Question about Jenn-Air 24 in. JDB1100AWS Built-in Dishwasher
My dishwasher door won't close. It has nothing to do with the lock out feature that allows you to lock the dishwasher from use. Jenn Air JOB1090AWB. All the controls are on the top of the dishwasher door and not accessable when the door is closed. I can see the latch inside the door and have taken the door panel off to look, but I am affraid to force anything for fear I will break it.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: oven door does not close
I had the same problem. The first time the Tech. came out, put a new hinge in and it held until Nov. 07. ( 8 months ). Then the left hinge brakes when I opend the door and it crashes to the floor. Bending the right hinge and the metal doorliner. Jan.7,08 everything was fixed. On 1/11 after no more then 10 openings & closings the hinge broke again. This time I heard the crack of the braking metal after opening the door 2 inches. It now sits in my kitchen propped-up with a stick, waiting for the repairman. I am sorry I have no solution , but there must be a problem with the hinges. I forgot to tell you that it started with a door that did not close, like yours.
Posted on Jan 18, 2008
The lock motor may have failed. Most often, bending a coat hanger into a hook and sliding from the right side as you move the door to the right,will allow you to release the lock and open the door.
Posted on Jun 10, 2008
It could be as simple as the mounting tabs being too tight up against the bottom of the countertop. You might need to loosen the 2 screws that hold the dishwasher in place against the underside of the countertop, until the latch and strike plate engage.
It might be that the countertop is interferring with the latch or that the door edge doesn't have enough clearance to properly close and engage the latching tab.
If you can't get the latch to engage, it might be that it got bent slightly in the removal and reinstallation. A simple way to confirm this would be to pull the dishwasher out about 4-6" from the cabinet and see if the catch and latching tab line up and engage. If they do, then you need to make sure there is enough clearance around the cabinet edges and at the underside of the countertop. If it doesn't engage, then it is more likely that the tab (male part) needs to be adjusted slightly to allow for proper engagement. Make small adjustments (bending carefully up or down until it goes into the latch without binding.
You should be able to get this lined up with a little effort and have things working again.
Hope you found this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
Testimonial: "The advice got the door moving better, but I appears that the latch is broken and will have to be replaced."
it may be no hlp at all
but ive seen this a few times your problem sounds similar
check the soda milk door sometimes that gets jamed and will prevent the door from closing
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor.
The display board apparently has a weak spot in the design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources)
Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them.
TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.
My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, Using as small a soldering iron as you can find De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed.
If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to email@example.com and I’ll try to help.
Thanks for this site..
Link to Photo sequence of capacitor replacement (Captions still will not link):
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
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