I had my 92 FLHS service last year but was unable to use it due to an injury not related to the bike. It been in storage since, but now I want to use it. I tried to start it up but all it does is cranks 9 or 9 time then backfires. I put some "heat" in the tank but it continues to backfire and foul the plugs. have any recommendations.
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Hi, Dan if your bike has been sitting idle for weeks, months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future use a fuel stabilizer before putting your bike in storage for the winter.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Bike Sitting for 5 Years Motorcycle Views 02 04 VICTORY Service Manual 02 04 pdf Victory Parts VictoryParts net Victory Motorcycles V92C Owner Manual
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Hi Anonymous, call, take a ride or trailer your bike over to your local dealers service/parts department, I'm sure they will be happy to take your Harley Davidson for a test ride if necessary/possible and offer professional advice and assistance concerning your issue. Good luck have a nice day.
Just bleed the brake system. That will take the air out of the system it is a common problem when you let a goldwing sit.
First bleed the front left brake then bleed the rear brake they both work off the brake pedal.
When you are done with that bleed the front right brake with the hand brake lever,
Get a service manual for your wing it explains how to do many services and it will save you money.
sounds like your battery is not charging from the engine. Most likely the cause of this is, a faulty Rectifier. I suggest you charge your battery up, put it in the bike and start it up. Using a Volt meter, check the reading, to see if charge is going into the battery, reading should be about 14V with a little rev of the engine. If the reading remains at 12V, then ther is no charge going in. If you have charge going in to your battery at idle, 13.5 - 14Volts, Then i suggest your battery is faulty.
The pre-2000 models came with circuit breakers instead of fuses. They look like little metal cans that are about 1/2" wide by about 1 1/2" long. When a short circuit causes the current draw to exceed the rating of the circuit breaker, it will break with a slightly audible "ping". After a few minutes, it will reset itself. If the short circuit is still present, it will simply start the cycle all over again.
Now, there is a main circuit breaker. Usually it's under the seat and it's rated at 30 amps. It could have been replaced with a fuse by a previous owner if the bike was purchased used.
Now, at the battery or the starter, you should have an additional wire that supplies power to the entire bike. The large battery cable connects to the postive side of the battery and then goes down to the starter. Your bike should have the Nippondenso type starter on it as the '88 year model was the last to have the seperate starter solenoid and Hitachi starter. At one or the other places, the starter or the battery, there should be a large single wire connected along with the battery cable. This wire is the what I call the "accessories" power wire. It must be connected or there will be no power to the rest of the bike. If you failed to reconnect it at the battery, this could be your problem.
If you will contact me directly and tell me you need a schematic for your '89 FLHS, I can send it to you e-mail. firstname.lastname@example.org
Putting a bike up for a couple years without taking some precautions precautions isn't really good for them but it all depends on the storage conditions. Old gas can coat and clog openings in the carbs, rust forms on the steering tubes, paint fades in sun exposure, gaskets and such things dry out and leak, etc. If you have had her serviced and she runs and rides well thendo not sweat it. Hope you are back on your feet and able to enjoy your bike so get out there and feel the breeze on your face.
Basically you just have a relatively low milage bike that is three years old. If you are concerned about waranty issues (is it still under warranty?) most waranty maintrence requirements are scheduled by miles so you are probably are still okay. If you looking to sell it just tell the potential buyers you got sick and were unable to ride it. You can say I just had her serviced but that is about all you should ethically feel to say. Any buyer should test drive the bike and make their own decision.
I had this problem last year. I was told by a reputable Yamaha service technician that I could "jump" the leads on the solenoid to unstick it. It worked. However, in retrospect, I wish I would have just replaced the solenoid, given that it is a relatively cheap component (~$40 new). Since then, I had the sticking and clicking problem again this past March right at the beginning of the season, and during my attempt to repeat the success, I shorted out the bike because I got careless about what my disconnected wires touched on the bike. Shame on me. So I'd recommend replacing the solenoid.