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Re: drier was replaced and new coolant r134a was also...
This may not be the problem now but , it could be in the future. The start device on some models of refridgerator for maytag and whirlpool have been recalled. If your appliance was manufactured in the last 5-10 years you may be having an issue with this component. Mine recently caught on fire at this device that is located near the compressor. If you would like to be a part of the petition for a recall on this appliance contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org
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Buy R134a refill kit from parts store or WalMart. Pressure connection is on passenger side near the A/C drier which looks like an aluminum cylinder about 6or 7 inches high. The kit comes with a gauge and refill instructions, you will hook the gauge up to the port there in the coolant tube (remove the black cap to expose port) and the coolant canister screws into the gauge. Follw refill instructions for reading the gauge, etc. The motor must be running with A/C turned on Max cool with temp setting all the way to cold.
It sounds like you've done just about everything except to check if there is a bad or intermittent wire causing this or perhaps your low-pressure safety cutout switch is possible going bad causing the compressor to kick on and off?
Most likely your system just needs to be charged with r134a coolant. You can do it yourself. Just head down to the local auto parts store and buy a can of coolant that comes with a hose and gauge attached and then locate you low pressure port on you system. It is typically located on the passenger side between the radiator and the firewall on a silver tube. Don't worry you can't make a mistake as the coupler will only fit the low pressure side. When you locate it remove the cap and hook up gauge and can. Start the car and turn the AC to mac cold and highest fan speed. Then open the gauge depending on ambient temperature out side your gauge should read between 35-45 psi. The gauge should also be color coordinated as long as you don't fill until the gauge is in the red. Your good. Then close the gauge, remove it from the low pressure port and replace the cap on the port. (When the coolant is flowing into your system the can should turn quite cold and maybe even have some frost on it. No worries that is normal).
To convert from r12 to r134a freon, you first need to have the r12 discharged into a recovery system by a licensed professional. It is a violation of federal law in addition to environmentally irresponsible to vent this gas to the atmosphere. Next, remove the drier from the a/c system and use a spray can of a/c system flushing solvent to flush the oil r12 refrigerant and lubricating oil from the system by spraying into one of the liberated hose ends and placing a catch bucket under the other hose end.
You will need to purchase and install a set of adapters for the high and low side access valves by simply screwing them tightly and securely on top of your old r12 valves which are already in place.
After cleaning the system, replace the drier with a new one and reassemble the system. Evacuate the system to a sufficiently low pressure using an HVAC vacuum pump and then add the recommended amount of r134a freon and lubricating oil to the system through the charging hose on your combination manifold gauge set. Assuming of course that you didn't have leaks in the system before you began the conversion, you should now be good to go!
Good luck, and Stay Cool!
you really need to service an air conditioner with all the professional tools what are the pressures on the low side and the high side ? what coolant did you put in ? and how much ? r134a will only work if its done right too much and it will blow warm too little and the same thing you need the right amount did you change the receiver drier ? its a moisture filter it only works for about 5 years or once it gets moisture in it then its no good and needs to be changed also most gm's use an orifice tube filter in the high side line it too needs to be checked and cleaned or replaced . if the gauge needles are jumping around the compressor is bad . if the pressure is high on the low or high side over specs = no cold air . hope this helps
The stop leak probably stopped up your cap tube system and the filter drier.You can try by replacing the filter drier, vacuum the system to 500 microns and recharge.The automotive 134a is the same as any other 134a.
things you need(to do it properly) vacuum pump,r134a gauges and leak detection of some sort first locate lowside port connect blue connector from gauge to it (lowside is the skinny hose)connect vacuum pump to yellow line open valve on blue guage manifold. pull a vacuum to less than 30" hg for thirty minutes.close bluevalve on manifold watch needle make sure pressure doen't rise if no change in pressure after 15 minutes no leak.if pressure does rise then you have a leak and need to find it.(cheap/messy way use get a can of 134 with dye in it fill system and let it run look for dye on system usually on pump around back of clutch,unless you replaced a compnent recently then check all fittings and seals.) you will add r134a through the yellow hose.