Dehumifier blows out my electrical switch in my electrical panel.
When the Humidifier is on and starts its cycle, at the point it starts up the dehumifier cycle after the fan is on, it has recently started to dim the lights in my home by surging and blowing by circut breaker. I have moved it around to different electrical outlets and the same thing happens, and it shorts out and flicks my electrical pannel switch. This has just started, and the unit is only 2 years old.
Is it worth fixing or replacing? It's the Whirlpool Gold 70 pint model.
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That appears to be a subjective measurement. Does it cycle off or does it continue to run. What is and was the relative humidity. What was and is the temperature. Ask yourself the above questions and you may get your answer. If it is cycling it is at setpoint. If the room is dryer there is less to remove. The temperature effects the rate of water removal.
compressor relay's purpose is to start the compressor. A faulty relay
can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed
from the lower rear of the humidifier.
Before testing a compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid
an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor,
it must be discharged first to avoid the risk of electrical shock.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover
box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.
Since I answered your similar question earlier and now have more details on what happened. Shorting out the bucket full switch, more than likely caused more electronic problems in the control board.
However, there is one thing you can try. Turn the Master ON/Off Switch to OFF. Unplug the unit for 15 minutes. After the time has elapsed, plug the unit back in, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and hopefully, the electronics will have reset themselves during that time out. Before doing any of this, make sure the bucket' float valve is in the DOWN position.
If the above doesn't solve the problem and you decide you want to replace the control panel electronics go the link below, to find the closest Haier Parts Dealer to you.
The operation a dehumidifier is based on the amount of humidity, the house or room where you have it placed. If the humid level is low and you have the humidifier set on a low extraction setting, there would be little to no water in the bucket. However, if you have all the settings correct and you still don't get water in the bucket, the top 2 reasons for this are: The Filter needs cleaning and # 2 the drain tube or hole is clogged. The solution for cleaning the filter is a no brainer. The solution for unclogging the drain tube or hole is not that difficult. You will need a 12" to 20" long Plastic Zip Tie (or something similar, but no wire coat hangers), that's small enough to go through the drain tube or hole. When you remove the bucket look up and into the compartment that the bucket came out of and you will see the drain tube or drain hole. Slowly and carefully push the zip tie into the hole and continue to work it into the hole until you reach the curve in the tubing. This is the tricky part. Carefully and gently work it past the curve and about 4" more. Then start removing the Zip Tie as you slowly rotate it. This will dislodge any clogs. As you continue to pull it out, be prepared for water to follow it. If you have water draining out, your problem is solved.
If none of the above solved your problem, the condenser unit may be low on refrigerant. In which case, you will need a pro to service it.
A dehumidifier is functionally the same as an air conditioner. It has a compressor motor, which is a fairly high current draw item.
First of all, unless you are well versed in electrical repairs, you should unplug this unit and do not use it. This is a dangerous condition and a fire or electrocution could result.
One of four things is happening:
1) You have a wiring fault in the circuit your humidifier is plugged into. There is a loose connection in the circuit, causing a voltage drop, and the humidifier therefore has to pull much more current to start it's compressor. This is a very dangerous condition, as an electrical fire could result. Try plugging the unit into another circuit and see if it does the same thing.
2) the compressor of the humidifier is going bad and is shorting out internally. Time for a new unit.
3) Many compressor motors use a 'start capacitor' to help the motor get going. If this part has failed, the motor will try to start, but it will not be able to.
4) There is a fault in the power cord or controls of the humidifier. Just like #1 above, a loose connection could cause a voltage drop, making the unit draw high current.
most of these units are standard 110V units. If yours uses 220V (like an electric dryer), then it could have 'lost a phase' which is also a similar electrical issue.