I ordered BBK full length headers for my 2007 SRT8 6.1L Hemi Charger. Will they bolt up to OEM specs and have 02 sensor slots just as the stock headers do. Do I need to modify anything or get additional parts?

$4.87. No one give the size. It is the size of the socket that fits it. Bolts are measured by thread section diameter not head diameter. You don't say which? 13/14mm bolt head? It looks like the top is stamped 9.8mm which is shaft diameter.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-idler-pulley-bolt-6508247aa

All questions are better served with 'year make model', rather than 'year, cc and engine friendly name'.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+5.7+hemi+idler+pulley+bolt

..

OXY SENSOR IS SHORTED(was)AF (named by Lexus oddly)
THE FUSE BLOWS IF SHORTED DID IT? 25amps blew up?
AND WHICH RELAY, EXACTLY.
both p1135/55 means , B1S1 and B2S1 both front sensor heaters are dead but gee wiz with relay pulled sure they are. dead.
AF heater relay runs both those 2 front O2 sensors
and if either of the 2 short. fuse marked AF heater fuse blows 25AMPS
The heaters are spec at 5 ohms so each heater uses 3amps 6 total paired, and 25amp fuse does not blow.
but if the 2 heaters B1S1 and B2S1, short the fuse blows.
so bad 02 front sensor. or wires to them melted or cut in half
wires on O2 , with clamps missing allow wires to touch 2000f header pipes(exhaust ) and melt and burn up, and then short.
or even burn open.

or put in the wrong 2 front 02 sensors or used the cheap ones
$20 that are hand wired, and wired up wrong.. (done lots but not wrong yet, I'm careful) I run BOSCH only, and or OEM fit
and easy to pop in, the Bosch web site has the Ecatalog to get the correct ones. from them.

https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/07-2010-hemi-oem-torque-chart-5-7l-engine.350795/

is the problem only on a cold engine, hot or both?
is the hot engine reaching and holding 180F or more as it must?>
its running rich
and that is misfire.
lots of causes for rich. the tests are easy in shop with tools.

1. a full tuneup.
2. fuel pressure to high we, use a gauge. (FPR bad?)
3. leaking injectors.
4. ECT failure, scan it and must read 180f, hot, if at 180f hot.?
5. this takes 5 min work on any scan tool (real)
6. map hose clogged. or leaking. the Map sensor must not be blocked in any way to the plenum vacuum. or it will lie and it will run real bad.
7. on a hot engine, the 02 sensors can fail, or is good and the exhaust cracks in the header do that. on mine it did 3 times.

cracks in the exh header, there must not he any leaks in that header (or bad gaskets)
or the 02 lies. , goes to 0volts and then engine runs rich as a piggy. (my scan tool shows this is seconds, 02 flat-lined at 0v.
all cars, with 02 do that. with that issue.
02 means oxygen sensor, the front one, not the rear one.

First you need to get a set of stock body bolts. Then remove the body bolts from the truck. Jack up the body slightly and remove the 3 inch spacers one at a time from between the body and the frame. Then let the body back down on the the stock rubber mount and put a stock length bolt back in.

i presume these sensors screw in if so and you have the exaust off the car ,you could heat the area where sensors screw in and that will expand the metal and they will screw out for you

you will need 16 plugs 8 boots 8 springs and a set of plug wires. remove the air duct and resinator from top of engine, remove all the coil wiring connecters remove the two bolts that hold each coil to valve cover and twist as you remove the coil, remove plug wire next to coil. remove both plugs and replace with new, correct length wire and a boot with spring, install coil and torue all fasteners including plugs to spec.

The Serial/Model number is on the top of the block, between the valley cover and the edge of
the block, near the water pump. It is generally centered between the two heads

I have a 95 Trans Am myself, with a worked 383 lt1 with full bolt ons. etc Your using the factory tune with that setup? While the check engine light might not be on because of the factory tune i would strongly suggest at the least, getting a mail order tune, and if you can, a dyno tune. You're not seeing the full potential of your setup the way it is now. Are you using an aftermarket mass air flow sensor? The stock mass air flow sensor flows plenty for most setups. Aftermarket sensors can cause driveability issues and many suggest staying away from them.
Are you able to scan the computer to retrieve the codes? It's impossible to diagnose the check engine light without knowing why it's on.

wow. a lot of bad information on this site. Refer to a manual for the proper torque sequence. The civic I believe is a two step torque procedure. First 22 ft lbs, than 53 ft lbs.