My pool looks like it has a green tint to the water when the slat water system is not running why? Also my ph is low how do I fix this?

it sounds like your chems are off, check you chlorine and PH, I go for a 3.0 to 5.0 on the chlorine side and 7.2 to 7.5 on ph,

copper levels have to be lowered by delution (adding more water)
your daughters hair rinse with lrmon juice the reason this probably happened your PH and alkalinity are both probably low PH should be between 7.2 and 7.6 alkalinity shouls be between 80 and 120 if un aware of pool chemistry take water to a professional

You don't mention the size of the pool. If this is a above ground small pool ... dump the water, clean the liner and refill it. Remove the metal with a sequestering agent. Get the alkalinity correct. Get the pH correct then add the salt to 3200 ppm.

Chlorine kills algae. Are you sure it is algae and not metal in the water?

pH should be 7.2 to 7.6. Alkalinity should be 100. If a gunnite pool, the calcium should be 300. Salt should be 3200. Cyanuratic acid should be 50+ if this pool is outside (not indoors).

What to do. If this is a big pool, and you are sure this is not metal in the water, I would super chlorinate the pool - take it to 20 or so ppm. Run the filter for at least 24 hours. Watch the pressure ... you will be filtering out a lot of stuff.

Let me know what happens ...

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pH will always rise over time when using a salt generator. You'll need to periodically add acid to counteract this affect. As far as low chlorine levels try running the system longer...An average pools circulation system is setup to turn over the pool water once in about 8 hours. Running your system longer should lead to a higher chlorine residual and overall cleaner water.

John

The first thing you do when you put a significant amount of new water in a pool is remove the metal. This is best achieved when the CL is at a low point. You must add a sequestering agent to remove the metal. Use according to contailer instructions. After the metal is gone, adjust CAL to 300, get your ALK to 100 and your pH to 7.4 then add CL to the 4 ppm level. Dont dump all this stuff in at the same time ... I would suggest this process should occur over a two or more day time period depending upon the size of the pool. Since you are making CL, you should also consider adding cyanuric acid to about 80 ppm. Most places call this 'contitioner' rather than what it is ...

Since you are where you are at ... continue to run the filter, your water will clear up in a day or so.

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Yes, you can add chlorine. Liquid chlorine will raise the ph a bit. Don't know what kind of shock you are adding, but wait a day, recheck ph level, than adjust.

Salt chlorine generators cause your pH to raise over time. You will need to add acid as needed to keep it within the ideal range. When adding acid, shoot for the low end (about 7.2) so you have room for the pH to creep up again before needing more acid.

As for green water, what is your chlorine reading, if any? Probably need to shock it not only again but an even bigger dose than the first. Shock treatments are not cumulative. If the first doesn't do the job, adding just a little more will not either.

It is easier to explain than to type it all out you can call me at 586-625-2300
we have never had any issues with water clarity
in general I will say you are not filtering enough in normal mode
Mark

high chlorine can cause problems too it will give false readings for your ph and alkalinity.
The most important thing to remeber is that there is a sequence to follow.
First buy a test kit for salt about 11 bucks for 10 tests. you need to have the ppm's at 3000
if it is to high drain 20% water re-fill and filter/curculate for 6 hours then test again. once at 3000 then go for your chlorine it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 with a test kit now with those 2 in line go for ph adjustment ph should be as close 2 7.6 as possible. Ph will cause more problems like cloudy water or algea more than anything else.
another thing you need to realize is that the intex salt system sucks. Once you set it for the # of hours to chlorinate you are basically guessing as to what is needed. Yes there is a guidence chart as to hours to run but it is over kill and lets too much chlorine be generated start with 3-4 hours of generating but remember also that at 4 hours generating that is nowhere near enough filtering
you will need to shut power off get it out of sleep mode and continue to filter
on avberage a pool should be turned over 3 times a day my pool 7000gl and the 2000gph all in one intex salt pump needs run at least 10 hours a day alone without the chlorinator
my pool only 18' so with your total gallons it will be longer
one last thing to consider is that when in chlorine generating mode the filter slows down because of all the electronics. You can not hear it happen but if you put your hand in front of the discharge you can tell

Chlorine generators raise your pH over time. You will always have to monitor and, on occassion, adjust your pH down using acid. Your water being out of balance likely lead to the green water condition.

Check your alkalinity first and adjust it if needed. Once it is stable, adjust pH using acid, then get your pool shocked to kill off the algae. You made need an algacide too but save that for last and only if required.