An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: The Craftsman Sim-Pul string trimmer starts and runs...
The larger line is the fuel return line from the purge bulb and should have the nylon connector (funnel thing) on it holding it in place inside the tank so the line won't pull out.The smaller diameter fuel tank line goes from the tank to the lower pipe fitting on the carburetor (fuel intake line). This line has a weighted fuel filter inside the tank on it.
New fuel lines are recommended every so often as the ethanol added to our gas nowadays wreaks havoc on the lines and carburetor as well. Get new lines...cut them long....feed them thru holes in fuel tank...grab with tweezers or needle-nose pliars....put on either the fuel filter or the nylon retaining nipple and pull the one with nipple down to bottom of tank...one with fuel filter can stay long to help draw fuel in the tank (yes, it moves around and is supposed to).
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You will need to remove the fuel tank. The less fuel there is in the tank, the easier it is to do this. Remove the seat, then uncouple the quick release fuel line connection by pulling down on the chrome ring where the fuel line enters the fuel tank; the fuel line should pop free. You might want to place an absorbant rag underneath to catch any fuel that spills. Next, Follow the electrical wiring from the bottom of the tank rearward where it meets a connection plug behind the engine against the frame downtube. Disconnect this coupling and free the wire harness from the bike. There is a vent tube built into the bottom of the tank; unplug the fuel tank vent line rubber connection there. Remove the front and rear fuel tank mounting bolts. Once the tank is off the bike, turn it over on a soft, non-scratch material or pad. On the bottom of the tank you will see an oval plastic fitting where the fuel line and wiring harness attaches. Remove the eight or so Torx head screws and carefully remove the fuel pump assemble from the tank. You kind of have to twist and turn the unit to get it free; go easy. The fuel filter resides inside the tall translucent plastic housing. There is a clip attaching the filter housing to the fuel pump assembly. You can use a screw driver or suitable tool to remove the clip. Watch out or it will take off on you! After the housing is free, the fuel filter can be removed by slowly rotating the housing to free it from the o-rings that secure it. Remove the filter.
Reverse to reinstall.
Use a hooked/bent piece of wire or similar to get fuel line and filter out of petrol tank filler hole
Remove fuel filter from end of fuel line
Remove air filter housing
Remove choke control/ plate from carburettor
Ease old fuel line from carb. inlet. And clean inlet tube if necessary
Gently but firmly pull old fuel line through hole in base of tank
Fitting new fuel line
the new fuel line has too big a diameter to fit through the hole in the base of the fuel tank.
To get round this I heated the end of the tube with a lit match (but a blow torch or gas ring would do) until it was soft enough to fashion into a point- take great care the plastic obviously gets very hot and could burn ***** flesh. The tapered end you form should be at least 1cm long. Allow to cool
Trim off the end of the tapered point if necessary
My next problem was to get the tapered end through the tiny hole inside the fuel tank. To help with this I took the innards out of a standard biro then put the fuel line through the empty tube with the tapered end projecting from where the ballpoint used to be. Push the tapered end through the hole inside the tank.(a torch was useful here to help see inside the tank)
Pull the fuel line through from below the tank until you have enough to push on to the fuel inlet on the carb.
Cut the tapered end off the tube and push onto the fuel inlet .
Cut the other end of the tube so there is enough length to reach all parts of the fuel tank.
Yes there is a filter. Pull up on the fuel line, or the rubber grommet that goes into the tank with the fuel line through it. There were different types of filter used. One is inside a black plastic tube. You can pick it out of the tube with a pick. Another style is located on top of the tank and is of white plastic. Your fuel delivery problem may be air related. The air pump is on the back of the blower motor, and meters a set volume of air to **** the fuel out of the tank and blow it through the nozzle. This air pressure is stated on the data plate on your heater, probably about 3.6 psi. The air filters on the air pump could also be dirty causing the air output to be reduced, and thus low fuel flow. Also check for air leaks at the pump. Spray soapy water on the black plastic cover and look for bubbles, which are of coarse air leaks.
You can try setting pump pressure up but I am not to sure that it will do anything for you either. You have gone over the entire fuel system with the exception of the fuel pump itself. So the pump is next what do you have to loose. I would carefully take it apart inspect for worn parts bad gaskets or seals clean it up and put it back together one more time. If no change start looking for a fuel pump, you have done all of the work necessary for routine fuel systems maintenance. Its a shame that the simple fix did not work. Take your time and attempt a fuel pump rebuild.You can do it, with all you have already done be daring!!
The primer is just a small pump that is supposed to pull fuel through the carburetor from the tank supply line/fuel filter. The filter is supposed to be connected into the longer line at the rear of the tank. This lines goes to the carburetor uppermost port and the lower port is tied to the inlet side of the primer pump. Remove the tank side line from the pump during the pump test to make sure that you are not pulling fuel into the pump from the exit line. Try pumping fuel at this point--if nothing happens, swap the port connection at the pump and try to pump again--when correct, it will fill the tank supply line first, then the exit line from the carburetor that goes to the pump and finally fill the bulb. If you don't get fuel with either connection, then you have a leaking fuel line somewhere as you have already replaced the carburetor. Most saws use a rubber fuel line, not clear plastic. Hope some of this helps!
An auto feed line system will do just that and if too much line is released there is usually a cutter inside the edge of the plastic guard covering the string head. I use a Troy Built head on a 32 craftsman and I unscrew the bump knob ...twist and pull out the spring loaded spool....cut a lenth of line 6-8 feet or so....thread the two raw ends thru the two holes in the inner spool....pull them out until they are even with each other....then grasp each one and hold them side by side and wind them onto the spool in a clockwise manner. This is how I do the string head with a split boom that fits the 32cc Sears Power head (an older Troy Bilt).
Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Section 5.
Unfasten the filter retaining screw and remove the filter from the frame rail.
Wrap a shop towel around the hose connections to catch fuel spillage. Loosen the fuel hose clamps and disconnect the hoses from the filter.
Remove the old fuel filter and replace it with a new one.
Connect the fuel hoses and tighten the hose clamps. Position the filter on the frame rail and tighten the retaining screw to 75 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
1994–96 Gasoline Engines — Except 2.5L
The fuel filter is integrated into the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted in the fuel tank. This unit is not controlled by the PCM or engine vacuum. It is calibrated to deliver approximately 35–45 psi (241–310 kPa) of fuel pressure to the injectors. If the pressure exceeds the maximum of the specified range, an internal diaphragm closes to route fuel back into the fuel tank. This system eliminates the need for conventional return lines from the engine bay and accounts for the name of the "Returnless'' fuel injection system employed in these vehicles.
NOTE: Fuel tank removal is required for this procedure. Also needed will be external snapring pliers and proper hose clamp pliers, such as No. C-4124 pliers (available through Plymouth/Dodge dealers), or equivalent.
Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Section 5.
Fig. 2: With the fuel tank removed, twist and pull the fuel filter/regulator for removal from the rubber mounting grommet
Drain the fuel tank and remove the tank.
Remove the fuel filter/regulator (which is pressed into a rubber grommet) by twisting and pulling it straight up.
Fig. 3: Use snapring pliers to remove the retainer securing the cover tube to the base of the filter/regulator
Remove the snapring retaining the cover tube, then slide it down to reveal the clear plastic fuel tube and its retaining clamp.
Fig. 4: Cut off the old tube clamp without damaging the plastic fuel tube
Gently cut off the old clamp without damaging the tube, then discard the clamp.
Carefully pull the tube off, then remove the filter/regulator from the fuel pump module.
Install a new clamp over the plastic fuel tube and attach it loosely to the filter/regulator. Rotate the unit in the line until it is pointed to the driver's side of the vehicle.
Tighten the clamp using hose clamp pliers such as No. C-4124 (available through the Plymouth/Dodge dealer).
NOTE: Do not use conventional side cutters to tighten the clamp.
Slide the cover tube up to the bottom of the filter/regulator and install the snapring.
Carefully press the assembly back into the rubber grommet by hand. It should be pointed to the driver's side of the vehicle.
remove screws on both sides of plastic housings, remove spark plug, pull off plactic cap on the bottom side of the clutch plate. stick a wooden stick in that hole to keep the crank shaft from turning when you put an adjustabloe wrench on the clutch, unscrew clutch to get other half of housing off to get to the pull rope.