This is a 120 volt gas oven (Jenn-Air JGW8130DDB). The drop-down did not let me select the exact model of my oven so I chose the closest model. I'll open it up and make sure the connections are secure. Thanks
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the reason its not heating is because you will always have 120 volts on this red wire due to its being connected directly to one side of the in coming power source,its either that you lost the other 120 volts of power coming into the unit,a tripped breaker/fuse/etc. or the control board relay that supplies the other 120 volts to the element for a combined 240 volts needed to heat the element,if you have 240 volts to the connection to the unit then you either a bad control board or the Neutral incoming power wire could be burned off which you need to get 120 volts to operate the control board which operate the relay to supply the element with the required 240 volts to operate
What you need to check is for power at the clock.TURN OFF BREAKER gain access to clock and use volt meter. One the clock will be wires maked L1 & N on those 2 wires when breaker is turned back on their should be 120 vac. IF 120 vac at those 2 wires,replace the clock, if not 120 vac into clock check for burnt/broken wires
One side of your 240 volt connection is disconnected, most likely in the plug wire connection. The neutral and one leg of your 240 is working thereby your display still works since it runs of 120 volts. Happened to me I had one wire come loose from stress on the plug
A lot of ovens use a gas-filled vacuum flourescent display module that takes a higher voltage to drive it. The modules can get damaged or the power supply for the higher voltage (usually around 50 volts) may have failed.
Chances are the thing is only sold as an assembly...While the displays are common in auto speedometers that have digital display, those for these ovens are special with wpecial characters and background.
You will need a conversion kit. The kit should be about twenty dollare, and it will explain exactly what to do. if you have any questions get back. You need a Jenn Air kit so go to any Jenn air dealer to get it.
I have the exact same problem with an F5 fault code. I also have a new clock assembly. RepairClinic.com said "Jenn Air fault code F5 = Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree / Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Jenn Air Fault code for newer models F5 = Power to element relays disabled in cook mode 1. Intermittent oven temperature sensor or wire harness or, 2. Intermittent contact on power relay board" This doesn't help since it is too technical. What should I do next?
THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THE BAD DISPLAY IS TO REPLACE THE CLOCK. I HAVE A JENN AIR OVEN TODAY AS A WORK ORDER TO REPLACE THE CLOCK FOR A FAILED DISPLAY.
FOR THE JGW8130DDB WITH NO POWER ANYWHERE, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A SUPPLY PROBLEM. MAKE SURE THE WIRING IS HOOKED UP WITH THE RED AND WHITE WIRES RECEIVING 240 VOLTS AND THE WHITE WIRE ATTACHED TO NEUTRAL / GROUND.IF THE OVEN HAS A BARE COPPER WIRE AND THE HOUSEHOLD WIRING ONLY HAS THREE WIRES, COMBINE THE WHITE WIRE AND THE COPPER WIRE TOGETHER AND ATTACH TO THE HOUSEHOLD NEUTRAL / GROUND .
UNLESS YOU ARE SURE ABOUT THE HOOKUP IN THE BREAKER/FUSE BOX, DO NOT GO SIMPLY BY THE COLOR OF THE WIRES.