Problem shifting Gear shift lever is tight and hard to move even when the clutch is depressed. Is the gear lube in the trans-axle low or is there an adjustment for the clutch/brake pedal thanks gerry

well it is a manual transmission GEN 10 F150
M50D; M5R2; (both used)
4wd?
gee check gear lube levels first or drain and fill it with correct lub.
this is top of box shifter directly to shift rails , good that.
how many speeds is he box? 3,4,5? seems is 4 speed.
the clutch actuation parts (pedal to MC to slave is top failure
so first gear and reverse can not be selected
25 years of shifting can be $1 part on tip of shift lever making the H pattern dead or random and a huge pain.
i have repaired cars with manual boxes , all clutch parts and rebuilt the box every ,all bearings new and synchro, and bad forks..
wish I could watch you but
key off can you get all gears in the H pattern parked?
or is shifter acting crazy loose.?
can you start the engine in 1st gear now or put in to first gear ,key off then in first gear for sure key off start the engine.? and not have car lurch forward. (yes clutch held down)
sorry all I have are questions transmissions have lots of fail paths.
even M/T boxes do but last way longer. I went 300k miles on mine
and only 1 slave cylinder failure and 250kh on 2more cars.
is the MC (clutch only) full of fluid in its Reservoir. if low drops fast
the MC or Slave is bad and leaking fluid.
fix this first if is true MC fluid loss week by weak ,day by day loss
no complaints starting the engine in 1s gear or any gear.
non, and is A#1 TOP IMPORTANT FACT
OR CAN NOT SHIFT TO 1ST PARKED KEY OFF.
THE STARTER IS DEAD CLUTCH NOT DEPRESSES SO TESTS AR LIMITED.
BUT GEE , KEY OFF AND PICK 1ST GEAR , BRAKES OFF
AND HAND PUSH CAR TO SEE GEE 1ST IS WORKING,
BUT SURE WE WILL NOT BE SURE 1ST IS PICKED, IF THE LEVER TIP IS BAD.

NOW THE HORROR, ALL 3 ENGINES USE AN M/T BOX
THE SLAVE CYLINDER CAN NOT BE SEEN
IT IS A COAX SLAVE DEEP INSIDE, (i HATE THEM)
LAST ONE I DID 4WD WAS 10 HARD HOURS LABOR TO REPLACE.
IF THE SLAVE IS ON THE BELL HOUSING SIDE BE HAPPY.
IF You run the box dry of LUBE the shift fork (1 of many) welds and fuses to the gear and cannot ever be shifted again,and yes I have cured those too.
the shift lever bushing is due.
true name
Trans. code M50D; M5R1/M5R2 Manual Transmission, Plastic shifter bushing
this $2 part does not last long, 100k miles or so
and gets beat to deathh in city traffic.
Part D seen here. at the tip of the shifter stick bottom end
it just dies. and shifter H pattern is loose and RANDOM>

see the video fix this cheap bad part., see blue part
https://youtu.be/c82sTBMzito?t=769

if scared of grease use silicon grease as we use on O-rings.
100% safe that is. grease.
now the shifter works like it did in 1997 ,tight
if still scan no get 1st gear for sure idling Neutro
try reverse too. if reverse grinds or balks the slave is leaking
making the clutch dead and engaged full time.

If the shift lever is what is hard & sticky, get some grease & lube the handle at the joint at the trans. ( Maint. anyway) . The right gear oil? Was it doing it before the oil chg ? How's the clutch feel? Clutch, Pressure plate & throw out bearing poss. Smell any burning smells? One step at a time. Good luck

Instructions

1. • 1 The gears on a motorcycle run in this order: first, neutral, second, third, fourth and fifth. When you are moving, shifting up from first gear will skip over neutral and shift you right into second gear. The only time that shifting up from first will get you into neutral is when you are not moving.
     
   • 2 Pull in the clutch lever and tap the gear lever down until it stops. This will signify first gear. Pressing the gear lever down will shift you down one step and pressing it up will shift up one step.
     
   • 3 Tap the gear lever up one click while still holding in the clutch. This will put the bike into neutral.
     
   • 4 Start the bike. The bike needs to be in neutral to start.
     
   • 5 Hold in the clutch lever and tap the shifting lever down to shift to first gear.
     
   • 6 Release the clutch slowly and give it just enough gas to get moving.
     
   • 7 Listen to the motor to know when you need to shift. If the engine is making a low grumbling noise, then it will need to be shifted down. If it is making a high squealing noise, then it needs to be shifted up.
     

Instructions

1

The gears on a motorcycle run in this order: first, neutral, second, third, fourth and fifth. When you are moving, shifting up from first gear will skip over neutral and shift you right into second gear. The only time that shifting up from first will get you into neutral is when you are not moving.
2

Pull in the clutch lever and tap the gear lever down until it stops. This will signify first gear. Pressing the gear lever down will shift you down one step and pressing it up will shift up one step.

3

Tap the gear lever up one click while still holding in the clutch. This will put the bike into neutral.
4

Start the bike. The bike needs to be in neutral to start.
5

Hold in the clutch lever and tap the shifting lever down to shift to first gear.
6

Release the clutch slowly and give it just enough gas to get moving.
7

Listen to the motor to know when you need to shift. If the engine is making a low grumbling noise, then it will need to be shifted down. If it is making a high squealing noise, then it needs to be shifted up.

it seems like your shift fork is in between gears you must remove the shift tower and align all the shift levers then drop the shift knob into the middle being neutral tighten it up and it should be ok but remember the replacement could be slightly thinner then the original and causing this new problem.

Assuming you have a MANUAL (IE non-hydro) transmission ....

Can you shift with the engine OFF? If so, the problem is a dragging dirve belt transmitting power even though the clutch pedal is depressed. Check the adjustment, and that you have FULL travel on the pedal.

If you CAN'T shift with the engine off, then either the linkage is jammed/stiff, or there's an internal trans fault.

If you DO have a hydro trans, disconnect the linkage at the trans and attempt to move the lever on the side of the trans with vise-grips or similar. If you can move it without much effort, the linkage is siezed, if not, then internal trans fault.

Tighten clutch cable until the car would start to move when the clutch peddle is 50% depressed, Before you do that, with the clutch fully depressed and in 2nd gear, start the car and slowly let off the clutch. You may find that the clutch has to be released virtually all the way before the car moves. It should be at about that 50% I spoke about

try this.you have 2 shifter cables.one is select cable the other is shift cable.first put the transmission selector lever in neutral.then move transmission shift lever to 4th gear.depress clutch to if necessary to shift.move the shift lever to the 4th gear position until contacts stop.then you turn the adjuster turn buckle so the shift cable eye aligns with the eye in the gear shift lever.when installing the cable eye. make sure the flange side of plastic bushing at the shift cable end is on the cotter pin side.the cables should be adjusted so the clearance between the shift lever and both stoppers are equal when the shift lever is moved to 3rd and 4th gear. move the shift lever to each position and check that the shifting is smooth.

shift fork in trans is not engaging need to let someone open trans and sovle the issue those trans are not hard to fix but if you dont know how the shift fork needs to be to fuction seek pro help

my daewoo lanos wont shift into gear/s while running even when clutch is depressed all the way