Use a 2x4 at least 1-3' long. Clear the grass chute so you have unobstructed passage from the back of the mower and into the blades. Wedge the 2x4 longways in through the chute and up against the blade. The other end can be **** up against something sturdy i.e. a concrete block, a wall, etc... (in my case I used my leg). Take your wrench and crank like hell.
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With a cylinder mower the sharpness of the blade is only part of the concern. The fixed blade is like one of the blades of a pair of shears and each "blade" of the revolving cylinder acts as the other.
As long as only grass is being cut (no stones) the blades will last a long time with only occasional adjustment to the fixed blade as per instruction manual.
After much use or in case of damage the fixed blade will need replacing or sharpening. If it is badly worn it will need removing and sharpening by a specialist with the correct equipment but otherwise the light application of a file, stone or a patent sharpener and then readjust the blade per manual.
When eventually the cylinder becomes worn or sustains damage it must be removed and machine trued and sharpened using a lathe or similar.
An accurately sharpened cylinder and a true and sharp fixed blade correctly adjusted will consistently cut paper across the complete width of the blade when turned by hand. A competently sharped and adjusted cylinder mower will cut the thinnest tissue like the finest scissors without binding.
The blades on you rotary lawn mower could well be dull. I does not take to long for them to become dull. Figure about 8 hours of cutting. They are quite easy to sharpen. The blades can sometimes be sharpened on the machine, but it is much easier to remove the blade.
1 pull the wire going to the spark plug off the spark plug (this is so it won't start with your hands in the way. then tip it to one side. but make sure you do not spill gas everywhere. Then remove the blade there is generally a bolt in the center holding it on
- -this bolt of quite often reverse threaded- -
your manual will have any specific information on removing the blade.
then using a file, bench grinder, or a purpose built sharpener sharpen the blade. It generally is only beveled on one side. don't take off very much material from the blade and make sure it balances before you put it back. Make sure it is on correctly, and that the bolt is properly tightened. No way do you want that geting loose
Things You'll Need: Three-sided blade sharpener (coarse, medium, fine) Small flat head screwdriver step 1 Using the flat head screwdriver, unscrew the trimmer blades and remove them carefully. Wipe off any oil, grime or dirt that has built up on them as this may make it more difficult to handle and keep them in place during the manual portion of the sharpening process. Step 2 Separate the blades and re-apply only the moving blade to the tension spring. Then apply the moving blade to sharpener surface and turn the clippers or trimmers on. Hold the moving blade on the surface of the sharpener and apply light pressure while moving the blade back and forth for one to two minutes. You can also lay the blade on the sharpener first, then put the trimmer tension spring directly on the blade. Step 3 Turn off the clippers and remove the moving blade. It should look shiny and feel sharper. Step 4 Remove the guide from the guide blade by unscrewing it using the flat head screwdriver. Place the guide blade on the sharpening surface and manually run it back and forth for about one or two minutes or until it's been sharpened to your satisfaction. Screw the guide back onto the guide blade while being careful to readjust it before you tighten the screws. Step 5 Screw all the blades back on the trimmers and power them on to make sure they've been fitted correctly. Test them on your own hair to make sure they've been sharpened correctly and are set to the desired depth. Ads by Google Best Knife Sharpener Sharpen like the pros. Complete kit w/ 1x30 belt sander. Only $189.00 www.theedgemasters.com Braun® BodyGrooming Tools Try the Braun® bodycruZer? with Gillette® Fusion Razor Technology. www.Braun.com/BodyGrooming Oster ® Clipper Blades Oster ® Full Line Clipper Blades, Animal & Human Oster ® Blades. www.HouseholdAppliance.com STIHL Electric Trimmers Buy it. Plug it in. Trim it up. Depend on STIHL Electric Trimmers. www.STIHLdealers.com Tips & Warnings Which surface you choose, whether coarse, medium or fine, depends on how dull your blades are and how sharp you want to make them. If they are very dull, you will want to start with the coarse or medium side of the sharpener. If they just need a small amount of sharpening, use the fine side. If you've never sharpened electric trimmers before, you may want to visually observe and feel the sharpness of the blades with your fingers before you start to sharpen it. It may be hard to tell if the blades are sharp enough if you don't feel them just before you apply them to the sharpening surface.
You may know the first part of this, but...
Ordinarily, the blades are removed and replaced as follows: There is a small gun-metal colored bar at the very rear, just below the back of the blade. It pushes inward, in the direction of the blade. Push it firmly in and pull up on the teeth of the blade. It should pop upward. You can then remove the blade from the tongue that it sits upon. When you want to put it back, slide the blade back on the tongue, then, WITH THE MOTOR TURNED ON, push the blade down to its seated position. It will click into place. In your case the retaining clip may have broken off. With the blade removed, push that same gun metal colored bar in. You should see the other end of it move in unison just behind the nylon cog that moves the blades when they are installed. Check the tip of that other end to see that the "turned back on itself" rounded portion is there. That's what holds the blade on. If it is missing, you will have to replace the part (the tongue part has to be removed to do so since the retaining clip part is under it, with a small spring holding it in place). A new one can be obtained, I think, at:
You say that you had the blade sharpened. By someone who knew what he or she was doing, I hope. It is possible that whoever sharpened it, reassembled it improperly so that the area where the retaining clip connects is too far toward the rear of the blade (opposite the teeth) and the clip is unable to click over it into place. If you look at the back of the blade, you will see the small slot just about in the center where the nylon drive cog fits to move the blade back and forth when it is mounted. Just below that there is a plate with two tabs extending toward the teeth. The part of that plate (toward the teeth) that has a slight indentation is where the retaining clip clicks into place. If it is not doing so, then either the clip is broken or the blades are not assembled properly. You can try (careful blade assembly is tricky in regard to getting them straight) to loosen the two screws and very carefully move that plate enough (very little should be required) toward the teeth so that the clip will hold. I would make very sure that the clip is not broken before doing that.
Clipper blade sharpeners are availale but the cost of these typically start at about $300 and go as high as several thousand dollars. This makes it unaffordable for home use.
For affordable, professional clipper blade sharpening, I suggest you contact the folks at clipperparts.com
Your clipper moves at just one speed. There is no way to 'speed it up' if it is working correctly.
It takes me about 5 minutes to Remove, Sharpen, and Re-install my chipper blade for my Bolens mc2500. First, If your using a screen or rollers in the discharge, then remove them. Look underneath, and you will see the thick flywheel. Make sure the spark pug wire is disconnected, then slowly turn the flywheel by hand until you see the two hex head bolts that hold the chipper blade to the flywheel. Also remember which way you take it off, so it goes back together the same way. using an open end or combination wrench remove the two hex bolts. Now to sharpen, I use a medium/ coarse honing tool made for lawnmower blades. I clamp the blade to the top edge of my Bolens with a pair of visegrips, then a little oil, and the sharpening tool, and I'm done sharpening in about 2 minutes, and then re-installing, reversing the removel process. I hope this helps.
hi, yes blades can wear out but your sharpener should advise if there is a problem with them. check to make sure the clipper is moving your blades and your blade cannot be removed without depressing the latch. If your are experiencing tram lines with larger blades then it is more likely to be a clipper problem. However if your blades just wont cut i would recommend a new sharpener as it is a specialist area.