Hdmi not working on jvc model hd52g887
You didnt mention whether it was working and just stopped or never worked which would mean that you may simply have to go into the settings on the tv and change it., the connector could be bad if is a new problem or circuitry capacitors or components inside are bad, close inspection can usually determine your problem but to check circuits one must remove the back cover and have the time, patience and space to do such. If you can see burnt components then you must suspect other components in the general area as well or at least one other bigger component in the general area of the burnt component or swelled capacitors.
You may need the remote to access all of the features in the settings but sometimes can be done with a series of selecting appropriate buttons on the tv set itself and typically near the power button and may involve the use of the volume buttons, a menu button etc.
Chances are it is a couple fried components and is a fair sized job to fix for the general person but not impossible but your tv may sit around in parts til you can inspect individual circuit boards, check all fuses first inside but typically a fuse gone is a more serious problem and you may cause more damage by replacing the fuse.
I would inspect each circuit board carefully for burnt micro components or dark areas especially the board that has the HDMI input and the power board that leads to that. Some parts may come loose from the board from heating and cooling and lead-free solder in newer circuitry is garbage and cracks happen after a while especially if any type of vibrations on bigger, heavy components boards - close inspection of the underside of the boards in heavy component and high- heat areas you will notice fine cracks around the pins and this simply could have led to the failure and the further failure then of components due to minute arcing in these parts so replacing a capacitor or two or a Transistor (bigger power transistors are attached to the silver or black aluminum heat-sinks) is simply not enough - inspect the board completely for these minute cracks and resolder hot areas. You may test transistors with a cheap digital meter although is more difficult while still on the board but this can indicate a shorted or burnt transistor - this can be determined by testing same type transistors and writing down the ohm readings but must be done with different polarities to see if the reading can be taken one way but not the other. A transistor should show this to be true between two of the 3 posts (the back of the transistor or the top part can be a terminal as well and be careful of transistors when a circuit is turned on as you may get a good shock.) Generally a burnt transistor will show a hole blown in the front or top but may be as small as a needle hole and you can pick at it with a needle easily and is soft or cracked and stinks of that burnt electronic smell.
So a transistor is typically like a diode between two of the poles so you should get an ohm reading one way but not the other - refer to readings of same type transistors onboard for comparison keeping in mind that other component while onboard may give you inaccurate readings, just keep notes.
Part numbers and components are usually named right next to the component such as R1 or R2 - resistor 1 or Resistor 2, L1 is a coil, C25 is capacitor number 25, d3 is diode number 3, IC5 is integrated Circuit 5 and ICs have more than 3 pins.
Bad capacitors will typically show signs of swelling or exploding at the top or bottom and may have leaked a clear, white, or yellow fluid and then perhaps dried up. Dont confuse wax or white silicone to hold parts in a certain place as the positioning of some components is critical to its operation without interference with other components, or the resistance in putting on a longer wire may cause some interference with the operation of that and other related parts.
To sum up, check the hdmi port for movement or contact pins worn, dirty, or damaged, use a flashlight to look into it and see if it wiggles, if its attached to the board that may be the weak point and a simple re-solder job is all that is necessary.
Testing and examination requires individual boards to be removed for testing, caution even on unplugged devices as capacitors can hold a lethal voltage, a long comb or toothbrush can be used to release that energy but may take several seconds or longer to dissapate.
Good luck and dont get electrocuted but is a fun challenge to fix your own TV but may take time to examine, order and replace components.
Jan 21, 2014 |
Televison & Video