Question about GE Ovens

Open Question

JTP13GOV288 problem double electri, baking items will not rise.

JTP13GOV288 problem double electric oven, baking items will not rise. I've changed my bakingn soda and baking powder so I think it is the oven. Oven looks ok and heats ok. Could the upper element be out and it still work?

Posted by on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Electrolux Icon Mystery issue

Check to be sure your racks are all slid in to the back. Are you getting a error code?

Posted on Dec 25, 2007

kachbibi1
  • 979 Answers

SOURCE: Heating element on upper oven of a wall Thermador Oven

The control switch may be bad on it. If there are 2 elements on the top, they both are not bad at the same time.Check to see if the wires have not burned off the control switch first. Check to see if your breakers are O.K. Turn them both(maybe 3) off and then reset.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • 1170 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel electric oven doesn't heat in Bake mode

Electric Oven: Repairs and Maintenance Electricranges and ovens are generally easy to repair, because there's not muchto go wrong and there's not much you can do. Most repairs are actuallyreplacements, a matter of unplugging the old part and plugging in thenew. Most of the malfunctions that affect electric ranges involvefaulty heating elements.

Caution: Beforedoing any work on an electric range or oven, make sure it's unplugged,or turn off the power to the unit by removing one or more fuses ortripping one or more breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel. If the range is fused at a separate panel, this panelmay be located adjacent to the main panel or in a basement, crawlspace, or other location. If there is a grounding wire to the range,disconnect it. Make sure the power to the unit is off.

Servicing Fuses

Ifthe range or oven is receiving power but doesn't work, the unit mayhave its own fuse or circuit breaker assembly. This assembly is usuallylocated under the cooktop of the range. In some units, lift the top ofthe range to gain access to the fuse assembly; or lift the elements,remove the drip pans, and look on the sides of the cabinets. Inside theoven, look to the back to spot the fuse assembly.


Ifthe unit has this additional fuse or breaker system, components such asthe oven light, the range heating elements, the timer, and aself-cleaning feature may be separately fused.

If thesecomponents or features fail to work, don't overlook the possibilitythat the fuses have blown. To replace a blown fuse, unscrew the oldfuse and install a new one of the same type and electrical rating. Ifthe unit has circuit breakers, push the breaker or reset button, whichis usually located on the control panel.

Replacing Range Heating Elements

Whena range heating element burns out, it's easy to replace. But before youdisassemble the range to check or replace an element, make sure therange is receiving power. Here's what you can do:

Step 1:Check the power cord, the plug, and the outlet. Then look for blownfuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel.

Step 2:Check the fusing system inside the range. If the circuit is broken,restore it. If the range is receiving power, go on to check the element.

Step 3:When the element is cool, remove it. In most ranges, each top heatingelement is connected to a terminal block in the side of the elementwell. To remove the terminal block, lift the element and remove themetal drip pan that rests below it. The element is held by tworetaining screws or is push-fit into the terminal block. To remove ascrew-type element, remove the screws holding the wires. To remove apush-type element, pull the element straight out of its connection.

how-to-repair-an-oven-8.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove a range heating element, remove the screws holding the terminal
wires, or pull the element straight out of its connection.Step 4:Test the element with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1scale. Disconnect one of the electrical leads to the element and clipone probe of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isfunctioning properly, the meter will read between 40 and 125 ohms; ifthe meter reads extremely high, the element is faulty and should bereplaced.

To test a range element without using a VOM, remove aworking element from its terminal block and connect it to themalfunctioning element terminal. Don't let the test element overlap theedges of the element well; keep the element inside the well, even if itdoesn't fit perfectly. Turn on the power to the range. If the workingelement heats, the suspected element is bad and should be replaced. Ifthe working element doesn't heat, the terminal block wiring or theswitch that controls the element may be faulty. Call a professionalservice person.

Step 5:Replace a burned-out range element with a new one made specifically forthe range. Take the old element to the appliance-parts store; ifpossible, take the make and model information, too. This data willprobably be on a metal tag attached to the back service panel of therange. To install the new element, connect it the same way the old onewas connected.

Replacing Oven and Broiler Heating Elements

Electric oven and broiler elements are often even easier to test and replace than range elements. Here's how:

Step 1:If the oven element doesn't work, first check to see if the range isreceiving power. Don't overlook the fusing system inside the range.

Step 2: If the range is receiving power, set the timer on the range to the MANUAL position.

Step 3: If the element still doesn't heat, turn off the power to the range and test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale.

Step 4:Remove the screws or plugs that connect the element to the power.Remove the retaining shield, which is usually held by two screws, andremove the element from the brackets that hold it in the oven. Theelement is usually held in these brackets by screws.

how-to-repair-an-oven-9.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove an oven or broiler heating element, remove the screws or pull
the plugs that connect it. Remove a retaining shield and lift out the element.

Step 5:Clip the probes of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isin working order, the meter will read from 15 to 30 ohms. If the meterreads higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should bereplaced. If the element tests all right but doesn't work, the problemmay be at the terminals. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight atthe element connections.

Oven and broiler elements cannot betested without a VOM. If you don't have a VOM, take the element to aprofessional service person for testing. The problem is usually amalfunctioning element; however, you aren't risking much by replacingthe element without a professional test.

Step 6:Take the burned out element with you to the appliance-parts store tomake sure you get the right replacement part; if possible, take themake and model information, too.

To install the new element,place it in the same position as the old one. Connect it the same waythe old one was connected, using the same screws to hold it in place.Just about all the other components of an electric range or oven(including its door gasket, oven controls, and timer) are virtually thesame as the components used on gas ranges.

Most problems withgas and electric ovens or ranges are easier to fix than you think. Thekey is knowing how the various parts work and when to replace them.

Have a look at these websites to find parts and details :

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/appliance_range_oven.aspx
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/dataselect.html

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

SOURCE: bake element

It may have also Blown the Fuse, to the element, in the stove itself.

Posted on Feb 12, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Why don't top oven broiler and bake elements heat?


we had that problem once. it turned out to be the control switch was broken

Apr 10, 2016 | Kenmore 27 in. Electric Self-Clean Double...

1 Answer

What is a error code F/19 mean?


That error means that the lower oven is not heating fast enough. IT should rise to over 150 in 5 minutes. Check the broiler and the baking coils for continuity. If they are ok then check the radiant heater in the convection fan housing.

May 12, 2015 | LG 30" Built-In Double Electric Convection...

1 Answer

RBD305PDS14 The top oven of this double oven is not baking or broiling. I replaced the baking element and still no go. Bottom oven is fine. Any suggestions?


Perhaps item number 37 has opened (died) killing the circuit to the elements from L-2. Looks like it $35 bucks.
Better verify it is bad before ordering. Now I know the following video ain't a bult in oven but I want you to see how important it is to turn off power to this oven before attempting repairs:
Helpful?b9b7244.gif

Sep 27, 2010 | Whirlpool RBD305PD Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

My Maytag Performa oven and stove top will not turn on (heat up)


When I turn on my Maytag performa using the "bake" function, everything looks ok on the display, however the temp. never rises above 100. I've tried "bake" and "convect", and neither one work. "Clean" doesn't work either. The oven will lock, and display shows that it's heating up, but temp. never rises.
However....."broil" feature works just fine.
Please help.

Mar 09, 2010 | Maytag 30" Built-In Single Electric Wall...

2 Answers

Bottom oven doesn't heat after running self-clean cycle


Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Aug 17, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Uneven rising & baking in convection oven


I repair commercial cooking equipment for a living. When a customer complains about uneven cooking the #1 thing that these manufacturers ask is..... are they turning (180*) the baking sheets half way thru the cook cycle. #2 are they staggering the pans front to back & side to side. It's kind of a pain but, works for the commercial ones.

Jul 24, 2009 | Amana AEW3530DD Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

KitchenAid Oven Temp.- Bottomside of Pizza or Cake stays uncooked


I have a 2yo Kitchenaid oven, and my advice is first, don't use convection for cakes or pizza. Use the thermal oven. For pizza preheat to 500 degrees, then put the pizza on the lowest rack, and bake for 7-8 minutes.This way the bottom browns, and the top doesn't get broiled from the top element coming on during the bake cycle.

As for cakes, again place them on the low rack so that they get bottom heat. I keep my eye on the oven and when the broil element comes on I stick a piece of foil over the cake until it goes off. Otherwise it will set the top and the cake won't rise as much. Even doing that cakes don't rise as much as they did in my old oven, and they brown too much on top.

The convection oven does a good job of cookies, and the broil mode is okay.

I wish I hadn't bought this oven, but I didn't know about the upper (broil) element coming on during the bake cycle until I'd had it for awhile, and it was too late to return it.

If anyone's shopping for an oven, ask questions, and don't get one that maintains the oven temperature by activating the broil element when baking.

Jun 24, 2009 | KitchenAid Architect ® II KEBS208S...

1 Answer

Frigidaire electri-clean oven Model RSE37BAL*5


make sure that the clock is displaying the current time of day
select timed bake
select the temp of the oven you wish to bake at
set the time you wish the oven to come on with the start knob
set the time you wich the oven to turn off with the stop knob

Apr 11, 2008 | Ovens

Not finding what you are looking for?
Ovens Logo

Related Topics:

79 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top GE Ovens Experts

William Miller
William Miller

Level 3 Expert

9047 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

 Fix Your Board
Fix Your Board

Level 3 Expert

310 Answers

Are you a GE Oven Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...