. Torque to: 200 inch lbs. (23 Nm)
    • Upper radiator hose to thermostat housing dod_trk_drivebeltrouting.gif

    • Alternator (A/C Vehicles)
      1. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Support bracket
      1. Torque to: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
    • Drive belt over all pulleys except idler pulley
    • Socket/wrench to pulley mounting bolt of automatic tensioner and rotate clockwise
    • Belt over idler pulley, let tensioner rotate back into place and remove wrench
    • Coolant
    • Negative battery cable
  3. Start and warm the engine and check for leaks.
4.7L Engine To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Coolant
  3. Safely raise and support the vehicle.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Splash shield
    • Lower radiator hose clamp and lower radiator hose at thermostat housing 4.7L engine shown 3.7L similar chry_47_thermostst.gif

    • Thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing and thermostat
To Install:
  1. Clean timing chain cover and thermostat housing mating surfaces.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • Thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on timing chain cover
    • Thermostat housing on timing chain cover
    • Housing-to-timing chain cover bolts.
      1. Torque to: 112 inch lbs. (13 Nm)
    • Lower radiator hose on thermostat housing
    • Splash shield
  3. Lower vehicle.
  4. Fill cooling system.
  5. Connect negative battery cable to battery.
  6. Start the engine and check for leaks.
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Aug 26, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

My roper dryer is squeaking. how do i stop this


you would have to see if the motor or something else is squeeking. remove front panel, take belt off motor, use a no heat cycle, and turn on machine. any squeeking? yes? then you need a motor...no? then you need a repair/maintnance kit for you dryer. it comes with new rollers, belt and tension pulley and this should get rid of all potentall squeeky parts. if you give me a model number then maybe i can get you the part number you need.

Mar 21, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I'm looking for a diagram of my hotpoint washing machine in order to make sure I'm in the right place to replace the belt. The only numbers I found on it was on the back. WLW3400 it is at least 14 years...


Washing machine drive belt, length 29 1/2”, width 1/2”, characteristics, medium “v”- shaped you can order a manual from Repairclinic.com

Jan 16, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag washer wont drain hose ok model La105


Good day,
Remove front panel, 2 screws on bottom, lift bottom away and pull out.
Check to see if pump belt is broken, or extremely loose.
If loose, see if motor glide springs are free and pulling back on motor.

Reach under, and turn pulley of pump to see if it is free.
If it will not move. Stop.
Pull off pump to tube hose. Remove other hose on pump and remove.
Remove pump.
This machine is a known sock eater. Check hoses and pump, and if found clear.
Feel up in tube nipple for same.
If nothing, replace pump, or belts as needed.
Note: belts should be replaced as a a pair. Reinstall the pump, and adjust as necessary.

Thank you for using Fixya

Dec 22, 2009 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

LDE412 MODEL MAYTAG DRYER, LOUD SQUEEK


Are you sure that is the model number? I can`t find that model number anywhere. Please check the tag on the machine. This tag should also have the serial number on it.

Nov 10, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

Washing machine belt replacement


I found the exploded parts views for that model number branded as a Maytag. Look to see if the are the same on the link below:
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=LWA60AW&mfgModelNum=PLWA60AW&fkMfgID=1
Use the parts diagrams as a reference.
Remove drain hoses, motor
Move motor inward while removing belt from pulley under tub
Three screws with star heads hold pump to motor and careful when removing pump--it could crack if it is frozen to motor shaft.

Jan 04, 2008 | Washing Machines

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