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Posted on Jun 09, 2010

Hobart A 200 Mixer

Wont start with out help although runs good after start up

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  • Posted on Jun 10, 2010
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There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

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  • Posted on Aug 31, 2010
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I have a AS-200-T Hobart mixer. I need a wiring diagram, when it is plugged in and turn on the power nothing happens.

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  • Posted on Feb 15, 2014
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I use this site for Hobart A200 Parts, they have pretty much everything - Hobart Mixer Parts Hobart Mixer A200

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HOW OLD IS MY MIXER

The Hobart A-200 is an 80's product. These first came on the market around 1985. There is no way to date the one you have without examining it.

The best estimate is 25-30 years old.
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Hobart A-200 mixer gets hot and weak. Motor housing gets too hot to keep your hand on it. Service tech told me the motors usually don't go out. What other problem could it be?

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Try running the mixer unloaded (i.e. nothing in the bowl) for ten minutes or more and see if it gets hot. If it still gets hot, the motor's start circuit (varies depending upon age of the A-200; Hobart used numerous motors in the A-200 over the years, incorporating different starting circuits) most likely has problems. If it doesn't get hot when operating unloaded, then you're probably overheating the mixer by overloading it.
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Hobart A-200 mixer (OLD!) runs hot & shuts down.

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Help? I need the Shop Manual for a Hobart A200 mixer. Thanks.

Ricardok45,I'm a hobart tech and can tell you nobody has ever bought hobart,they are a subsidary of illinois tool works.It's true hobart doesnt release any of their service manuals to the general public,however if you need guidence or parts i can help you.
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No, do not swap hot and N.

First, verify rotation. As the attachment shaft rotates, it should push the engagement pin into the keeper slot. Looking down on top of the mixer, the planetary should rotate clockwise.

If the unit runs backwards, does it start slow? Can you get it to run either way by giving it a push start before turning on the power? If so, your start switch is not working properly. (Which is my guess) Check your capacitor.

There is mechanical and electronic start switches. (Metal arms and a contact or a little gold rectangular metal can.)

Check it out and let me know what you find -- Mike
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Hi. Your mixer was manufactured in 1967. If you plan on keeping it, take the outer cover off, gently remove the two metal dust caps with a small screwdriver and look into each opening with a good flashlight to determine the quality and amount of grease in the trans. case.

Ideally the grease should almost fill the space with no oil visible. If you need to look further, I suggest that you open up the transmission cover, to determine the condition of the grease that lubricates the transmission. If you find that oil is seperating from the grease. you would do well to remove all of the oil and old grease and replace it with either Shell Darina EP-2, or Chevron FM ALC EP-2 grease. It's a messy job, but it will add years of life to your mixer.

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Good luck! If you found this solution helpful, please rate it. ricardok45
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