Water leaks from the handle when the handle is fully extended to the opep position. How do I stop it.????

Obviously, it is either not fully inserted or the seals are leaking.

These shampooing devices are very picky about how you insert each part. They are not as temperamental as their older models, which I tossed in the garbage after getting a heated model, but they can still be difficult to handle.

Now, on difference is when the handle is upright all suction goes to the attachment hose. The further you lean the handle down the more suction goes to the lower compartment but you said it is leaking from the bottom. I suspect your supply chamber is the leaking area. You are just noticing is more because the lower section has less suction you suck up any leak before you see it.

I'm slightly in the dark on this because I have no idea which model moen shower valve do you have? Here's a shot in the dark....single lever anti-scald tub and shower valves, moen brand in fact, prevent scalding by a means of a cog or two, (a cog is a flat metal piece, with an arm sticking out on a 90 degree angle, and has a star shaped cut out in it's center. That star shaped cut out fits perfectly over and on to the center stem of the valve. These cogs are located under the handle. These two cogs are what limit the handle from opening completely counter clockwise. When the handle is at it's most open counter clockwise position....the port that allows hot water to enter the valve and come out of the shower head is at it most open position. Those two cogs are what prevents the hot port from being fully open by means of the 90 degree arms sticking out and under the handle. The handle has two flat surfaced walls that catch on those arms sticking out from those cogs under the handle. You have to position the cogs on the spindle, (valve stem), in a position that will stop the handle short of full counter clockwise to prevent the shower valve from opening enough to allow enough hot water to pass through the port to possibly scald a person while showering. It's a real tricky process setting those cogs to a position so that when your valve stops it's counter clockwise rotation, (which is how the valve it turned on), it stops in a position that only allows enough hot water to flow that mixes to be a nice warm shower water temperature. You see, with the hot water flow limited, there is little chance you will ever be burned by your shower water (thus...anti scald mode is in operation).....
Now here's the kicker.....When soldering the connections on your shower valve, (during the installation process), the installer must remove the cartridge from the valve body to prevent melting it with his torch while soldering the joints. When that cartridge is removed, those two cogs hang loose and slide off the spline. And when they are removed, it is quite a chore to place them back into the position they are intended to be placed in. and..WHEN THE COGS ARE RE-PLACED IN A CERTAIN (WRONG)POSITION, IT FORCES THE HANDLE IN A POSITION THAT IS WRONG, AND WON'T ALLOW THE HANDLE TO REST IN THE OFF POSITION. The cog arms are preventing the handle from rotating to a completely closed position. Which causes exactly what I think you are experiencing. When the main water valve is turned back on....you can't stop the water from flowing through your newly installed shower valve. Those cogs...in the wrong position on the spline....will not allow the handle to spin to the correct point of the off position.
You have to remove your handle, slide the two cogs off of the spline, then re-place the handle on the spline and turn it until the water stops flowing out of the shower head....now pull the handle back off....look at the underside of the handle....you will see a couple of walls within the open underside. those walls are what the arms on the cogs hit to stop the rotation of the handle....Now hold your handle in front of yourself and face the shower valve....now position the lever on the handle straight down....now lean the handle back to view the positions of those two walls on the underside of the handle.....now imagine those two arms on the cogs sticking out in the area between those to walls ....with one arm positioned to stop the handle in the position with the lever straight down....then imagine the other arm sticking out in a position somewhere around 11 o'clock, (if you look at it like a clock), .....so now the first arm is around 6 o'clock and the other at 11.....now slide the handle onto the spline, with the lever down .....then test the valve by turning counter clockwise to turn it on. ....turn it until it is stopped by the cog arm....now feel your water temperature....if it's good...then turn the handle clockwise to the off position....is it all the way off? if not, pull the handle off...adjust the 6 o'clock cog arm back toward the 7 o'clock position, just one spline ....replace the handle and try again.....that should fix the off position....if you need the water a little warmer, move the 11 o'clock cog arm toward the 10 o'clock position a position or two....to get a cooler mix on your water....move the 11 o'clock arm the opposite direction.... WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED RE-CALIBRATING THE VALVE....SECURE THE HANDLE AND COVER BUTTON BACK IN PLACE AND CALL IT GOOD...IF YOU DIDN'T DROP THE HANDLE SCREW OR ONE OF THE COGS DOWN THE DRAIN......OOPS...SHOULD HAVE MENTIONED TO PLACE A TOWEL OVER THE DRAIN WHEN YOU DIS-ASSEMBLE YOUR SHOWER VALVE...I hope your not corn fused by my lengthy instructions....and I hope you understood the terms "cog"(the two removable metallic pieces that slide on and off the center spline), -"spline"(the metallic stem sticking out of the center of the valve, it has gears all around it) -"handle lever"(the portion of the handle that protrudes outward, away from the center) -"walls on the underside of the handle"(the two flat pieces molded into the underside of the handle that act as stops by not being able to spin past the protruding arms of the cogs)...Good luck my friend and remember to always work safely....

FLIK and FLIK FISH JAM, JAMMED, AND JAMMING.
When you do not retract the pliers correctly, the tool jams. It took me forever to figure out what was happening.
After the pliers have been fully extended, opened, and their handles fully opened (which locks the pliers into utilization mode), and then you want to retract them and fold up the Flik, you have to first FULLY depress the silver tabs located in the middle of the black sliders on the outside edge of each handle. When you fully depress these tabs, the pliers will unlock and snap out of utilization mode. You will feel the two handles collapse or move slightly closer to each other. THEN AND ONLY THEN, keeping the tabs fully depressed, you will be able to slide the sliders down toward the base of each handle, retracting the pliers.
If you slide the sliders upward and move the pliers into fully extended position, they will lock in that place. This is lock position 1. And if you then partially depress the tabs, the sliders will easily move back down the handles and the pliers will easily retract. But this is NOT THE CASE once you fully extend the pliers and THEN open the handles fully! When you do this, you will hear the pliers lock again into utilization mode. This is lock position 2. Once in lock position 2, as described above, you must FULLY depress the silver tabs (when you do so the handles will close, fully parallel to each other) and then you can slide the sliders back down. From lock position 2, if you only partially depress the tabs, the pliers will deceitfully start to retract but will begin to jam as you try to slide the sliders to the bottom of the handles. The harder you pull on the sliders, or push downward on the plier tips, the tighter the tool will peanut butter and JAM!
HOW TO UNJAM A JAMMED FLIK MULTITOOL.
First, understand that the tool gets increasingly jammed when you are retracting the pliers into the handles. Thus, do not try to retract them (push them inside) further. You will need to force the pliers outward, back to their fully extended position. (Lock position 1). The best way I have found to do this is to position two 2X4 sections of wood parallel to each other on the ground, with their 2" side facing the ground. These two sections of 2X4s can be quite short (5" is enough) or long. (Place them so that there is a 1/4" gap between them.). Notice the large rivet at the base of the pliers. It serves as the main hinge for the tool. Position the tool vertically with the plier tips downward between the two pieces of wood so that the large rivet on one side makes contact with one 2X4, and the rivet on the other side makes contact with the other 2X4. Put the thumb of one hand on the top of the black slider, and put the thumb of your other hand on the top of the other slider. You will NOT need to depress the silver tabs, as the pliers are not locked, but only jammed. Now, push downward on the black sliders with your thumbs, equally on both sides, increasing pressure until the pliers unjam and snap downward to the fully extended position. If you cannot push hard enough with your thumbs to unjam the pliers, then you will need to find two items which have a clean 90 degree edge on them and which you can hold in your hand securely and which you can use to push downward on the tops of the two black sliders. You might be able to do this with two large regular screw drivers. In such case, you might need to find another person who can hold the tool vertically with the plier tips in between the 2X4s, while you push straight down on the black sliders. THAT should do it. Refer to the instructions above so as not to jam the FLIK again. Let me know if you find a better way to unjam them, or if you can improve my instructions. Blessings.

No, air can't get trapped in there. I don't think you did anything wrong. It sounds like the valve or internal parts are worn more than new washers take up for. Tightening down the valve just reduced travel for valve to open fully. Can't think of a fix; where's that joe da plumber?

How to Troubleshoot a Flushometer

A flushometer consists of a metal pipe extending from the back of a toilet with a slender handle on the side that is used to flush a toilet. This type of flush valve is commonly used for toilets in commercial facilities to provide a durable and accurate flush delivery system. If the flushometer does not work properly, troubleshoot it and perform minor repairs. Common issues are often resolved quickly. If troubleshooting does not correct the problem, call a plumber for repairs.

Does Not Flush

1 Inspect the handle assembly. A broken handle or assembly will prevent flushing. If damaged, unscrew and remove the handle assembly. Replace the handle or repair it with a handle repair kit

2 Open the main water supply valve to turn the water on fully. The water supply is normally turned on, but check to make sure it is turned on fully and has not been turned off inadvertently

3 Remove the flushometer's CP cover, the round cap on the very top of the pipe extending from the toilet. Then remove the inside cover directly underneath the cap. Inspect the relief valve. Replace it if it is visibly damaged.

Short Flush

1 Remove the CP cover and inside cover. The CP cover is located on the very top of the pipe extending from the back of the toilet. The inside cover is underneath the CP cover and the diaphragm assembly is located beneath the inside cover. Remove and inspect the diaphragm assembly. A damaged diaphragm assembly can cause a short and incomplete flush. Replace it if it is visibly damaged.

2 Replace or repair the handle assembly. A damaged handle can result in a short flush. If damaged, unscrew and remove the handle assembly. Replace the handle or repair it using a handle repair kit.

3 Remove the CP cover and inside cover to remove the diaphragm assembly. If a low consumption diaphragm is installed on a water-saver fixture or a urinal diaphragm is installed on a toilet fixture, replace it with an appropriate diaphragm.

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you need to adjust the little gear like..plastic part under handle..plus hot water must be on so that the pressure is balance..the cartridge also needs to be adjusted so water is off on off position

On this valve the hot/cold in reverse is easy enough to fix, but the faucet dripping at the handle is another issue. To reverse the hot and cold, turn off the house water, relieve the pressure by opening a nearby faucet. Once the water stops, remove the handle and faucet cover so you can see the valve. then the four screws that are visible need to be removed. Mark one of the screw holes with a crayon or pencil and then remove by pulling straight out. Once out, inspect the main o-ring right behind where it sits against the valve, (if this is damaged, it might be why the handle area is leaking) then turn the whole assembly clockwise 180 degrees then insert straight back in and insert screws. Tighten screws until snug. Turn water back on before installing cover and handle to check for leaks. If no leaks are found, install cover and handle and check for proper position of hot and cold. If there are leaks, tighten screws in clockwise rotation tightening each screw a quarter turn, then moving to the next one until dripping stops. If dripping is from center of stem, where the handle attaches, you will need to contact Price Pfister to request a replacement. They are very good to work with. Good luck.

On a single lever shower handle, when the handle is pointing straight down the water is off. The handle will then rotate 270 degrees to the right through cold - warm - hot. What has happened is when you took the other handle off the new handle didn't go into the same position as the old one. So now when the handle stops at the down position the valve is still open probable running cold water. The fix is to take the handle back off. Rotate the valve into the off position so that water stops flowing and reinstall the handle pointing down. Now when you rotate the handle to the right you will get cold then warm then hot at 270 degrees and back to off when the handle is pointing back straight down. If you are still having problems please let me know and we will examine it a little closer.

there should be, probably a diverter problem inside the spout assembly. It is stuck between settings letting water travel through the hose and out the sprayer. It is not returning fully to resting position.

Try this from another post. It should help.

The steam wand began to seriously leak but a call to Starbucks Customer Service line and I was talked through how to adjust it so that the leaking stopped. It requires taking off the top/back panel of the machine (6 philips screws) then using a small allen key (1.5 mm I believe) to loosen and adjust a plastic oblong donut-shaped thing (a "cam" actually) on the shaft of the steam knob... no more drips.
The key to prevent dripping is to open the steam knob without putting pressure on it when it gets to the full-open stop position. Cranking it too hard when it comes to a stop in the full-open position will slowly move the cam out of position. Then the shaft doesn't fully seat inside the machine anymore and won't fully shut off the water to the steam wand. Then, no matter how hard you crank the knob in the shut-off position it will still drip. The purpose of the cam is to stop the knob from complete unscrewing and it also turns the pump on and off for the steam wand. The cam adjustment is very small but completely solves the dripping problem. Seeing inside the machine made me realize how easy it would be to repair problems as long as I can get the parts from Starbucks or perhaps Saeco.