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Atwood 8900-111 furnace lights then goes out before up to temp. It cycles a couple more times like this then doesn`t light at all. I shut unit off for a few minutes then try again and get the same results.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

hotuna
  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: cozy wall heater lights fine then goes out after 3 or 4 minutes

Make sure all the wire connections are good and tight. Next lift off the cover and look for a little thermal disc mounted up by top of the heat exchanger. Most have a re-set button but not all. If you have this ,by-pass it ,see if that solves the problem, if so it may be defective, or doing its job and you have a venting problem. If you don't have this and have changed the thermocouple (was it a copper tube with a fitting that screwed into the gas valve, or did it have 2 wires, that is a pilot generator, kind of same thing) make sure the probe is set correct, with the pilot flame heating the top 1/3rd of the probe. The only thing left is the gas valve.

Posted on Dec 25, 2007

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: room temp is not where it should be before furnace shuts down

Did the installer check the amperage at your thermostat and then adjust the heat anticipator? Or you may need to have the blower time settings changed to suite your needs. Get them back in to check.

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

gear001
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: i have a rheeme 90+ effeciency furnace that will

You Have problem with the flame sensor. You can clean it with sand paper, but most likely it need to be replaced. Your looking around $250 with parts and labor from a Air Conditioning Company

Posted on Oct 14, 2009

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Furnace tries to light but misfires

Check the air filter.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Posted on Feb 27, 2010

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Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Furnace cuts off before reaching set temp.

You can make sure it is not the thermostat by crossing or jumping the R and W terminals (or associated wires) together. This will keep the furnace calling for heat. As it is approaching set temperature, get in front of the furnace and inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean, watch the control module for any error codes that may be turning off the system prematurely.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

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