Question about Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

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Dryer worked this morning and now it doesn't. It's getting power because everything lights up, when you hit "start" the motor hums but dryer doesn't turn. Belt is not broken.

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  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    Thermal fuse has continuity, heating element has continuity. Any other deas?

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. I will need the entire model number that is printed on this unit, if possible. This will allow me to pull up the necessary part numbers and explode diagrams needed. I suspect that the motor may be the likely culprit, but to be sure, you will need to inspect the door switch circuit for damage.I will also instruct you on how to test the motor, as well.

Please post the entire model number, asap...

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

  • 19 more comments 
  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    110.87562

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 06, 2010

    Thank you. One moment please...

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    I took the belt off and then turned the dryer on to see if the motor turned and not only did it not turn but it didn't even hum. There was a click click sound though. Don't know what that means.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 06, 2010

    OK, let's start with the motor. One you have gained access to the motor, there will be two wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. Set your multimeter to the R x 1 setting. Touch each of the meter's probes to one terminal each. Your motor should show little resistance (a reading of zero, or close to zero).

    Now check the ground connection. Place one probe on the bare metal housing of the motor. Place the other probe on each terminal, one at a time. You should not receive any reading on your meter from this test.

    If your washer's motor fails either of these tests, you will have to replace it.

    Now, if the motor passes the inspection, this will lead to the main control board. There are several control relays located on that board(motor control etc..). You can inspect for possible relay damage, visually, by removing the cover and visually inspecting the board for burn marks at the relay section of the PCB. It is mounted inside the upper right section of the units cabinet. The electronic control interface seems to be working fine. no issues there.


  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    I didn't check the door switch circuit because I didn't quite know how to get there but the feel of the switch is smooth and the sound of the switch is good with nice crisp clicks.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 06, 2010

    Ok, sounds good. I am more concern with the motor and main control board. I suspect that there may be damage located at the main board. Can you locate the origin of the clicking noise when trying to initiate a cycle? Was it originating from the main control board, perhaps?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 06, 2010

    I apologize for not mentioning the door switch circuit testing procedure. I will explain it below.


    The door switch assembly may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the unit, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the unit cabinet. When reaching into the unit, be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.Once access is gained, locate the door switch. It typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

    Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

    If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.( for three way switch, the test is the same. teat each terminal as directed.



  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    Yes, the sound did appear to be coming from the board. There's no visible signs of damage like burn marks or anything.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 06, 2010

    Ok, if that clicking is indeed coming from the main board, this will be the culprit. Although there is no apparent visible markings or discolorations, the damage is present. Possible relay failure. The clicking at the board is a very strong indicator of the damage I suspected in this location.

    The part number needed will be W10111606(Main Control Board).

  • pirtles Jun 07, 2010

    Okay, thanks. I checked out the motor the way you instructed and it passed all tests. Do I have to replace the whole board or can I just replace the relay if I can find it?

  • pirtles Jun 07, 2010

    Oh, another thing. You said there were two wires going to the motor. Well, there was more than two but I assumed the two big red wires (one one each end of the vertical connector) were the power wires. Did I assume correctly?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 07, 2010

    Yes, you are correct. The main power terminals are usually a good test point.


    Concerning the board repair option:

    The individual components may be hard to locate. I do suppose if you could isolate the failed component, it should be replaceable. This particular board is listed as a non repairable PCB, meaning the entire board will most likely have to be replaced.




  • pirtles Jun 07, 2010

    Also, when I connected the belt back up and turned the dryer on the motor did hum. Does that still indicate the board is bad?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 07, 2010

    The motor test confirmed that the internal components that make up the motor are fine. This is indeed a board issue(main). Were the test results on the door switch circuit in range?

  • pirtles Jun 07, 2010

    I have not tested the switch. It seems fine to the touch and has a good tactile feel and sound. I just wanted to make sure you understood that the "click click" sound it made on the board was not a continuous "click click" it was just two clicks.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 07, 2010

    I see. The main board should not click continuously. The initial click should start the motor or drying process. There is a secondary click, but it should only occur when the unit reaches its end time or end of the selected cycle(power down). If possible, i would like to know the door switch results. This will be the last isolation move to confirm board failure.

    A bad or malfunctioning door switch can cause the same symptoms as a malfunctioning main board. It would be wise to rule out the door switch. Once you have confirmed that the door switch is indeed functioning, go ahead and replace the main board.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 07, 2010

    Although the door switch may sound good, there may be some issues with contact oxidation or loose wring at the circuit. Use my procedure to help with the electrical circuit testing. This is a very inexpensive part to replace. Lets rule it out before you purchase the main board.

  • pirtles Jun 07, 2010

    Okay, I checked the switch. I couldn't figure out how to get the switch out so I tested it with the 3 wire pigtail male connector coming off the switch. A white wire, brown wire (middle pin) and blue wire. There was continuity with the white wire and brown wire and it did go to zero when I pushed the switch in. I could not get any continuity with the brown wire and blue wire in any position of the switch.

  • pirtles Jun 07, 2010

    I did find the Tech Sheet taped on the inside of the kick panel and, according to it, the door switch test only mentions the brown and white wire, which did test good. It makes no mention of the blue wire.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jun 07, 2010

    Ok, this will make the decision more comfortable to make. The door switch is essentially functioning as it should, which leads to the main board. This will be the culprit.

  • pirtles Jun 10, 2010

    Well, I replaced the board, turned on unit and it didn't work. I immediately got the F01 code.......for Control Board Failure.
    I went back and double checked all the tests and everything else confirmed good.
    Any other ideas? Do you think I got a bad board?

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  • Master
  • 8,619 Answers

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. As everything else seems to be working fine then it seems to be an issue with the Thermal Fuse going bad and needs to be replaced. It is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. Also, often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

  • 13 more comments 
  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    can I check continuity on the thermal fuse? It's just two slide on terminals, right?

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    are you there?

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jun 06, 2010

    Yes still here, you can check the continuity

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    if what I checked is the thermal switch it does have continuity. Does that mean it's still good? If so, where is the heater coil?
    There is two components on the exhaust duct. One looks like it has a two pin connector and the other one (the one I assumed was the thermal switch) has just two fast-on terminals. Did I check the right thing?

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    never mind, both components have continuity. Where is the heater coil?

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    I mean.......heating element.

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jun 06, 2010

    Please tell me the model no# so that I can provide you with model specific information for your Kenmore Dryer.

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    Never mind that either. I found the heating element and checked it's continuity and it's good. Any other ideas?

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    The owners manual has Model 110.8756, 8757, 8758.............I can't find the exact model number on the dryer anywhere......which is kind of frustrating.

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    You still there? Any other ideas?

  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    It's model number 110.87562

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jun 06, 2010

    Seems
    that you are in hurry, the humming sound is from the motor. As you have check
    everything else so it seems that the issue is with the motor nothing else, also
    check that if something is stuck in the blower wheel and as I said if
    everything else works fine then it is bad motor that should be replaced.
    Please
    do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further
    assistance.









    Thanks


    Rylee



  • pirtles Jun 06, 2010

    Sorry, I've never used this service. I did not know the response time to expect. If I can turn the drum and motor with my hand and not hear anything unusual in the blower wheel (I'm assuming the blower wheel is turning when I do that) would that indicate nothing is stuck there?

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jun 06, 2010

    Hey...Thats fine no need to be sorry about anything. You are right its turning so it means nothing is stuck and its the motor that should be replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jun 06, 2010

    Please post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

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